Electric Tractors GE E-16, E-20
I don't know what category to place this but if some one has EE ideas on re-inventing the wheel, it would sure help. I restored an old E-16 to just motor and contactor and it worked fine 4 speed forward and fine. I experimented with lowering "E" on field and it acted like a series wound motor. I used a Curtis 1205 for Armature and it lasted long for plowing. I raced it up the road to see what speeds it can do nearly stock with 1205. If I can remember 12 or 13 MPH. The lift motor is apparently a window motor and lifts blade via 18 volt tapped off of battery pack. I am not thrilled with tapping pack so I used a PWM for it. I converted it to 48 volt using Marine 29 series batteries and bought a 36/48 volt regulated charger. Then I made a field sense circuit because I lost field once and pegged ammeter. It used three diodes and an opto circuit. Why the E-series of tractors never really made it big is a mystery to me. I can mow a 1 acre hunk of land and plow a lond driveway. It just takes 6 hours to get back to 57 volts.
Now I will convert a big E-20. My tractor is rusting big time and will have to get new body parts soon but in the mean time I want to know what I can do to make it more functional like using quick disconnects like Anderson P products, welding cable vs THHN stiff wires, Ammeters and volt meters. I still have Emergency shut off in case of fire or tip over. My lift motor just gave out and David Cote sells GE parts and he is in process of moving to VA from Schenectady NY area. I think he bought out Bill Gunn stock.
All and all it is still simple but a lot more reliable. I use Forward reverse switch on Motor side for I did it with field and L*di/dt will weld switch in short time. Now that was a real learning experience.
So if any one can figure out what else is needed for a more functional tractor E-mail me or figure out where to post it on VisforVoltage. I don't need Radio or 12 volt stuff yet. But I do have DC-DC for lights from made - in -china store.