Blogs

Altair Nanotechnologies Inc. has received a $1-million purchase order for NanoSafe 35 kWh lithium-ion battery pack systems from California-based Phoenix Motorcars for delivery in February and March 2007.

Click here for the complete article.

Honda Sees Mass Production of Fuel-Cell Cars Possible by 2018 - Honda Motor Co. thinks it will be able to mass produce fuel-cell vehicles for the general market by 2018, Honda President Takeo Fukui said in a recent interview with Kyodo News.

Challenges that still need to overcome before mass production is possible for Honda include reducing the amount of noble metals used for fuel cells, improving hydrogen storage and lower-cost production of hydrogen, according to Fukui. [Green Car Congress]

- GM has awarded advanced battery development contracts to two suppliers to design and test lithium-ion batteries for use in the Saturn Vue Green Line plug-in hybrid SUV.

Read the entire article by following this link,
A123Systems-Cobasys and Johnson Controls-Saft to Supply GM with Li-Ion Batteries for Plug-in Hybrid Development Program

Additional articles can be found at - [Green Car Congress]

GM Introduces E-Flex Electric Vehicle System; Chevrolet Volt the First Application -

Powertrain of the Chevy Volt E-Flex Concept. Click to enlarge.

GM has introduced a new family of electric vehicle propulsion systems—the E-Flex Systems—and is showing the first concept application of E-Flex at the North American International Auto Show: the Chevrolet Volt, a 40-mile all-electric range (AER) plug-in hybrid.

E-Flex initially uses a plug-in capable, battery-dominant series hybrid architecture. The E-Flex vehicles are all electrically-driven, feature common drivetrain components, and will be able to create electricity on board (either through a genset or a fuel cell). Regenerative braking will also contribute to the on-board electricity generation. (“E” stands for electric drive and “Flex” for the different sources of electricity.)

We are focused on reducing our dependence on petroleum—today we are 98% dependent [and] we don’t think that is a good business strategy at all.

—Beth Lowery, GM VP Energy and Environment

There has been some speculation in the press that perhaps this is a publicity stunt on our part. This is not a publicity stunt, nor is it a science fair project. This is something that we have been working on for close to a year.

—Jon Lauckner, GM VP Global Program Management

GM is developing the E-Flex System in parallel to its mechanical hybrid efforts—including the development of the Saturn VUE Green Line two-mode plug-in hybrid (earlier post), for which GM just awarded lithium-ion battery contracts (earlier post)—as well as its ongoing fuel-cell vehicle development efforts.

In its evolving taxonomy of offerings, GM refers to its existing portfolio of hybrids as “mechanical hybrids”—i.e., the engine provides mechanical drive power in addition to the electric drive power.

There is tremendous synergy between the fuel cell vehicle program and the E-Flex program—Nick Zielinski is the chief engineer for the fuel cell program and the Volt Concept, as one example.

Furthermore, GM leveraged its experience with the EV1 in the design of both the E-Flex System and the Volt. The use of the range extender in the Volt design, for example, originated with feedback from EV1 customers about not wanting to have to plan their lives around the next charge, according to Tony Posawatz, GM Vehicle Line Director.

GM envisions a range of genset options for the E-Flex vehicles, including engines optimized to run on E85 or E100 and biodiesel.

The Chevrolet Volt.

The Chevrolet Volt. GM chose its Global Compact vehicle architecture (Cobalt-sized) for its first E-Flex application, the Chevrolet Volt.

The Volt uses the same electric motor as used in the Equinox Fuel Cell vehicle in its electric powertrain: a 120 kW peak machine that develops 320 Nm (236 lb-ft) of torque.

The Volt will use a 16 kWh lithium-ion battery pack that delivers 136 kW of peak power. Plug-in charging is designed for the home (110V, 15 amps) and will take between 6 to 6.5 hours.

The Volt can support all-electric mode from 0 to its top speed of 100 mph (with bursts to 120 mph). Acceleration from 0 to 60 mph takes 8 to 8.5 seconds. The basic operating strategy is to run the vehicle in all-electric mode until the state-of-charge (SOC) of the battery reaches 30%—that strategy delivers approximately a 40-mile range.

The 53 kW motor generator set (genset) allows the on-the-fly recharging of the battery. The genset in the current Volt concept uses a 1-liter, 3-cylinder, turbocharged engine.

You can drive at a continuous 70 mph, and the generator will not be on continuously. At 100 mph,the genset can maintain the charge in the battery and the speed of the vehicle. There are no compromises for the customers in the vehicle.

—Nick Zielinski, chief engineer

The Volt concept configuration features a 12-gallon fuel capacity, giving the vehicle a total driving range of around 640 miles—which works out to a nominal gasoline fuel efficiency of about 50 miles per gallon. (Presumably range would increase with a diesel variant.)

The less one drives before plugging in to recharge, however, the higher the experienced fuel efficiency. A daily drive of 60 miles, combined with a nightly recharge to support the first 40 all-electric miles, would yield an effective 150 mpg according to GM’s calculations, for example.

For comparable performance with a fuel-cell version of the Volt, GM anticipates needing 4 kg of hydrogen on-board.

The Volt also features some advanced materials contributions from GE Automotive Plastics, including weight reductions of up to 50% on the hood and doors through the use of high-performance composites.

Actual production of the vehicle is dependent on further battery development, and GM made no announcements about partners involved in the development of the battery pack for the Volt. The profile for the battery in the Volt is different than that of the pack being developed for the VUE plug-in.

GM would like to minimize the different battery packs within the E-Flex family of vehicles. One notable exception to this would in a fuel-cell configuration. In that case, the battery would be smaller, and more focused as power battery first and energy battery second (due to the ability of the fuel cell to produce the electricity on-board.)

However, GM is also clear that it wants to use common systems and controls wherever possible across applications. To that end, elements such as the charging systems will likely be common across mechanical-hybrid plug-ins and E-Flex plug-ins. [Green Car Congress]

Santa was good to me, no coal, instead an Old Man Mountain Red River rack and some Rivendell spec Nitto Albatross bars. Both will make top quality additions to the Blast....sweet! Thanks Santa.

Then back to reality. It's been a long week of waiting for ordered parts. In addition to the clamps for the ebike project I'm waiting for a burner switch for the cook top and a new dash board for the better half's car, oh yeah those don't count here, oops. None will arrive until next week sometime.

I did complete all of my motor mount machining, took a while using only a drill and files but turned out ok. Not exactly laser cut accurate but not embarrassing to show either. That done I decided to take advantage of the nice weather and take the bike for some test miles to see how the street conversion pieces held up. Glad I did as there were the usual issues involved. Can't wait to do this under elationebike power.

First item was the Planet bike Speed Eze front fender. Over bumps and the like it flopped around something fierce. It was mounted as the manufacturer specified with a tie strap acting as the very front mounting attachment. This proved unsatisfactory on two counts. First the movement and second due to my disc brake the wheel sits a bit off center so the fender did not cover one side very well. Back to the garage where I made a L bracket, aligned and attached the fender with bracket, nuts and screws. Tie strap was tossed into the trash. So much for quick R&R capability. Problem solved now, full tire coverage and no annoying flopping or tire scrubbing. I still need to trim the fender brace ends but may need to make further adjustments so that won't happen until I'm satisfied they are right.

Second item was the Esge double leg stand. When deployed and then retracted a few times it wants to twist and will eventually unscrew. This due to the aluminum ribs not being strong enough to bite into the stainless motor mount and keep it in place. For this I'll drill and pin it to the motor mount once final adjustment is achieved.

The small rear stand mount area.

The hardware build up of the Esge stand and motor mount.

The almost final mock up of the hardware build up and motor mounted to frame. Will be finalized once I decide upon a front clamp.

As for the front clamp I'm pinning my hopes on the V saddle clamp, the brown leather belt and some heavy duty shrink tubing. Since DX Engineering had a $20 minimum I went ahead and ordered a couple sizes of resin mounting blocks as a fall back. Just in case the V clamp doesn't spread the load enough.

The next report should be the finalized motor mounting. After that I'll unwrap the controller, levers and wire harness and hopefully get the initial installation completed. I've also identified one more mod I'll need to make to accommodate the elation ebike kit but that will be added in a future installment. (Hint) Lets just say the Nitto bars will mean re-cabling as the current flat bar cables are too short so might as well take care of it and the ebike issue all at once.

In the mean time the good news is that the brown leather belt yielded a few inches to use as frame protection padding and is now too short to hang myself with. That only leaves two potential answers to the multiple choice question.

It has certainly been a memorable week or so. Hurricane type windstorm, the holidays and an ultra busy time at work. All have limited the time I could devote to the project at hand. Then again stepping away for a bit allowed me to get a fresh perspective and whittle away at the issues list.

Check out my proposed solutions,

A quick list of issues follows:

I. Down tube angle does not match angle of motor mount.

Solution: add a .25 inch spacer between motor mount and chain stays. This spaces the mount and allows attachment without bending the bracket.

II. Supplied 2 inch round u clamp is not appropriate for this application.
A. Oval down tube is 2.25 x 1.25 inches = u bolt too short and too wide.
B. Round contact surfaces not a close enough match to distribute the clamping force allowing tube damage.

Solution: I have found a V saddle clamp at a radio antenna supply house that will fit the frame down tube and spread the load to four points. I will now have to increase the size of at least one of the slots in the motor mount to accommodate the smaller clamp, DXE-CAVS-1P. See it at DX Engineering

http://www.dxengineering.com

III. Starting a 3.5 " bolt in the kick stand sandwich is near impossible due to derailer/ fender clearance.

Temporary solution: Move derailer mount further up the seat tube until the bolt is started.

Long term solution: Install a stud in the kick stand and only have to start a nut in the tight space. I can always use the old rubber hose trick to do this if my fingers can't do the job. Rubber hose trick is to put the nut in the end of an appropriately size hose or spark plug boot and use is as a combination extension and universal joint. Start and tighten the nut as much as possible, then pull off the boot or rubber hose. Finish tightening with the appropriate wrench.

IV. The motor mount must be cut or mounted farther forward than designed for.
A. Forward mounting would be best as I may want to transfer the mount to a regular frame in the future.
1. Forward mounting also gives more leeway in alignment due to added chain length.
a. Added required chain length means the supplied drive chain will not fit, it's just too short.

Solution: Using the spacer I can install the mount to full forward position and no cutting. This will of course mean chain adjustment will have to be made mostly by adding full or half links.

V. The kick stand mounting slot on the bracket is off center to align with a stock frame kick stand mounting tab. I need a slot in the center of the bracket to match up with my Esge stand and allow it to clear the rear tire and not stick out so far as to interfere with the crank arm.

Solution: Drill a hole in the center of the bracket making the slot L shaped. Since I am planning on adjusting the drive chain mostly by adding links enlarging the entire slot will not be necessary.

As I stated when first starting, I don't have access to a machine shop so all of my motor mount modifications will be made with a hand electric drill motor and/or file. I this proves unsatisfactory the purchase of a cheapo electric die grinder will be in order.

In the mean time I'll get some pictures processed, ( not in possession of a digital camera yet ) posted and collect the necessary stuff to move on to the mount installation. This will include ordering the clamp from DX Engineering so it will be a bit. Plenty of time to drill and file on the mount.

Chapter V will be my pictures mostly, if I can get them to post. If not Board Moderator has offered an assist so it will get done. I took a roll already but got a bit carried away with the side lighting, back drops and shadow effects. In other words they stunk, I'll do it again, hopefully right this time.

As always any comments are quite welcome. :)

Happy New Year a bit early.

Trip 16.7 miles at 15.5 mph average in 1hr 30mins at assist level 4 and pedaled to assist motor. The Bionx kit performed great up the hills that would normally exhaust me at the end of the ride on a non assisted bicycle. While non assisted bicycles were traveling up the steep hills at about 4-5 mph, I was able to climb the hills at 8 mph without pedaling and as high as 14 mph with brisk pedaling. I tackled the steepest hills I could find in Palos Verdes. I found that most recreational bicyclists avoided these hills and the higher I rode the better the views. At the end of the trip, I still had half a charge left on the battery indicator. attached are the views of the test ride.

What's the brown leather belt for? Multiple choice test later in this entry.

Did my initial test fit of the motor mount and as expected the odd frame geometry is supplying more challenges.

A quick list of issues follows:

I. Down tube angle does not match angle of motor mount.

II. Supplied 2 inch round u clamp is not appropriate for this application.
A. Oval down tube is 2.25 x 1.25 inches = u bolt too short and too wide.
B. Round contact surfaces not a close enough match to distribute the clamping force allowing tube damage.

III. Starting a 3.5 " bolt in the kick stand sandwich is near impossible due to derailer/ fender clearance.

IV. The motor mount must be cut or mounted farther forward than designed for.
A. Forward mounting would be best as I may want to transfer the mount to a regular frame in the future.
1. Forward mounting also gives more leeway in alignment due to added chain length.
a. Added required chain length means the supplied drive chain will not fit, it's just too short.

V. The kick stand mounting slot on the bracket is off center to align with a stock frame kick stand mounting tab. I need a slot in the center of the bracket to match up with my Esge stand and allow it to clear the rear tire and not stick out so far as to interfere with the crank arm.

I am slowly working these issues and hunting down appropriate components from some interesting sources, especially a replacement for the u clamp.

The holidays and some domocile damage from that nasty wind storm that blew through the Pacific Northwest last night are reducing the amount of time I can dedicate to the project currently. So bear with me as I plod through this. Like I said I am shooting for a Spring completion including debug and upgrades.

As a side note I have been in contact with Allan and am happy to announce that he will be contributing to this blog as I progress. He will add some comments related to his thinking when designing this product and keep us informed of planned upgrades and needed improvements.

I'll continue to give my accounting of the installation on this odd ball frame and won't pull any punches delivering an honest accounting warts and all.

As for that brown belt, multiple choice question.

What did I buy it for?

1. I'll be using it to hang myself if this doesn't work out.
2. I've lost so much weight I needed a new one.
3. Leather would make a great frame protecting surface under any clamps and my bike is brown or better known by it's official Ford color name "Dirt".

Hello all,

After a lot of hanging around the forums and generally annoying the bejesus out of all the experienced guys here i'm finally taking the plunge by buying most of my setup tomorrow!!!! hurragh!!!
As most of you know i'm going to try to convert the fs mtb i currently have to 20" wheels and run it at 72v35a.
All of my kit will be coming from Mark at teamhybrid in the UK as this is where i'm based and i have opted for the very impressive puma motor (rear wheel) and two of those lovely but expensive lithium polymer 36v15ah batteries and a crystalyte 36-72v controller :)
My project is a little different to most of the bikes i have seen in that it will only be for off road use, mostly forest trails and singletrack so i am expecting more issues to overcome than a road user,that said i guess we will see if an electric bike can really cut it off road!!
i will blog my progress as to help anyone who is interested in this type of setup and to show that even an inexperienced/first time ebiker is capable of building a pretty good machine with the help of the guys found on this forum (big thank you to all of you who have helped me thus far).
I have attached the original concept picture i hacked together in paint - it's no picasso but this is what i intend to build and if the kit proves it's worth (please god) i will get a more specialised frame/forks etc to improve ground clearence and a few other issues i forsee.If my whole project falls flat on it's face then some of you guys who are UK based are going to be getting some real bargains on spares!!!! lol
Special thanks goes out to Knoxie,Buzzz,Dom,Steve and xyster for all you patience and help.
Wish me luck fellas - dicanio's bike is born!!!!!

Well, all the components and tools arrived from Harris yesterday. Order was complete including the grade 25 bearings. It came well packaged and everything was as advertised. I'll be ordering from them again if my LBS doesn't have what I need.

The crank removal went smoothly thanks to getting the specialty tools. Specifically the Shimano lock ring socket and crank puller. Both were Park tools and appear to be of a quality level that will allow me a lifetime of part time use. I did run into a bit of a snag when trying to loosen the pedals. A stock 9/16" wrench is too thick to fit between the crank arm and the pedal. Lucky for me I had a thin old 19/32" wrench which barely fit but saved me having to spend another $16 or more for a specialty pedal wrench. If that had not worked I probably would have ground down a cheap 9/16" rather than spend that extra money.

Before removing the old crank and gear set I measured the distance from the outer lip of the BB housing to the inner chainring it was 5/16". I did this to keep the same spacing and help ease the derailer adjustment. The old ring set was a 42/32/22. The supplied ring set is 48/38/28 a huge difference . Should this gearing prove too tall for my hill climbing needs I will convert to an IPS stoker crank and lower gearing if Allan has not come up with that 11 tooth drive sprocket by then. Luckily my derailer is a mid range Shimano MTB so it will barely fit. The cheaper Shimano MTB will only fit a 42 max ring size. I did have to move it up the seatpost almost 1/2" just to get the crank/rings on the BB spindle. The conversion to bearing and cone from cartridge BB was uneventful and again quite quick as I purchased a pin wrench and a lock ring wrench.

After tightening down the drive side crank I measured and the spacing dimension, it was reduced to 3/16". I did a quick front derailer adjustment and have found two more things to address. First the derailer will not drop the chain to low gear even when adjustment is maxed in that direction and second which was no surprise, the chain is a good six links too short. So time to get some BB spacers and pick that 1/8" back up and also a new longer chain is in order.

I don't want to appear obsessed with BB issues but the chain line and proper shifting is critical given that is the drive mechanism for both me power and the E power on this ride. Had I chosen a hub motor all this would be a non issue.

There you have it. Some minor issues that are just time sinks, nothing to panic about but things that will stretch out the conversion time. Glad I'm shooting for a Spring completion including upgrades and de bugging.

Lesson learned, anything other than a go hub is likely to take longer than expected.

One other thing to keep in mind is that I have no real bike wrenching experience. Mechanically inclined with auto and old motorcycle experience am I. Hints and tips from experienced bicycle wrenchers are welcome.