12v batteries in series with two motors
'Here's something that puzzles me. Any difference? as long as the last battery's positive goes to the positive on the controller???'
Both images are identical electrically, however, I believe they are both incorrect. The wiring is the same as if you were putting all three batteries in parallel, but the middle batttery is facing backwards. If you connect the batts this way, it will short immediately. You need to start on one terminal of battery 1. Let's say that's "+". Connect that terminal to "+" on the controller (after you go thru fuses and switches, etc). The "-" on Batt 1 goes to "+" on Batt 2. The "-" on Batt 2 goes to "+" on Batt 3, and the "-" on Batt 3 goes to the controller.
"I like that road amp-hour meter. Does it have cruise control too? Its got everything else. Gotta have one of those. There goes the budget."
Sadly, no. That would require interfacing the throttle, controller, and brake through it.
There is something like that (Cycle Analyst), but it costs much more, and will only work with certain controllers.
"I have a 12v 2/20/100A charger that I can charge them one at a time, but I want a 36v/3amp charger that I can leave connected when not riding to keep the batteries topped off. That "Vector charger" sounds good. Why would I need two?"
So that you don't have to switch one over when the first battery is done. If you already have one suitable charger and are willing to charge one at a time, then you don't need them.
"So, I will shunt the Lock connector. I dont need it because I will use a 50A main toggle switch to shut everything down at the batteries. That should eliminate a drain on my batteries from the controller being unlocked, right?"
Right. The lock connector is good if you want to have a key, though.
"I'm big, heavy, and dense, but I last a long time."
LOL, why do I get an answer like that every time I say it? Last time, whoever I was telling to said, "Sounds like my ex wife."
"But I have fried a dozen 10A switches over the years drawing 30A thru them. The didnt butn up when I flicked the switch but they did after the switch was on for a while. If the controller is capable of 40A wont it potentially draw 40A thru the main switch? Thats like saying I can use tiny wire as long as the amps increase slowly. More amps equals more heat. Low Amp switches will melt with high amps flowing thru them for very long, wont they?"
Indeed. I think Chas is thinking of relay contacts, which are rated by switching current. I think regular switches are rated by carrying capacity.
Contactors are rated by switching amps because if they try to switch a large current, they will weld shut. Smaller switches that aren't made for powering things as large as a motor don't really have this problem.
"Is this better?"
No. The batteries are gonna explode again.
"The "Power Supply" is just the connector from the controller that goes to the batteries.
But the nuclear thingy sounded good."
LOL, okay. Leave it out then. Or put in a power inverter and install a mini t.v. (I have done this, and it's pretty awesome ;)).
"I just cant figure out how to hook them up. The wire is in a loop. There is no end to attach to anything. At least the fuse never blows that way."
I think you're supposed to cut it and add your own connectors. Very clever way of keeping the wires tidy in shipping, actually.
I have been staying out of it for a while because you guys are answering for me... LOL You are all doing fine with one exception, I don't know why you roasted the 10 amp switches I have been using the same Radio Shack - 15 amp Toggle Switches on 3 different bikes with NO problems for several years. I can only guess your 10 amp switches were very cheap. How ever as I write this post there is one other reason I over-looked till now. The switches I have been using are DPDT. And I use both sets of contacts, causing the switch to be used in a 30 amp configuration. Maybe that is the real secret, I just never thought it through that far before.
Grandpa Chas S.
I was reading that when you switch DC off, it tends to make an arc. In a high amp circumstance they will turn on OK, but if you try to turn them off while under load, it will draw an arc inside the switch, possibly ruining the switch, or welding them shut so it won't turn off. I bought a contactor that I think has a magnet inside that pulls the arc away? So, the question is... just how much voltage or amps does it take to make this an issue that has to be dealt with? Or, put another way... at what volts & amps do you need a contactor instead of just a switch?
Ya! Isn't Inkscape a good lil' program? It will also make vectors from bitmaps in case you need a file that a CNC machine can use.
I was reading that when you switch DC off, it tends to make an arc. In a high amp circumstance they will turn on OK, but if you try to turn them off while under load, it will draw an arc inside the switch, possibly ruining the switch, or welding them shut so it won't turn off.
This might help explain why I have been able to run these switches so long as well because when I turn them on or off the only current flowing is what the controller draws during standby (Throttle off condition).
Grandpa Chas S.
"Okay, I see it finally. Like This???"
"The manual motorcycle clamp-on cruise control should do the trick."
Mine came with an inadvertent cruise control, actually.
I use a half-twist throttle, so it's in two pieces. If you push the two halves together so that they rub together slightly, it will hold itself in place. People wonder how I can ride no handed without pedaling after about a quarter mile, LOL.
"Laugh Link laugh! Its funny to me."
I'll take your word for it :P.