Will a 48v controller work with a 72v battery pack and 72v 1500w motor chinese?
Hello to all, I have a problem that's driving me nuts. I bought a Chinese electric scooter that looks like the Il Bello gas powered, vespa look alike. It has a 72v system and a 1500w hub motor. The thing made loud noises from the back and I thought the problem was the motor at first. So I take it to this guy who works on ebikes and he hooked up a 48v sensorless/sensor type controller to the motor we brought him and found the motor and hall sensors are still good (because it ran quiet with, and without the hall sensors connected). So I buy the controller and take the and hub motor back home to the scooter and hook it up straight to the battery (by-passing the entire rest of the system) and the motor runs backwards and really slow (like 5 mph), not as fast as it ran with his the guy's 48v battery pack. I hear the phase wires need to be switched around to get the motor to run forward and I can do that, but it still runs slow so I am wondering if the controller is too small to handle the big motor/big batteries and if I get a 72v controller will it run faster? The guy said it SHOULD run faster with the 48v controller? I believe the batteries are fully charged as well.
Any help helps
For THAT SIZE motor need about 35 amp battery.Just check the batteries UNDER LOAD (Shaft in wheel and pull on throttle reading each one of the batteries )Even ungeared motor sound like crunching badly' Yeah the new geared motors carry two windings. one of them rolls on a plastic circular track around the hub .They're common for high wattage hubs. If ain't broken why fix it >It is also important controller output wattage .If the bike is too heavy. My humble suggestion CHECK THE BATTERIES APPROPRIATELY . eVERYTHING else WAS OK IN THE FIST PLACE Good luck
I too have a Chinese 1500 Watt scooter. TANK 48 volt using 4 each 20 AH Gel Cell and went up to 60 volt first. Problem number one. After riding it I noticed my motor getting warmer. Maybe even hot! It did go a bit faster and could do a small hill better so it made more power.
Problem nuber two. After charging it I noticed it wouldn't go forward or move at all. Lights worked turn signals worked and horn worked. After about 5 minutes of playing around, it went forwards real good. Later on I found out it was programmed for over voltage cut out at 67 volts and my pack was 69 volt full. So close. So I always turned on lights for 2-3 minutes to take top charge off of the pack. Problem three.. Controller fianlly failed a year later. New controller programmed for 60 volt and still working. Motor still gets stinking hot and able to draw 45- 50 amperes on a 1500 Watt motor. So soon I will blow smoke on rear wheel. I also replaced ckt breaker for it drew more current on battery ckt. Also have fun figuring out phasing wires for my color codes were off on new controller. If I am able to push 40 some amperes on my 60 volt pack and you want to go to 72 volts? I betcha you will be able to suck even more amperes than me? So measure every thing as you go on forward with your project. It is still a 1500 Watt rear wheel motor. Anything more and it has to go to HEAT. check and see of the controller can be set to deliver 1500 watt to 2000 Watt. If it is a 5000 Watt controller it can try to deliver that to motor. Key word is try.
Is it by chance the big Turtle King?