I don't recall ever being able to see the seam where a 26" wheel is joined together.
I noticed this after seeing some strange marks on the side of the wheel which I now believe are rubber from the brake after scraping against the seam and tearing a little bit.
How dangerous is this? :(
It's nothin', methinks. Both my WE rims have that join, too.
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What's actually holding the wheel together then at high RPM, other than the pull of the spokes into the hub?
Oh and what should I used to remove that "bur" on the side which is cutting into my brakes? Sandpaper?
Some fine sandpaper wrapped around a block should deburr it fine. Some folks do relace the hub on to good rims, I admit to looking at the seam whenever I do a preride inspection. One thing about having a pilots licence, I now am even more obsessive compulsive.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
I'd replace those poorly made single wall rims with some Rhino-lite or Mavic double wall ones. That's one of the drawbacks of the WE kits-really funky rims.
The rim will be fine at high rpm. It's a decent join, if not pretty. A little sandpaper work could get rid of it.
And I could have swore these were double wall? I don't have any more lying around so I can't tell right now. :/
The author of this post isn't responsible for any injury, disability or dismemberment, death, financial loss, illness, addiction, hereditary disease, or any other undesirable consequence or general misfortune resulting from use of the "information" contai
I haven't heard of one falling apart yet, but staying straight, wellll....
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
they are single wall, and are way more prone to going out of round than a double wall rim. Forget going off curbs. For some reason, single wall rims are also more likely to have ugly looking welds like that, which catch the brake pads funny and make the brakes pulse under light braking. Crystalite gives you a double wall rim, but not WE.
If I had the budget to replace the rim I wouldn't be buying just the BD36 ;)
I can't even justify getting the wheel trued for $15+tax, I am going to try it myself and hope I don't make it worse (and then ironically need to spend more than $15+tax but oh well)
Don't sweat it. Like you, I have the WE stuff since the aim is to save money in the long run. You will get good at wheel truing soon enough. My second WE hub came really loose. Suspension helps. After I take some pix today I'll be posting on how to modify the cheap steel shock forks to fit a WE hub. Got a new one to play with at a gargage sale. Nearly unridden $150 mongoose bike for $40. This one looks to have more strength in the frame at the seatpost. Now I have a parts store on the old bike.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
My WE BL 36 rim had the same problem or worse,
it has a small gap.
I took some proactive measures, and epoxied the gap,
so it doesnt separate further.
Hopefully that will hold up.
See pics below.
