eGO not GOing
When I turn the key in either direction (Go Far or Go Fast) the full string of LED's light up on the "dashboard" and the headlight and tailights go on, but no power. Usually, a split-second after turning on the machine, I hear a click from inside the bike, but this does not happen now.
After turning the bike on and off, I can on a rare occasion hear the click and thus get full power to the rear wheel. Most of the time, though, it doesn't work.
I have never opened my bike and am thus at newbie at the technology.
What's up with this?
The click you heard when the scooter was healthy was the contactor closing. The contactor supplies high voltage (24v) to the motor. The scooter won't go unless the contactor closes so you need to find out why that's not happening.
If your eGo is older than 12 months, I'd look at the key switch. Ego changed the design of the key switch about a year ago because the old ones would do things similar to what your's is doing. The old ones have a silver ring around the outside. The new ones have a black ring. If you have an old key switch with the silver ring try wiggling the key after you turn it to go fast or go far. If you hear the familiar click while wiggling, you'll need to replace the key switch. If you don't hear the click, or if you have the new style switch with the black ring, it could either be your key switch or the contactor.
In either case, I'd call eGo (800-979-4346) and select service and support from the menu. Talk to the technician (I think his name is Kevin) about your problem. He's very helpful and knowledgable. If you have an old style key switch and it's bad, I'd recommend getting the new "black boot" style. You'll need to do a bit of fitting to get it installed, but it's worth it. I went through 2 old style switches before I upgraded and haven't had a problem since.
hope this helps,
I don't know whether the lack of flicker in the lights would isolate the contactor as the problem. I do most of my riding during daylight and I never noticed what the lights were doing when my old key switches were going bad. To tell for sure you'd probably need to get a schematic of the switch and trace out continuity of its various circuits. The switch has several circuits and it would certainly be possible for the circuit that throws the contactor to be bad while the light circuit was still good.
The only other thing that comes to mind is to look over the circumstantial evidence. Since you've already replaced your contactor I would put that lower on the list since I don't believe they wear out very often.
Is your eGo key on a heavy key ring? The reason I ask is they replaced the key switch because the old ones tended to wear out when a key ring (usually with several keys) rode around hanging on the switch all day. Something about the old switch couldn't handle that type of load.
The other thing I would ask is how old is your current switch? I've ridden my scooter daily for a little over 3 years and worn out 2 of the old key switches during that time. If yours has been in the scooter for a while and you ride it often, it might be time to replace it.
I'll just add here that it is the controller that switches the contactor after it checks a few things. It is possible to have reliable power to the lights with out power to the controller. One thing I would check that hasn't been mentioned yet is the power fuse to the contactor. If it has the tubular glass fuse it can look OK and not be making good contact. Best to replace it with a blade style automotive in line fuse.
The controller has an LED light on the front side facing the front battery. You can check it to see what it is doing when you switch on. It should be on steady if everything is OK. If there is an error of some kind it will flash in code. If it's out then there probably isn't power to the controller. Key switch, or the afore mentioned fuse holder are the likely culprits.
Ted is right that contactors are pretty reliable and don't wear out often. The old key switches don't hold up over time or if getting wet often. So that's your most likely cause. The fuse holder has cropped up quite a bit too so it's your second most likely cause. Check your controller LED and if it's blinking write down the pattern so we can see what it has to share.
One thing I would check that hasn't been mentioned yet is the power fuse to the contactor. If it has the tubular glass fuse it can look OK and not be making good contact. Best to replace it with a blade style automotive in line fuse.
Sorry I ment to write power fuse to the CONTROLLER. Not the contactor as stated incorrectly above
Well, I don't know what's going on here, but I was so alarmed by your report concerning parts not being sold directly to the public, that I called eGo and spoke to Matthew. He assured me that I could still purchase parts both over the phone and via the Ego Vehicles website. He did mention that there are certain parts they only sell through dealers to make sure they're installed properly, but the extended range battery pack was the only example of that restriction he could bring to mind. All the other parts remain available to the public.
Have you tried to purchase parts via the website? I did so as recently as Feb. 19 of this year.
I'm a little baffled by this. Could you possibly have misunderstood?
Where on the ego website can I order parts?
I have never opened my machine so I am a newbie to working on it or anything like it. I'm hesitant to do so because I feel like anything I do will be just guesswork. I'm looking for a competent repair person outside the official ego dealer. I've hauled my ego to the Phoenix dealer four times in the two years I've owned it -- twice it was held hostage there for more than a month -- so I'm really tired of relying on them. Especially since, on the last go around, he tried to charge me twice what his estimate was. It took a lot of 'brain damage' on my part to get him down to a number approaching his estimate.
The eGO site has a store where you can buy parts and accessories directly. Check under "where to buy" or "How to buy" something like that. Then click on parts and accessories. As for working on your own bike. It's not too complicated and there is help on the web like the eGO scooter yahoo group. However if you aren't a bit handy in general then get someone else to do it who is. eGO has a bunch of proceedure documentation on their site in the "support area". Basically your dealer isn't very good IMO. They should have common replacement parts in stock (so you don't have to wait for them to come in). Most of our service work is done the same or next day from when it is scheduled. We do onsite repairs for those that don't have the ability to haul an eGO into us. Of course this service is done by an eGO whenever possible to avoid additional carbon footprint for keeping other eGO's on the road.
As for the labor charges IMO it's not something the dealer should have charged to begin with (If you bought the bike from them). I consider it to come out of the markup we earn on the bike when we sold it. If someone bought direct from eGO or another dealer and want's warranty service from us, we provide it with labor charges agreed to up front. A comprehensive assembly and check out process will keep most bikes from needing warranty repairs anyway.
Places to look for a service professional is electric mobility shops (electric wheelchairs), Golf carts are similar animals as well.
It was certainly discouraging to read of your mishaps with the dealer. I bought my Ego in early 2005, when you could order them directly from the Ego website. The nearest dealer to me is in Seattle, over 100 miles west. I don’t know how I’d get my scooter over there if I didn’t do my own maintenance. I was also discouraged to learn they won’t troubleshoot problems over the phone any more, but I suppose that was to be expected. I hope they didn’t let go of Kevin. He is a very diligent and helpful guy.
The fitting necessary to upgrade to the new black boot style key switch involves removing the old key switch, increasing the diameter of the hole, and then filing a notch at the 6 o’clock position to accept a corresponding stake on the body of the new switch that prevents rotation. Any auto repair shop with the proper drill bit should be able to perform the work for you if you brought them your dash board. I did it on my own by removing the old switch, plugging the hole with a wood dowel, drilling a pilot hole through the center of the dowel, then enlarging the hole with a bimetallic hole saw. A few strokes with a file created the notch. I had wanted to enlarge the hole with a big drill bit, but I couldn’t find one to rent, and a new one cost about $35. A hole saw was cheaper and worked just fine. I don’t remember the diameter, but I think it was one inch. Measure the new key switch body to be sure.
Parts can be purchase from the Ego home page by clicking on Contact Sales in USA and Overseas, Shop Online for Parts and Accessories, Ego Parts, then Electrical. The key switch is part number 460-6008 and cost $29. All service procedures can be found under Support and then Service. There is a service procedure for key switch replacement but it doesn’t address changing from an old to new style switch. Be prepared for an exorbitant shipping charge.
Finally, I’d encourage you to begin to explore doing your own maintenance. It’s fun, practical, and there aren’t many really expensive mistakes you can make. And if you’re careful, you probably won’t hurt yourself. The worst I’ve done so far is scuffed my knuckles.
If I ever win the lottery I’m going to bank roll Aerowhatt so he can open a nationwide chain of EV service centers. He’s the EV guru and very generous with his knowledge. Thanks (again) Aerowhatt.
Let me know if you have further questions.
I'm having the exact same problem with a 2005 eGo LX I bought used a few days ago. I'd ridden it for all of 1.5 blocks and 45 seconds when the first time I twisted the throttle back more than halfway, the motor just turned off. All the lights, horn, and charger still work fine, but nothing happens when the throttle is turned now. I've been researching it like crazy and found the controller diagnostic codes on eGO's website. The LED was flashing three times, leading me to think I probably just broke the throttle spring, even though it springs back when released. I can't see the spring moving much through the window in the top of the throttle housing, either. When I hold the throttle back into the zero position, the LED blinks just one time. I ordered a new throttle just in case, but our one eGO service center here in Oregon says they've never heard of a throttle breaking before. Great. Has anyone had any similar problems? The seller won't refund my $900 (good ol' craigslist!) and says "it worked perfectly before you bought it" so I'm gonna do my best to just get it working and avoid a small claims court case. WhenI get home I'm going to check to see which ignition it is equipped with...would that cause the controller to blink once like that? I've been wanting an eGO cycle for years and can't wait to finally start riding it! Thanks in advance!0
Hey, thanks for posting so quickly! Great to know it may be something that simple! Do you know how many times your controller was flashing when the eGO quit working? I can't do much until the new throttle arrives in the mail, but I'm already thinking that was probably a waste of money. If it doesn't end up working I'll try calling the service number and let you know what they say. A couple things I do know: I have the older, silver-based ignition apparently, and all the fuses appear to be intact. I can tell the last owner used a full key chain because you can see where they swung across the paint in an arc. Thanks again - this is the only forum I've yet to run across that covers these things!
Okay I'm so glad that I stumbled upon this forum!!! I just bought the panterra freedom 750watt electric scooter from a guy on craigslist list last week. It was a six hour drive that ended at 4 am to get this. On my way down the ownersaid he was putting the batteries in and it wouldn't turn on. I've had the lights on today on and off with the longest period of a few minutes. Some times the motor will spin once before shutting off. The battery meter and red led work consistantlly thought. I read about the ignition and mine is the silver circle one. I have it all tore apart trying to find lose wires because the guy had it running the day before. I desperatly want to ride this thing!!!! Help! Help!!! What can I try? The lights stayed on the longest after I played with the small white cylider in the front wire harness that makes the bliker noise. My email is firstname.lastname@example.org I can really use some help!!!!!
Lots of time has passed since this post started but I anyway wanted to give my experience with this similar problem.
A month ago I had exactly the same problem, switch on, but I can't hear the relay click to give the power to the motor citcuits.
Opening the electronic dash revealed that the fuse for DC-DC converter broke. That though didn't explain why I couldn't get the click to the motor. Expecting that controller is doing some self-test I tried to troubleshoot more and decided to change the DC-DC converter.
Removing the converter and leaving all what it powers opened I found that I now get the click and the motor can go.
That was kind of a proof for me that the converter was a problem.
I replaced it with the new one and step by step started attaching wires. I got dissapointed that when in the end all was in place I lost the most important click for the motor again.
Many times I was removing the wires and put them back until I found out.
The headlight buld has 2 circuits inside with 3 contacts. One of them, the one which is not used, somehow made a kind of shortcut between the other contact and the common one used for both wires supposed to generate light. That shortcut lead to the outside metal headlight construction and only when the headlight would be screwed back to the eGo's body the controller would "find" out something is wrong and cut out the "click" towards the motor. As I didn't have a new light bulb with insulating tape I insulated the inside of the headlight from the outside body of the headlight so that the shortcut inside won't touch the "earth" or minus of the eGo's body. Only then I could install everything back.
The worst thing in all of this is that most probably the DC-DC converter was fine but I lost it trying to figure out the wirings (there was 1 green wire weirdly connected, or lets say its physical position didn't reveal the logic for it) so I got it broke. Didn't matter as I though it is broken anyway :(
Anyway, weird problem with luckily functional end but just showing that even fairly simple wiring in these devices sometimes could make headaches.