E-Max

Here You can see my E-Max 90S driving all the winter on snow.
I have Urban Master Snow einter tires on it

VMoto http://www.vmoto.com.au/ has just acquired e-max before Christmas. 23/12/09.

See http://www.google.com/url?sa=X&q=http://www.vmotoltd.com/Download-document/310-Vmoto-LTD-Update.html&ct=ga&cd=Xc0_wyJ8UDM&usg=AF... It downloads a PDF.

You can also surf to it here

Apparently, production runs of the e-max will increase considerably as they're moving it to nanjing, their new scooter manufacturer site.

Got this from a google alert.

Hi I have an E-Max scooter that I need some help with. I don't have any prior electrical wiring experience but my e-max has 8 B.B. batteries that i put about 2,400 miles on and they needed to be replaced. I just bought 8 new batteries (B.B. Batteries EB20-12 12V 20AHr SLA battery with nut&bolt terminals) I also have 3 Power Cheks. The owner before me had done a great job labeling all the wires I basically followed how everything was labeled. However I charged the scooter and it turns on, but doesn't have any power. Basically I need some electrical help. Ideally I would like someone to come over to my house if possible. I will pay you per-hour, but I can provide you with as many details as possible. Any help would be appreciated. Please let me know if you are interested and I can send you my address and what time your available. Thanks for your help.

Finally I changed my batteries to a brand new B&B set.
I thanks everybody for all informartions I gathered.

So while changing the batt set I rewired them into 2P4S (Batteries are linked in parallele and the four pairs are connected in serial)

I had to remove one charging socket (no more needed as batts won't be able to be turned into 2x48V series)
->so I remove B+ and Bx connections on the BlackBox (which is white so I'll call it WB from now).
->the two more wires from the charging socket go to 0V and +48V of the original second serial off batts (B)

I rewired everything using original cables (especially the longs ones form relayB to batts).
Relays are connected together in parallel in the relaybox (below feet).
I used 6^2mm as often as possible bute I had to do somme parts with 2x4^2mm.

Everything can be seen here (in french but with many pictures

Nb: I finally kept Ax connection on the WBox.

On this picture I still have originals batts

Just to say that the current that the 2500w 60v mopeds put through a 41 amp current. This seems to destroy normal batteries very quickly. I have had 3 sets, the originals, cheap batteries, and a gel pack from Haze. The last two packs lasted about 150 cycles only before dying. Could this possibly be the controller? Should I get a new controller?

Anyway I currently believe they simply are not designed to handle that kind of current. I have now ordered some Lithium batteries from ebay V power.

Anyone have any leads on a motor for a Kasea? The serial number on the motor says "48V-2000" so I imagine it's the 2000 watt motor.

I also have a "Wind" scooter which is 36 volts and needs a motor. It was sold by Extreme. It's a brushed motor with the pedal sprocket. It was made by Angell.

If anyone has leads on motors for those that would be great.

Chip Gribben
futurev@radix.net

Just wondering if anyone in the community has any experience with curtis controllers? I know they've been around for a great many of years and hear them highly recommended for car conversions.

Curious to know if anyone has played with regen on the emax as well. Something like this looks like a good fit. Can anyone tell me what parameters you can program via rs-232 on this? Didn't mention that on page.

http://www.kellycontroller.com/shop/?mod=product&cat_id=41,22&product_id=304

Couldn't find the schematics for the emax either in the handbook section. I get redirected to an ilbcnu.org search page.
Anyone still alive out there?

Just looking at the shoddy soldering job inside the controller
assembly, I should have expected failure after 2000 miles.

The bike died in the middle of my way home one
night. I took the controller apart to find an open
pathway on the far right burned open. I repaired this
today and the bike worked again but with intermittant
cuttout. Now it's back where I started. The bike turn on
lights,ticker, battery meter all work fine. Just no throttle.

Matt, you mentioned something about replacing yours
with a Kelly controller. How is this coming along for you?
I'd like to get a replacement that won't fail every 2000
miles.

After having to wait through a heavy, but not unusually heavy, thunderstorm, I was riding home from work when, topping a rise suddenly found myself facing a flooded dip in the road - going too fast to stop. It has never flooded like this before. I was left with no choice but to power through the 2 to 2.5 feet of muddy water hoping to get out the other side before something got ruined.

No such luck. The motor now will not start turning until given an initial spin, thereafter it runs roughly and noisily, at slow speed, getting smoother (nearly normally) at top RPMs. I rode it slowly home (about 5 miles) in this condition - maybe not a good idea.

I dried the wiring connectors and checked for evidence of water intrusion into the controller. It does not look like water got in the controller.

The only fully submerged item was the motor, so my best guess is bad hall sensors - maybe just temporarily until they dry out?

Ideas?

Matt, I recall that you once disassembled an e-max motor? Any tips?

Thanks for any advice.

Paul D.