Electric vehicle controllers and control systems
Problems with Mars-etek and millipak controller
Submitted by Nigel Loller on Fri, 11/20/2009 - 09:31I have built a push trailer which has a Mars etek brushless motor and uses a sevcon millipak controller all with system voltage at 36.,100ah. On initial test using pin 2 as fwd direction it ran backwards,ie clockwise! SO I used pin 3 also had to use pin 10 and not 11 for the pot..Main problem now is that it will not run under load I.e on the bike it trips out with 9 flashes but on the bench,wheels up, it starts up and runs fine does any one know what pin 4 (FS!?)does and if it needs to be grounded (like the seat switch pin 5)
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BMS
Submitted by Spaceangel on Fri, 10/23/2009 - 00:21I have a 48 volt LiFePO4 battery pack. Board is smashed. I have Google-ed BMS and Lithium Iron battery packs and can't find a replacement board. I am using a battery charger for charging Ni Cad battery pack till I get to proper voltage. It is battery charger from QST in the 70's and it good for Ni Cad, but Lithium is to be charged with the proper charger Constant voltage tapering current. I just ordered a new battery pack from eBay and hope it is better-er quality. My bike uses a 1000 watt front hub motor and I think it is supposed to use a 40 AH pack but maybe a twenty AH pack will be OK for a short ride. Are all or most battery packs from China using same BMS with lots of skinny wires and three big wires?
I will post my mountain bike pictures on EV page in future after a decent test ride.
"Tricking" a 0-5 V hall effect throttle?
Submitted by ApostateZero on Thu, 10/15/2009 - 20:13Hi,
I've got a Kelly KDS48100 and I need to limit the current to protect my motor. Allegedly it is programmable but I've had no luck programming it. It'll say "sure, current limited to x%" but then not limit current at all. Kelly's help support is abysmal.
Is there a way to "trick" the controller into thinking that I am only going to 25% throttle when I am going to full throttle? It would be a piece of cake if I had a 0-5k Ohm throttle. I have no clue how the Hall Effect works. I tried putting a potentiometer in series with it (0-5k or 0-100k) and got weird results. Either no difference or at some point the controller would take off while i had zero throttle.
Anyone overcome this particular hurdle before?
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Just bought used EVG 24v e-bike
Submitted by cmhitman on Wed, 10/14/2009 - 19:34I just bought an ebike and was told that all I needed to do was purchase new batteries. Well I purchased new batteries and the thing will not run. I am wondering if there are some basic diagnostic tests I can do myself to test: battery, charger, controller... ect.
Help with controller
Submitted by Karbyde on Fri, 10/09/2009 - 13:14I found a Curtis 1205-117 pretty cheap. Will this controller work for an Etek Motor 12-48 VDC? I wish to put this into a KX 125 (or similar) frame. It has been confusing searching for a controller. Can anyone recommend a list of good ones to use? I don't want to spend big $$ of course
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Sevcon Millipak PMAC settings
Submitted by cmdrscampers on Thu, 10/08/2009 - 18:22I have a new sevcon millipak pmac controller hooked up to a brushless etek, and have a couple questions. Is there a master list that someone could to link to me with the default settings of the millipak? I know that they have some in the millipak pmac manual, but i don't see an item list for default values for every opition. Which unfortunally means that i need keep a manual record for anything i change (strangly enough they do offer an item list of settings but only with min/max settings for each option).
That said I do have the controler up and running, but I am wondering if anyone has a list of recommended settings that should be changed/tweaked from the default settings. I am aware that each application is different, but i building basic builtup bike (like a thunderstruck jackal) and settings like acceration/deacceleration delay, motor poles, phase adjustment etc are options that that i wonder if i should change. Or should I just everything alone?
thanks
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Limiting current with Kelly KDS?
Submitted by ApostateZero on Mon, 10/05/2009 - 06:29Howdy,
I am working on a pocketbike conversion and I have a motor that is only rated for 28 amps. My controller is a KDS48100 - so it will do short bursts of 100 amps and then constant at 60 amps. I am trying to limit the amps to avoid frying my motor. But no luck! I used the Kelly configuration program, limited "maximum armature current" to 28% which should have put my at 28 amps, right? Yet I keep seeing 45-50 amps on my ammeter. What gives?
I am using a video camera to gather data, so here is what I am talking about:
http://www.toddlandia.com/apostate/amps.wmv
Thanks for any help!
Todd
http://toddlandia.com/apostate/
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Mini golf cart controller problem - Help!
Submitted by kenzcarts on Sun, 09/27/2009 - 08:59I've got a controller out of a fairly new 4 wheel Chinese mobility cart (has a steering wheel and looks like a tiny one seat golf cart). The part # on the controller is CID 932 B9D. It is a 10 connector controller (one connector is not used) with built in reverse - 36 volt 40 amp with the 31.5 voltage protection. The controller looks identical to a CT-660B9, but with 10 connectors. Any Idea where I could locate one if these? Is there another controller that I could use (and not have to do extensive modifications?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.


motor runs backwards
Submitted by gilnetwisc on Tue, 09/15/2009 - 11:08I have read a million things,no luck.guy who sold it to me cut all the wires .hall,throttle.He put spade connect and took pic of how they hook up.prob:he doesn't show which two(1red 1black)go to throttle/two that go to motor.these are all skinny wires.I managed by actually using high power optic to id them by marks on the spades.so I hooked exact as he showed.Motor ran backw.he keeps trying to put off like it's a fun puzzle for me instead of just admitting he screwd up.claims it has to be thephase wires to motor(fat wires)but those connects he didn't cut off.they can only connect one way.(three andersons stuck together)After performin hrs of surgery w/scalpel and optics to cut away all the silicon,every where.I can see the wires on the board.prob:He"thinks its crystalite".Its been modified to run at 52v.W/wires -out,on my right,mosfets north,the two reds are close but definately one rt,one left;the blacks are extremely close,almost look soldered to the same hole but I can see one lL and 1rt.I don't want to start switching wires and blow cont and/or motor.all forums read say this will happen.I don't have fancy bench power supply.I know this really is zilch to go on but is there a place I can view circuit boards,starting w/clytes so I could see which goes to throt/halls?This board was modified by steveo if thats any help.ANY help would be appreciated.First bike,me old crip.like to ride once before I die.
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Powerpack controller let go and I need ideas for a replacement
Submitted by amp_head on Sat, 09/05/2009 - 15:54My scooter has been dead in the water for the last year or so due to a bad controller that powerpack would not warranty. :(
Does anyone know of a good controller that will work with the powerpack BMC motors?
Thanks in advance!
Matt
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