ZEV Motorcycles & Scooters
Meroller, great idea with the speedo. I have been suggesting the CA-LDP for the ZEVs and similar scooters. I was helping a guy just south of me get one ordered for his ZEV Trail 7100, but the folks at ebikes.ca kept getting in the way (like what happened to Leftie) and trying to get him to buy a different model. But after getting on the phone directly with ebikes.ca, we got them to ship the correctly modified CA-LDP (with 6.8nF cap). I installed it last week and it works great. Having it connect to the hall sensor is such a reliable and elegant solution. The ZEV hub motor has 28 poles. But I forgot that Leftie could just mount his sensor next to the wheel rim. That would be much easier way to get it working considering his CA model. No need to change the cap.
Why would it make any difference, assuming I could get magnets mounted and the cable located correctly near enough to them at the rear wheel? Wouldn't it still reset at 35MPH?
As the CA's standard Reed contact sends just one impluse per passing of the magnet(s) it can detect a far higher speed with just one or two magnets on the wheel rim, than if you use a motor hall sensor that might send 28 pulses per wheel revolution. The CA simply divides the number of sensor pulses per second by the pole number set in the CA advanced settings and multiplies the result with the tire circumfrence set in the CA normal settings. As it can only detect up to 500 pulses per second with the normal C6 capacitor, THAT defines the limit, not a specific speed.
Leftie, you can dowload a pdf Instruction manual for your model of CA from their page. The manuals are almost halfway down that page:
CA page link
The 500Hz pulse limit is from the last table entry in the specifcations section. I do not know what the mechancial limit for the Reed contact would be, but probably not much more actually :-)
I took home two spare NdFeB cube magnets from work that have 5mm sides and glued those onto the left motor lid, first with superglue and then with a nice epoxy bead all around. Rare earth magnets are not absolutely necessary, but they sure give the Reed contact a lot of room to work in. If you use ferrite magnets the speed sensor would have to be placed extremely close to the magnet in order to register it's passing in a dependable way. But you can easily test this as you can hear the Reed cotnact click when it registers the magnet, though it would have to be pretty quiet around you, and the sensor should be held close to your ear.
As my motor windings went up in smoke I broke the magents off of the lid before I sent the scooter back to "home base" for repair and a general overhaul, but the guy there put on two new magnets on his own accord. My scooter is currently on it's way here, so I have not seen them yet myself.
I'm not sure why you think I need a CA manual - I have the one that came with mine.
Because a more up-to-date manual will answer some of of your questions, such as
It tells you to mount the magnet that comes with it on a "spoke" and that's how it's designed. For a bicycle.
For systems like scooters or motorcycles that don’t have spoked rims, a standard magnet can be attached with epoxy to a suitable location on the wheel.
I don't believe it mentions frequency limits.
Speed Range: Up to 600 kph or mph. There is an upper limit of about 500 Hz for the speed sensor input, which can be increased by removing C6
;-)
I think the Cycle Analyst is VERY geeky kind of appliance to start with, so their approach of letting the owner tinker with it never bothered me too much. But I would have been as annoyed as you if they had wrongly advised me. I just researched everything on my own and picked the most fitting package for my needs all on my own, so I pretty much bypassed the possiblity of haiving been advised incorrectly from them.
I think it will be a good idea to have a real scooter expert look at your front fork setup. It is the same kind of hardware as any stinking, fume-spewing scooter has :-)
If you are referring to Jonway scooters then yes, some of those tend to have the same fork and front end in general.
It appears the front shocks used on a lot of Chinese Scooters are a cheap copy of a Taiwanese original.
JohnnyJ and Klas from Sweden appear to have switched from mainland Chinese juddering copies to more solid Taiwan Chinese originals which they got from the Chinese confectioner of our bikes, Mujin "Mountain" Chen.
As for replacment keys, a lot of Chinese scooters use a format orignally from Yamaha. So using the right Yamaha template any seasoned key smith should be able to copy one of your unused keys. I have this template from the Italian key template maker Altuna:
LH: solid Altuna JMA YAMA-22D.P RH: Original sheet metal with LOTS of plastic attached
24mm? That is waaaay too short :-) My Yama 22B is 36mm long metalwise, and my lock needs the most of that. Good luck!
He doesn't use package tracking! Well, how very convenient for him. Suggestion: next time, insist on it and offer to pay for it yourself.
I was too tired when I wrote that. It's 42 or 44mm, not 24. So your key blank isn't even close.
The original key made of some soft sheet metal was 39mm long, but some 11.5mm of those stick out of the lock, and along with the gigantic plastic end it is an ideal candidate for being bent or sheard off while mounting or getting of the scooter. And because this is a known issue I got a set of FOUR keys along with my scooter :-)
So it might be worthwhile to check how much of the original key is actually INSIDE the lock.
I scond plugin's idea of making Darus send a replacement key via a shiper with tracking and paying the difference yourself. Even the Deutsche Post now offers the option of tracking with their packages. Then again that does not surprise too much because they split off their parcel service many years ago and named it DHL :-)
It appears the front shocks used on a lot of Chinese Scooters are a cheap copy of a Taiwanese original.
JohnnyJ and Klas from Sweden appear to have switched from mainland Chinese juddering copies to more solid Taiwan Chinese originals which they got from the Chinese confectioner of our bikes, Mujin "Mountain" Chen.
Can you provide more information about obtaining these improved front shocks? My CuMoCo Scooter, which uses a standard Chinese "maxi" scooter body and frame (the style with the big windshield) could use improved front shocks. The stock ones are basically "fake". They have about the same damping as a pogo stick. The oil in them has no function except lubrication and to provide an adjustable air-cushion-spring (more oil=stiffer) to argument the coil spring inside it.
retry:
It appears the front shocks used on a lot of Chinese Scooters are a cheap copy of a Taiwanese original.
JohnnyJ and Klas from Sweden appear to have switched from mainland Chinese juddering copies to more solid Taiwan Chinese originals which they got from the Chinese confectioner of our bikes, Mujin "Mountain" Chen.
- MERollier
Can you provide more information about obtaining these improved front shocks?
My CuMoCo Scooter, which uses a standard Chinese "maxi" scooter body and frame (the style with the big windshield) could use improved front shocks. The stock ones are basically "fake". They have about the same damping as a pogo stick. The oil in them has no function except lubrication and to provide an adjustable air-cushion-spring (more oil=stiffer) to argument the coil spring inside it.
PJD, as I wrote "JohnnyJ and Klas from Sweden" especially JohnnyJ should know more about how to get those better shocks. Mine came from my dealer who is no longer in business...
Mountain chen is my partner,you may send mail to him mountain.chen@gmail.com and purchase directly
"I think it will be a good idea to have a real scooter expert look at your front fork setup. It is the same kind of hardware as any stinking, fume-spewing scooter has :-)"
Would this be the GY6 scooters, or another designation? I heard some tapping in front on my last ride, and checked the front tire for foreign objects and the forks for play this evening. Negative on both. Even with with no play in the forks at all, the shuddering remains. I did notice that the front wheel doesn't turn as easily as I'd expect. Anyone else notice this? It would be nice if there were an aftermarket front end assembly for these scooters that was of higher quality and rigidity than the crap OEM unit.
Leftie, I was doing a V search and came across your old post. Regarding the front wheel not turning as easily as expected, I had the same thing happen on my bike. I kept fiddling with the brakes until I noticed that the disc was the problem. Then I noticed that the disc was moving in and out with the rim. Took the rim down to a wheel shop and it turned out one of the three wheel 'spokes' had a fracture which caused the wheel to lose roundness. Once fixed, the wheel turned easily. If you have an unbalanced front wheel, that could cause some shuddering in the front end. The wobble wasn't very noticeable on the bike, but when I removed the wheel, supported the axle on top of two cinder blocks and spun the wheel by hand, the wobble was very noticeable. Maybe worth a look.
On my 6100, I'm now past 5000 miles (8400 KMs) per the Cycle Analyst, not the inaccurate OEM odometer. Still going strong.
Best,
Why would it make any difference, assuming I could get magnets mounted and the cable located correctly near enough to them at the rear wheel? Wouldn't it still reset at 35MPH?
Speaking of speed, I did a downhill run (about 10% grade) and got my 5000 up to an indicated 68MPH, or 110KPH. What's the speedo error, IB?