Electric vehicle batteries and chargers

I needed to get a 36 volt battery pack for my electric bicycle, to see about getting it back on the road. The bike is not important, though it's an Electra Townie I bought in the 00's, and it has a front wheel hub motor from e-BikeKit, also from the 00's, and a Cycle Analyst dashboard thing, also from the 00's.

Hi all I just bought a used hoverboard on an auction site but the charger supplied is wrong. It is 5v. The board needs a 36v charger rated at 42v 2a. I went through my chargers and found one that has a label with different voltages and 29 v at 2 amps checked off. So I opened it thinking there was a pot in it that I could turn to get the desired voltage. But it does not. The electronics board on the charger has ktj7225b on it. Is there anything I can do to uptrend voltage to 42v . Someone on a Russian site said to change the tl431 zener diode .

It seems it is a little hard to get a matched set of BMS and a charger. I would think lithium chargers would talk to the BMS or be adjustable in output. I want to make a 20s by 2 p and no seller seems to know what I am talking about. Lawrence Rhodes

I have a VX1 apparently with a bad charger that is slowly discharging while I get a replacement 144v charger.

I am curious if this 144v charger would do the job if the bike was only charged at home:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Customized-1200W-Lithium-ion-battery-charger-147V-6A-or-7A-charger-35S-Li-ion-battery-charger/32...

I have an OpenEVSE kit -- two of them actually -- and I went to use one yesterday to charge my car. I'd successfully used this OpenEVSE several times to charge my car, but this time the display showed NO GROUND and refused to work. Hurm. It did not matter which power outlet I tried. As soon as I connected the OpenEVSE to the car, it would display that message. Hurm.

This morning I checked the wiring using an ohmmeter. I opened the case to expose the inner wiring so I could check the connections through the cables and to see if any of the cables had gone bad.

Hello all. Lately, I started having a problem with the battery pack on my Vectrix VX-1. I am hoping that someone can give me some advice. My VX-1 is a 2007 model with the original NiCad battery pack. Here is the problem: When I charged up the battery pack, I got a reading of 35 miles for the range and the indicator showed fully charged. After about 3 miles of city driving and a pause for about 4 hours, the reading was down to 24 miles range. I drove another couple miles and then the range dropped to 9 miles, the red battery light came on and the bike went into "limp home" mode.

I need a charger for my zev. Any suggestions on where to check?

I have lived in a number of places in this wonderful state of Taxachusetts, home of the NFPA, for a long time. Ever since I got here, I had an interest in EVs. Finally I built and licensed one. Charging was done via a dryer outlet. Then an inspector came along and said I needed a GFCI. No prob. Eighty bucks and new 4 conductor wiring , later I was up and running. Found out it can work with two diodes to make a 120 volt DC charger too. Actually better on 132 volt system. Most of the current was on the Neutral. Fifty or 60 amp on a 30 Amp breaker. Nifty!!

I have recently added Nissan leaf cells to an ERIDER 8000W scooter. I am using a ZEVA BMS to monitor charging of 10 Nissan leaf batteries (20 cells x 4.2V = 84V HVC) using a charger designed for 24 x 3.65V = 87.6V HVC Lithium Iron Phosphate cells. The charger constantly charges at 20A or C/3 for the 60 AH Nissan cells until the end of charge signal from the BMS trips the relay and stops the charger. Is it OK to charge at full current right up to the 4.2V high voltage cutoff ?. Most lithium battery chargers appear to reduce current for the last 10-15% of the charging process.

Opinions...which of the two is better and why?
By manual I mean...take out the cells and individually, say, charge/top-balance them off individual chargers yourself.

Or does it depend on which BMS and which ones would you recommend and why?