EV Modifications

I just got back from a very bumpy ride and when I stopped I noticed my rear wheel had bent in badly . Has anyone here mounted a hub motor in a 29in rim and if so what rim did you uae. My second choice is a 26 in rim any suggestions for this size would also be appreciated. Also any info on good quality spokes would also be appreciated.

I am a new member to the EV community. I just purchased a 24v 500w brushless hub motor of Chinese manufacture, and I want to increase the no load RPM and power output of the motor. My plan is to rewind the hub commutators with thicker mag wire using less turns per point than it is wired to now. I borrowed the idea from RC builders who hand build BLDC motors using CD-rom drives. I will be replacing the controller with a Crystalyte 36-72v 20a. I am also considering replacing the permanent magnets with some stronger models. Has anyone here attempted anything of this nature? Any info about mag wire, BLDC wiring, or magnets would be great.
Regards!

Hello forum members,

I am deciding whether a diode/capacitor CW circuit,or a step-up

power hand-wound step-up transformer is easier,and more

practical;I am only needing at most a voltage multiplier for my

electric pmdc powered bike trailer with dual curry brushed

motors-I have magnet wire,T200 toroid,fiberglass tape,some

electrolytic caps,hi amp diodes(Schottky,FAST,hi-amp) so either way it would be practical

to make a decent working voltage multiplier!

I basically want to know which "vm" circuits that the members have

used with good results,and what circuit is more

efficient/practical??

btw,I have uploaded a few examples of voltage multiplier circuits

similar to what I will like to try,although the sytep transformer

core I will be using is a toroid design,and not a split-bobbin/E core

design!!

Thanks in advance for a reply!

I'm modding my controller looking to go from the roughly 15 stock amps to ~30 amps. To do this I'm assuming I need to cut the shunt's resistance by 50%. I could do this by adding a second shunt of a known resistance, but couldn't I also do this by reducing the current shunt's length by half?

It looks to me that I could quite easily bend down the center of the shunt and bridge one end to the middle of the shunt with solder effectively shorting half of it.

Anyone try this? and reason I shouldn't?

Thanks in advance!

Dear All,
I need carbon brush kit for electric vehicle armature. If you have this types parts, let me know.

Rajan Lohani
Managing Director
Jana Utthan & Environment Electric Vehicle Pvt. Ltd.-JEEV
Kathmandu, Nepal

Well get a load of this a e-bike with NOS well thats what it looks like. But how can this be possible on an electric bike?

HA HA HA GOTCHA its just an energy drink bottle but did it turn alot of heads the other day. I went over to a car cruise night on my scooter and was talking to the guys there and they got a real laff from it but people who dont know anything about electric scooters said " Hey isnt against the law to have NOS on your scooter?" or " Holy crap man that thing must fly with NOS"

Ok I finally took the big step and did my own controller mod here are the pics form the deed it was actually pretty easy. As I have not seen anybody do a Veloteq yet. Ok the first pic is the controller
the second pic is the shunt I made
third is the controller before mod
forth is the extra shunt added

The 72V 200AH LiFepo4 Batteries Pack for my EV ,
24 cells 200ah/cell
looks the pic.

on the street in China,
Rarely seen driving the electric vehicles on the street (may be the reasons for China policy, no permission and can not be driven on the road),
I remember that I was driving was stopped by traffic police
I say: Why not let me driving my electric cars?
Traffic police said: you have not received permission to driving electric car?
I said: How ..., I need to apply for

I have a slightly unusual problem. I live in China, and my US employer says I can't have a gas powered bike. I can however have an e-bike. I did have a 48V 500W bike that was ok, except I really want to explore the mountains around here more and it just didn't have the range after climbing 1,500' in elevation. I recently bought a different one, a 1200W 48V this time (and you can hopefully see a photo of it). It runs up roughly 6% grade mountains at about 19mph which is good. But when I put on the extra 48V 20ah SLA battery pack I bought performance gets quite a bit more sluggish.

What do you think about using a 48V roughly 100A alternator driven by a small 2-stroke engine? I know there's no such thing as a perpetual motion machine, and I know there will be some efficiency loss, blah, blah, blah, but all I want to do is to put a constant charge back into the batteries as close to what I'm taking out as possible. I would hope the entire arrangement would weigh about 30 lbs as opposed to the roughly 60 lbs the extra batteries weigh. Does anyone have any experience with this or have any knowledge that could help?

P.S.: My 1200W 48V scooter,with front disc brakes, cost me $612. A new set of SLA 48V 20ah batteries for an extra battery pack was an additional $105, but they may not be as good as the ones sold in the US. The bike is pretty decent quality though and is one of the better brands here.

Thanks,
Mark

Hi everyone,

I've got a quick question that I was hoping that somebody could help me out with.

Next month I want to begin converting a motorcycle to electric. I bought a frame for 200 bucks, and I am pretty sure that it's this guy right here: http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20%20A/Yamaha%20XJR400%2093.jpg a Yamaha XJR 400.

Since it's my first electric vehicle, I am not expecting miracles. I don't care if it has a 10 mile range and a 35mph top speed. For that, I am thinking of using this conversion kit: http://www.cloudelectric.com/product_p/pk-el-m8-a-npx.htm

There are two problems. One problem is that I am a big guy (320 lbs. Hey, I like to lift weights, what can I say?) another problem is that I don't want to drop my life savings into this. That kit looks reasonably priced and since I've been saving up for it, it will be within purchasing range next month.

I've been doing as much reading as I can, and I still can't find anything resembling a weight limit on the Etek-R motors. They say that the Etek-RT is wound for torque and would be more appropriate for a guy my size, but like I said, I am not expecting 100mph out of this thing. I just don't want the motor to overheat and blow up on me.

Could I use the Etek-R provided in the kit or will I have to omit that item, and wait until I can ebay a better motor that doesn't cost 100 bucks more?

Thanks for any advice.