XM-2000, XM-3000, XM-3500, ...

I have been enjoying my XM-3500li for almost a year now and I have learned a lot. I ride it almost every day for my 2 mile commute and for pleasure. I have replaced a couple cells, made my own battery cable replacement at a marine store, upgraded head lamps, replaced the dc-dc converter, etc.

A month or two ago I noticed the controller was taking time to make the switch from low torque to high-torque mode. I used it like a low gear and high gear for a while on the belief that this would extend the range. Occasionally it would switch after I already expected it to have switched and while I was applying throttle, so it would kick in with a "thonk." I thought that couldn't be good for it and tried to avoid it as much as possible. It seemed to get better after warming up a little.

Then one day, the low torque didn't engage at all. That's fine, I prefer high-torque mostly and left the switch in that position, taking care when possible not to apply too much throttle too quickly off the start. Unfortunately now I am in the opposite situation. Low torque is working but high torque is out.

I have no idea what to do about it and my closest advisor on things electrical is busy fighting whale wars in the southern ocean.

Can anyone suggest what I might try to do to either fix the controller or determine if it must be replaced?

Also, I have a sticky kill switch on the left brake. It seems to fall to a position where it can cut power to the motor so after breaking I usually have to push it back out a little. This may contribute also to the "thonking" as if I do this after applying throttle, it will thonk. Can I replace this with a standard break thingy? If I didn't by from x-treme can I still get a replacement part?

Have I killed my controller? What about these fancy Kelly controllers? Would I be better off with one of those? Is it within my ability to install?

Much Appreciated,

Steven

I've seen many references to Elite Power Solutions and their great price of $64 per 40AH cell + up to $10 to $15 shipping per cell.

Well, I searched Google for "TS-LFP-40AH-A" and the first link returned was Evolve Electrics.
Their price is $54 per 40AH cell, shipping supposedly included. I added 4 of them to my cart and proceeded to check out. Fed-ex Ground shipping to Oregon was an extra $9.92, so shipping isn't entirely included, but is practically insignificant.

So, in summary, to ship 4 of the 40AH cells to Oregon is:
$225.92 for Evolve Electrics
$289.94 for Elite Power Solutions

I have not ordered any batteries from them yet, so if you have please post your experiences.

Thanks,
Alan

I haven't bought this scooter yet, but I'm almost certain I will within the next day or two. I found an Internet source where it's on sale from for $2350 + $200 shipping!

For me, the prospect of going 50+ MPH would be great for taking the occasional trip on the highway to the next town 11 miles over. The XM-5000li could do this natively, but it's way too expensive at $5500 when I can seemingly buy and upgrade an XM-3500li for a little over $4100.

1. So, from those who know more about the subject, I'd like to know if I can add the Kelly 6.0KW brushless hub motor upgrade? Also I'd like to confirm I'd need the 13-inch size.
2. Of course I would need the Kelly 150A brushless DC motor controller to match the power requirements. I noticed it has regen, but how have people tied in the regen? Another regen-break lever? Are the brakes cable-driven like on a bicycle, or are they electronically controlled?
3. From there, I would like to add four more of the 40ah Thundersky batteries. Is there room for these, or would this require a frame modification? I've seen people posting about having 8 additional cells, but I haven't seen anything on how they fit them.
4. I'm looking at the 24-cell BMS from Rechargeable Lithium Power, but what charger should I be looking at? Also, does the DC/DC converter need to be replaced, and if so what brand should I be looking at?

Finally, is there anything else I should be considering?

My pricing so far:
XM-3500li Moped + $200 shipping = $2550
6.0 Kelly brushless hub motor upgrade = $599
24-120V,150A, brushless motor controller = $499
4 additional 40A Thundersky batteries = $256
24-cell BMS = $230
DC/DC converter ???
Smart charger ???

For a total of $4134 + some shipping. That seems like a steal to me compared to the premade scooters out there!

It has been mentioned by a few others that XM-3100 models can have sticky brake switches that end up killing power to the motor, but I can't find the post that describes the fix.

I was running out of daylight and tempted to undo the whole brake lever mechanism today. It's frustrating enough when the brake switch sticks uphill at a light and prevents forward power.

I just left my XM-5000 on the charger overnight by accident. Can anyone tell me what damage this causes and if there is anything I can do to remedy it?

Hi! A couple of days ago, I bought a VIP trunk from E-bay and installed it on my XM-3100. It really looks nice. However, I have not being able to wire all the lights on it. Has anyone done this? I would appreciate any instructions.

Thanks

I have a couple of XM-3000 and a couple of XM-3100's and Headlight and turn signal stopped working and found the Converter under the floor mat and it was wet. The double sided stickey tape stuck to floor of bike along with specs saying 60 volt is 12 volt out I guess since it is backward reading thru tape. It seem strange that the color coding from the bike all of them says Grn, Blk, and Yel go into the converter Blk, Yel, then Red. in other words is the Green wire to go to the black wire on converter? Then the black wire of bike go to Yellow wire=10.5 volts when it did work. and the Yellow wire on the scooter is 68.0 volts to Fused red wire on converter. I have an open ticket but need to ride the bike so I think I will use a 12 volt battery for lights till order arrives.
It seem like a bad place to put an electrical device where it can get wet and fail. Strange color coding in my book. On my Vectrix the 12.0 volt is 11.5 volt out too. All seem to run on the low side of 12 volts. If there is room under headlight cowling I will re-mount it there? Also the yellow wire is fused for 20 amperes and the wire is about 18 or maybe 16 AWG. Safe? Not.
RUSSELL

Oops. I'm still figuring out how to safely disconnect the charger as there's no on/off switch and at some point it seemed to indicate that I should have the "ignition" key turned on.

Anyway, after a bright flash I have no peripheral electronics -- lights, horn, signals. The ignition switch itself seems to be working, although it's a bit intermittent. When I turn the key I have to wiggle to get it to display the voltage on the meter.

So I have two questions...

1. What is the correct way to disconnect the charger and...
2. How can I fix my problem?

TIA

-Christopher

After 3 months of use, front brake started leaking oil. Whenever front brake lever is pulled, oil leakes between two nuts (see picture). Thus, front brake is completely ineffective.

Both nuts are very tight. There is NO other adjustment to fix the leakage.

Can the leakage be fixed? or do I have to replace full front brake assembly? If it is to be replaced, where can I buy the parts from?

Appreciate your help.

Thanks
Venkat

Is Polonium used in some of these Lithium batteries? I am trying to search on eBay for good prices and what I get for a search is LiFePo4 instead of Li=Lithium, Fe=iron, and PO4= phosphate??? It gets changed to Polonium =Po
And most of the cells and batteries are from Hong Kong China. I plan on making my XM-3000 Lithium powered vs the Pb sled that it is. I cant get the range over 29 miles US miles. And that is dead DEAD range. Jungle keeps on coming up for search for Lithium batteries and cells.
Rusty