XB600 Motor Died
I was zipping along on my XB600 while entering a busy intersection, when I suddenly realized the traffic light was red, so I hit the brakes HARD. Now the motor doesn't run. I had to push the bike all the way home. The brakes are not stuck and they seem to work fine. Everything else electrical on the bike is working fine: horn, lights, signals, etc. I replaced the blade fuse under the seat, but that didn't help. Any ideas?
YES I HAVE A GOOD IDEA. MY FIRST XM-3000 HAD A SWITCH ON HANDLE BARS FOR BRAKES. It connected a wire to brake light and to controller on my XM-3000. When front brakes are applied it gave a signal to controller and when that happens the controller is blocked from working as long as tail light was on. In other words you can't give gas and brakes at the same time. My switch got jammed and stayed on so I cut my wires. It was a small tiny switch in right throttle kill switch in brake lever. tiny! Soon after my controller burned up then motor and then everything so now it is a stripped frame. I got a newer xm-3000 that now is falling apart and front brake micro switch on it is failing too. This time I removed DC-DC converter and now I am running again. It really has to be KSI key switch ignition controller kill. It jams too easy. If 11 or 12 volt is applied to controller it kills it from PWM or VFD. Let us know if that it it. The only way yo tell for real sure is : http://www.raylight.ca/omnitester.htm and see if drive signal is there after test. On eBay there are cheap versions of Raylight testers?
I figured out my problem, which was obvious as soon as I removed the rear side covers. Despite my best efforts to keep them tight, my rear axle lock nuts had loosened, causing the rear hub to spin around, completely severing all the wires to the electric motor. I bet I'm not the first one to have this happen. Does anyone have a link to the fix for this?
Bst fix is to use locktite, or use nuts with plastic seal, or worst case use dual nuts. One nut to tighten the wheel, the other to tighten the first nut.
Thanks for the advice about the LocTite and and lock nuts, but that doesn't help me fix the severed wiring. I need to know the best way to fix the severed wiring before I worry about remounting the wheel and locking it into place.
AFIK, you'll have to separate the halves of the motor and splice new wires. Fortunately, it's "green to green", etc...
I've never taken the XB600's motor apart, but I HAVE separated the halves of a YongKang Crown 700W motor, and others have done the same to the XB600. There is a LOT of magnetic force in there.
Once you're spliced up again, (or even before), have a look at:
I've got a sketch toward the end of the thread that details some things to do to keep it from happening again. Also, if you ever give the wheel to a bike shop to have them replace the tire, make SURE they know not to place the end of the axle against a hard surface. The wires can be easily cut off.
Personally, I'd go to Home depot, or something, buy a $25, 100W soldering machine;
Buy some cable (about the same gauge as the motor wire), like ~1ft long,
and some soldering,
Nicely cut the wires of the motor and bike, at different lengths, that will prevent short circuit (better than cutting them all at the same length), and solder the wires together with the ones you bought. Then solder the other side of the bought wires to the bike.
Then spray the soldering with paint, and/or just wrap some duct tape around the connection points, could help too.
OR, in my days we used to have things like these:
Nowadays they are replaced by these, which are ok for solid core wires, but not for flexible wires:
The first photos is a "Grubb screw terminal block." Radio shack sells them. They are excellent for high current apps such as the three power phase wires (tin the wire ends before clamping them under the screws).
Buzzer's problem is that all the wires are cut at the same point. It MAY be possible to repair the wheel motor without opening it, by carefully soldering red-to-red, etc for all eight conductors, remembering to slip a bit of heat-shrink over each solder joint.
If not, the case will have to be split for access to a better place for the connections.