ZEV Motorcycles & Scooters
Hard shuddering and bouncing while braking may be either a loose part in the braking system OR bad shock absorbers (maybe low on oil ?) OR loose bearings.
I do not think it has anything to do with unbalance in the wheel. If it is the wheel the shuddering would probably increase with your speed, and whether you brake or not should be irrelevant.
First check your brakes that nothing seems loos.
Then check the play in the bearings, both the ones holding the wheel and the upper steering bearing (Steering bearings).
To check play in the steering bearing you'd have to put the bike on a center stand or on a jack of some sort if no center snatd is available, and have a friend weigh it down so that the front wheel is lifted from the ground. Then gently move the front from side to side and feel that there is no glitches or jerking (it can be ever so slightly).
The shocks probably needs to be taken apart to check the oil levels I think - and that may require special tools depending on the construction.
/K
I'm impressed. 52km is a nice ride. I'm saddened to hear your problem with shuddering. I went for a ride today and a dumb 4wd cut me off and I literally had to slam the brakes on and I had FULL braking power even with a small rear tire skid right down to 0 as we were stopping at a set of red lights. It was a smooth and powerful brake. I am happy I did not get the step over model now. I have heard others have success by checking the steering head.
I am looking forward to when you get the cycle analyst installed because I'd like to see how many Ah you used on that 52km ride. The best I have done is 80.2km on 46.6Ah.
I really feel sorry for you, your poor bike was banged up from day one.
I will have to download your videos from YouTube because even on my connection it just won't stream fast enough.
Tonight I passed 1,870km without a problem, so I hope yours will one day give you good riding like mine. I am looking forward to your videos to see what your low end torque is like. Mine seems to have less pull than my 750w Ebike. Lol.
BTW, a question for other ZEV owners, and anyone else with the same instrument panel: do you have a lighted speedometer? I have two brightly lit side gauges, and an unlit speedo.
Yes, all instruments are lit. I thought so, but funny thing, I had to go check for sure as after installing the Cycle Analyst I never look at the stock instruments except for turn signals. Actually, you just gave me a great idea: I can turn off the lamps to the three stock gauges. : )
Seems like you just can't catch a break. My ZEV 6100 is still going strong and trouble free; my best purchase ever. Reading your posts makes me thank God I bought the lithium version and that my bike didn't get bashed around like your's. Hope you get all your little tweaks ironed out soon.
Scooters use exactly the same type of head bearing as a bicycle. Remove the necessary bodywork, loosen the lockout, tighten the bearing cone until play is gone, but the handlebar still turns smoothly, then tighten the lock nut while holding the bearing cone from turning.
Scooters use exactly the same type of head bearing as a bicycle. Remove the necessary bodywork, loosen the lockout, tighten the bearing cone until play is gone, but the handlebar still turns smoothly, then tighten the lock nut while holding the bearing cone from turning.
No the bearing may be entierly differently mounted than in a bicycle. I hope it is at least !
You are talking about a motorcycle here - not a bicycle !
Steering head play is not to be taken too lightely, getting a wobble at 30-50mph with a 300-400lbs (including driver) vehicle is not fun!
It could be a loose bearing. In that case you tighten the nut to the specified torque and make sure the handlebars turn smoothly and there is no noticable play as PJD suggests.
In some cases however the steering bearing is broken (likely if it has been loose for a while)
There are usually two of these bearings,at least usually in motorcycles, a lower and one on the top.
Getting to them isn't too difficult, but there may be some bodywork to dismantle. You may also need a special tool, or need to make one up for getting them loose and back on.
I changed my steering bearing on my other motorcycle (a Suzuki DR650) last year. I then had had a problem where the handlebars would "lock" (which could only be felt when really looking for OR sometimes when going into a turn) in a straightforward position - which is usually a sign thet the bearing is worn (which it was).
But if you feel some play when rocking the front wheel back and forth, you should also look at the front shock absorbers, they could be the culprit then (not properly tightened for instance) - it is impossible to judge as a reader on a forum of course, you need to look at it :)
/K
Regarding your November 9 comment, two out of the three Chinese electric scooters I've owned have had a high-frequency handlebar shimmy if ridden hands-off or barely holding the handlebar grips - one of the old E-maxs and my Current C124. It can get fairly severe, but never leads to a feeling of loss of control because it immediately stops as soon as even a light grip is resumed. So, I've stopped being annoyed with it.
I have assumed that it is due to a subtle combination of variatons in the degree of front caster and the not-so-good stiffness that is inherent in a step-through scooter's frame. But my understand is that even some expensive motorcycles in the past (old BMW's?) have had this characteristic.
I agree that if the wobble is induced by front braking then you are describing a different condition and something is seriously wrong.
The wobble I'm talking about appears to be mechanically similar to the shimmying that can often be seen on the casters on a cart or dolly when pushed past a certain speed across the floor. Just the slightest amount of damping (pitting your hands back on the handlebar) stops it. It is nothing like the powerful, handle grips ripped from hands, "tank slapper" or "death wobble" described when one googles "motorcycle wobble".
The wobble isn't actually induced by braking. It's there with no braking. However, braking turns it into a Death Wobble.
You don't by any chance mean rather a vertical or longitudinal judder while braking? That is what my Thunder has, despite perfectly adjusted steering head bearing.
My low-speed Wobble is gone with the heavier and softer winter tires, and is likely to return with the Cheng Shin tires. It only happens with just one hand lightly on the handle bars and stops immediately when both hands are where they belong while riding a two-wheeler. But while strongly braking I get a Death Judder, both vertical and longitudinal :-(
And you HAVE checked for play in the steering head? Bike on main stand, have someone sit on the back so the front wheel leaves the ground, then grab hold of the axle ends and gently rock the axle back an forth, feeling for play... Your trouble must have something to do with play getting more and more over time.
I did that test and got about 1mm of play. I'm not convinced that that isn't typical, but I will check the bearing or have it checked.
OK then, first get rid of that 1mm and then try it out. Ideally there should be no play that you can feel. It is actually advisible to slightly pretension that bearing, as it will naturally set over the next couple of rides. But this is VERY tedious work to get it right, i.e. virtually no play but still light enough for safe balancing even at low speeds. 1mm would be far too much for a stable ride. On my Thunder even just such play that I could only envision after a trance-like session of tugging and shoving on the front fork was too much...
It will be interesting to find out what is screwed up with those forks.
No, the head (steering) bearings should only have to be adjusted once - hopefully at the factory. They are not exactly a bearing that gets a lot of revolutions. Darus' remark about requiring a once a year adjustment is just nonsense.
No steering issues on my 6100 so far. I agree, you should have refused the shipment.
No issues with my 6100, but I've got issues with the USPS. I bought a internal resistance meter and a 130A watt meter to test the GBS lithium cells (for IR and AH) along with a bunch other fun gagets. Everything showed up except for the watt meter; so I tracked the package: Hong Kong, New York, Colorado (15 miles from me), then Atlanta Georgia. What the ?? Last track was in TN. My luck might be running out. : )
Darus' remark about requiring a once a year adjustment is just nonsense.
I must for defend Darus' remark about at least regular checking and if necessary retightening of the steering bearing once a year. You would think there is not much wear on that bearing, but when you come to think of what the bearing must "bear" it will quickly become very obvious that every single bump you ride over, every strong breaking maneuver, all the millions of even the tiniest handlebar adjustments that you do not even think about but automatically do put extreme loads and wear on those bearings, especially the lower one. It is the single most important and safety relevant component of a motorcycle or scooter frame! How do I know this?
I had a little accident with my old ICE scooter that involved a shock load to the front fork. When I road home after that I only noticed some play in the steering bearing that had not been there before. As it happened that was just before the Christmas break, so the scoot happily sat in the garage for two weeks. When I tried to maneuver it away from the garage wall after the break I suddenly found there was substantial jamming while trying to adjust the handlebar accordingly. I yanked it loose again with brute force, having checked before that no cable or other foreign object was blocking the thing. That first ride to work in the new year was a hellish one: without warning suddenly there would be a small jam that I could overcome with willpower, but I never knew when it would jam next, and thus all those tiny automatic adjusments I normally made to keep my balance were no longer possible. It was more of a zig-zag drink-an-drive kind of riding...
After work I direclty headed towards my dealer's shop, and on the way things got worse and worse. I just bearly made it to the shop, completely exhausted from the physical and mental work to keep my balance...
When I got there the next day my dealer showed me what had been left of my steering bearings: the rings that space the balls apart had completely been torn to shreds, and a lot of the balls had dents in them!!!
Soon after that I received delivery of my first electric ride, and found it would judder terribly up front during strong breaking. The stearing head was adjusted several times by my new dealer, and in the end, after I had to drop the bike at standstill after an emergency braking situation that had caused the whole front fork to start jumping up and down like a cangaroo, he adjusted the steering bearing with an ever so slight tightness in it:
- to eliminate all steering bearing play but still light enough for my automatic balancing corrections during the ride
- to leave some pretension for the setting that would take place anyway over next few 100km
During the in part bitter cold winter (one morning was -19°C...) bearing play increased again, and though it has gotten a little less now with slightly above freezing temperatures, it is still enough to require a retightening at latest during the first annual inspection coming up in May.
Ok, so it sounds like sometime down the road I will want to adjust the steering bearing. I'm up for learning how to do that, but how will I know that the problem is there. What is the initial symptom. My steering still feels great and it's been more than a year of riding.




Good to know that people are still reading, and watching the vids. Speaking of which, part 1 of the ride vid is now up, at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0peNDSGpDQ&feature=mfu_channel&list=UL