XB-600 Won't Run
I was checking the Brake light voltage in the socket and like a jackass I guess I shorted something. I saw a little smoke come from the dash. I pulled the dash apart to check and I can smell burned wires but can't see anything. I thought maybe the dc converter shorted out. I checked the horn and the turn signals and all is fine. The battery gauge reads full on the dash but the bike won't go when I push the throttle and the brake light is constantly light now when I turn the ignition on. Any ideas as to what stupid think I did?
What did you use to apply the brake so you could test the voltage at the socket?
You may have fried the contacts in the switch closed.
If "shorting the brake light" caused wiring to melt/burn, it seems that either someone has installed an improper fuse, or the circuit was poorly/dangerously engineered/executed! There SHOULD be a fuse in the circuit, of a suitable value to protect the switches and wiring from burning/melting in event of a short, as failure to do so could, in some cases, result in extensive damage, and possiblly a FIRE!--Has anything been altered from "Factory Original"? If no changes/alterations have been made, you should notify the supplier/manufacturer of the fact that apparently, circuit protection is inadequate, & possibly unsafe/hazardous.-Bob
If you say that the brake light is constantly on and the throttle does nothing, this is what that means......
You somehow ruined/shorter/blew up the brake switch. The brake switch does 3 things.... well 2 if you dont count the actual physical pulling of the brake cable. The other 2 are.. It signals the brake light to go to stage 2 and get brighter, the last is it tells the controller to SHUT OFF THE MOTOR !!! :) So as long as the brake light is on the motor will not run! I have not looked at the brake lever or microswitch. Depending on what is wrong you MAY be able to get a replacement switch from radioshack, also you may want to try just spraying either WD40 or better yet, electrical cleaner on the brake switches. There might be a relay wrapped up in plastic covering in the dash as well, sort of a 1 relay for both brake levers to tell the controller to shut off the motor etc. If so that relay could be the lone cause.
Looks like you may need to do some multimeter testing.... keep following the wires from the brake switches until you find the problem.
Go ahead and find the replacement part, better to fix it right the first time, than blow something else, or have a larger mishap result.
well I guess you could run it like that. I wouldnt do it forever though, I would eventually fix it. I guess with it being the rear brake, if you give it gas while the rear brake is engaged it will cancel out, but could end up causing damage to the motor. IE, trying to spin and the brake working against it. IMHO, if either brake switch not working... the front brake is the best, that way if you are stopped on a steep incline you can start to give it "gas" (LOL, should we call it "juice" or "power" now?) with the front brake still on, allowing you to take off better.
sounds like the switch itself is good, in one position its open (OL) and closed (0.00) when pressed, I'd keep checking for proper wiring and diode direction. Good luck
Flip the diode for that brake lever and see what happens
Once again.. I have not looked at the switch, but if it is working correctly, just reversed, you should be able to use it. Just find a way to reverse its output. Perhaps internally in the switch itself it overheated because of the short, causing a solder joint to melt and fall down to the next "pin". A microswitch is essentially a push button switch with 3 poles. an input (commonly 3,5,or 12V), an ON output (sends the input to the ON terminal when the switch is pushed or on), and the OFF output (sends the input to whatever is connected to the OFF terminal). in this case the solder prolly melted off the OFF output to the ON output... essentially sending the voltage signal to the brake light when the switch is on, as opposed to when the switch is OFF. When you use the brake, the switch goes from pushed in(ON) to pushed out(OFF). Most of these switches are so small and sealed so they can not be opened and repaired.
I would just get a new switch assy, I would think that it would be at most $10.
Good job fixing it yourself. If you had waited on a part from Xtreme you could have had the same experience as so many others, including myself, have had. And you might get your replacement part next year sometime. Sad to say it but all the Xtreme bashing has turned out to be very true for the most part.
Happy scooting, Scott.
Well I smoked some diodes in the dash connected to the brake levers. 1N4007 is what one says, can't make out the other. I hope radioshack has these in stock. I also melted some of the wires after the diode up by the lever itself. Haven't figured it out why the rear brake lever won't light the brake light now. The front brake does when applied. I need to replace these diodes and see if that fixes all the problems. If the switch on the lever is bad how would you fix that. Would you have to order a new brake lever from extreme?