Deafscooter Build off "Limo Monster Scooter"#2
New Topic added ==>>> Deafscooter Build off "Limo Monster Scooter"#2
the other topic got full topic and i move to new topic for addon new topic
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Deafscooter added Key Locker to Battery and Neck of limo elecitrc scooter

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Next topic==>>
maybe it will be safer if instead of a screw, you use a clip like my trailer has for attaching to scooter:

this will not come out while under way:

Craig -----Looking great !!!! Keep us updated !!! God Bless :)
Craig,
Looking good - almost finished.
Are you sure on those speed figures? Are those "no load" RPMs? If so, then I'm surprised that the 48V figure is more than twice as much as the 24V figure. I guess those are theoretical top speeds based on no load RPMs? In which case your actual speed is likely to be a lot less (drag at those speeds are going to be VERY significant).
You could use a copy of this spreadsheet and enter your own figures for weight, Cd, A etc:
http://www.editgrid.com/user/jdh2550/CB-72V - it's explained in a bit more detail here: http://visforvoltage.org/forum/2199-required-vs-available-torque-spreadsheet
That won't get you spot on but it would be closer. I started a sheet - and made it public writeable - use it if you want: http://www.editgrid.com/user/jdh2550/LimoScoot - it's got a bunch of wild guesses in and it doesn't have any available torque figures - I did see you did dyno runs so you should have some to plug in, right? :-)
BTW, updates made to the spreadsheet will show up here:

BTW you have a typo in your figures: 44:15 is 2.93 and 44:12 is 3.66 (both ratios say 3.66)
Good luck with finishing it off - it looks great!!!
Craig - what are the RPMs for these three data points:
(a) 462 in-lb / 42.2 V / 625A - 5 seconds
(b) 218 in-lb / 19.7 V / 250A - 2 minute
(c) 75 in-lb / 14.8V / 74A - 15 minute
If you have access to those RPMs then we can add available torque curves to the above graph and calculate top speed.
I've just got to comment on the craftsmanship and design, it looks really great!
I would have commented earlier, but was away from a computer for a week. My comment is in regards to the top box used on the rear of the scooter. The box I purchased was exactly like the one you have and I too found the dimensions to be unattractive. My solution was to simply cut off a portion of the bottom and fiberglass in a wood bottom. It was very easy to do and yielded good results. So, at some point in time, it would be an easy project to get your fantastic scooter looking "just right". Good luck and thanks again to both builder and owner for sharing the project in such detail. I'm sure I'm not the only one who appreciates seeing how this project came about from the ground up to finished product. One more tip form me. For a traction pad for my feet to stand on, I bought a piece of mat for personal watercraft and it works great. I think it is called Hydro Turf. It gives a little added cushioning, has good non-slip properties, and looks good too. Just my 2 cents worth. Skate board sandpaper mat works o.k., but will not last nearly as long and gives no cushioning.
I'm still not sure what a Solenoid does or how it does what it does or why I'd want it to do what it would do.
Listen to Craig. There are some others on this forum who have, in the past, suffered some bad injuries due to the motor getting stuck (fused) in the full throttle position. There were even some pictures of road rash as I recall. Not a pretty sight. A scooter as heavy as yours with a stuck wide open throttle would case you and possibly others major harm!
Your case choices are all better than mine which is secured to the scooter and not than sturdy. Mine is Chinese "crap" box but all I had at the time. I am using mine for a third battery so do not need to ever remove it. I vote for the builder's idea...you can't go wrong with that amount of experience.
The solenoid is like an emergency gas valve at a gas station or circuit breaker on a house. If something goes wrong with the controller that powers the motor the motor can take off FULL SPEED with you on it! PLEASE use the emergency cutoff!!
Matt
If the speed controller puts out too much power, that's what the fuse is for. Right?
The fuse is for overload protection - like a circuit breaker on a house.
But it the controller goes bad it can go full speed and the fuse is designed to handle full power from the controller so it will not blow.
Think of the accelerator pedal on a car getting stuck full throttle with out the transmission or clutch it would be disastrous.
Matt
amp_head, thanks for explaining this to me ... I appreciate it! I'm not trying to be dense ... but if the accelerator got stuck in full and I didn't have a clutch, couldn't I still just turn the key off?
amp_head, thanks for explaining this to me ... I appreciate it! I'm not trying to be dense ... but if the accelerator got stuck in full and I didn't have a clutch, couldn't I still just turn the key off?
No probs. I just hope I am explaining it well enough. Yes, you could click the key IF you could reach it and IF it still works. If the controller shorts out it could bypass the key circuit entirely.
This might make more sense. If you took the wires off the battery and hooked them directly to the motor the motor would spin but if you take the wire off of the battery it stops spinning. Now, if the controller gets welded shut the motor is now hooked to the battery, now you have a run away scooter with you on it. :) The solenoid goes between the battery wire and motor and can disconnect the motor in case of a run away scooter.
Matt
if the accelerator got stuck in full and I didn't have a clutch, couldn't I still just turn the key off?
Yes in a car you have that option. But to counter your remark if you drive newer car you can't turn the key off unless you step on the brake or shifted to parked. Now imagine you driving a car and the gas pedal is stuck to the floor, and shifter does not work. No clutches either just simplify your thinking. If you just step on the brake while engine is on full usually brake will wear and car won't slow much. Now imagine you have a fail safe which remove the gas tank from the fuel line. No fuel getting feed to the car. Yes it will stop and stepping on brake will stop the car.
Over to the scooter. The fail safe switch or solenoid will be like that connection between battery and the whole scooter all together. Even between the controller. So if your controller goes nuts and went kamikaze. You press the failsafe/solenoid and it's like ripping the battery from the scooter. No juice/energy to controller or motor letting you brake and slow down. Much safer than pulling brake while engine is pulling on full strength huh?
BTW any chance craig could weight that scooter when it's loaded with sla and the total package. I can imagine that whole carry system thing is a little futile for this use


















Deafscooter builfoff mock the "hook" to secure the stem for lifting the scooter





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wide size on Steering handle " Y " or " T " style to stem make sure fit inside..
Limit width ( folding down ) to stowed into metro Train or Car's tight trunks
Compare 28 inches or 20 inches ( i can cut off down to 12 inches max on "T" )
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Look at Scooter sterring stem and handles ( customer requested is 36 inches )
From Deck to handle height .. look at Ruler on Deck level to handle as picutre
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Down to folding ( note check on stick out the handle off from side of scooter
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Lifting and carry the Limo Scooter with one or two hands to bring into Metro Train
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Craig Uyeda
Deafscooter
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Any Question ==> Deafscooter@yahoo.com
deafscooter