Wilderness Energy

Hello Dogman, others, Anyone who can help,

My last post, I thought I blew my controller but then realized I charged my Ping 48V 20AH battery on the bike and forgot to turn off the controller... So, I believe the battery just discharged sitting idle with the controller turned on... Thats the background for my problem...

Now, I recharged the ping and my SLA pack and went riding yesterday... I started with the Ping and only traveled about a mile and it went dead... Glad I had the stock SLA battery pack with me and was able to travel on the old pack about 15 miles (to and from where I was going).

When I got home, put the ping back on the charger and it would only charge for about 2 minutes. The charger went from green light to red light and you could tell it was charging...

I thought that maybe the battery really wasn't needing a charge and it was just a "fluke" that it shut down before... So the battery charger was on green light indicating the ping was charged. Put the Ping on the bike and was only able to ride for about 20 seconds and again no power...

I don't think it is the charger. and I know its not the controller or motor hook up because the old SLAs work fine...

I tried one more thing... I hooked up the SLA 36Volt 2 amp charger to the ping. Both chargers run on house current at 50-60 hrtz. So I thought I'd see if the SLA charger would do anything. It didn't start charging with the 36 volt charger either... Put the 36 volt charger back on the SLAs and it continued to charge the old SLAs with no problem

Finally, I put the ping charger back on the ping and left it hooked up overnight.

The battery is just a year old (bought it October 2008)... Could it be something in the circut board that is mounted to the top of the Battery? I hate to think about going back to Ping and seeing if I can send it back to him to fix!!! Are there places in the U.S. that can work on it? I don't know if I could get it back into China!!! Should I maybe ask ping to send me a new circuit board. If I bought a new circuit board, I wouldn't know what to do with it.... I hate to be out the $700.00... What to do???

Dogman, others, please advise....

Cheers,
Matt (ajw)

Hi Dogman and others,

It's been a while since I've been on the site but needing advise once again...

I've had the Crystalyte 24-72V 20Amp controller on my bike for a little over a year... Last rode the bike a few weeks ago... Charged the battery (my ping and my stock one)... When I turn on the controller, the on/off red light comes on very weak and then fades off (within 2-3 seconds)... I checked the connections and they were OK.. Got the same problem with both batteries.. I guess something inside the controller has gone bad... What do you guys think?

As always, thanks for helping out... I think I'm back to Bernson EV to buy the Wilderness Energy heavy duty one he sells.

Cheers,
AJW

I have a 48volt lithium batt into a crystalite 48volt 30amp controller into a WE bd 36 26" wheel and when i put any load on it the controller cuts out and needs to wait 15minutes before it will work again but it does the same thing. I had a 36volt controller on there and it was working fine for almost a year and is only recently that it started acting up. When I replaced with the 48volt crystalite I thought I had solved the problem but the exact same thing happened which makes me think it is something in the wheel or Amps or I dont know but it is soul crushing to not be on my bike. The other thing that happened is that i replaced the brushes and brush holder and maybe the timing is off? Would the effect of off timing be a shut down when load is applied?How do I know where the right timing is?
Please Obi Wan your my only hope....

Was running WE BL-36 at 61 volts overvolted.

I think I have the 50Amp controller.

The Current draw on the Watt's UP meter, only showed 23 Amps.

Had been running fine.

I was stopped still, at red light.

Went to accelerate, and the front wheel fell off, I think the bolts had come loose.

It might have been that I didnt' pedal, and only used throttle,
or the wheel might have just come loose on it's own.

I put everyting back together, the wires seemed fine going to the motor.

Now the motor makes funny sounds, and doesnt draw as much currrent.

The Watt's Up meter, shows it only draws about 1 to 2 AMPS now,
before it was anything up to 20Amps, but usually just around 10Amps.

Speed is only about 8mph with the wheel off the ground.
It used to be more than 30mph.

Lots of vibration and noise coming from the motor.

Any ideas on what i broke ?

I need to probably take apart the motor ?

Anyone fixed a BL-36 ?

No brushes, but what is there that would need fixing ?

Thanks for any help or ideas.

I would change my controller on my bl36
for a 48 volt controller what brand controller I can put
tanks for help.

My We brushless motor stopped working today. The lights on the controller have a steady red light and blinking green light. The throttle indicates full charge. My multimeter reads over 36 volts on the three prong connection from controller to wheel. Any suggestions ?

I currently ride an older Schwinn mtb with the BL36 kit. Love it. Now I am thinking of converting a 20 inch bike for the hills we have here.
Any suggestions on which used bike to look for? Need adult size, as I am 5 ft. 10.
thanks, Garret

To recap: Having destroyed the controller that came with my Wilderness Energy BD-36 kit, I followed the advice of one of our esteemed group members (both here and in that "other" group) and ordered the ecrazyman/BD4833/Shenzhen Sucteam controller (48V 800Watt) through eBay. I tried to wire it up according to the recommendations that many of you have suggested to the numerous inqueries that have been made on this subject. Particularly, the + side of my battery pack plugs into the red controller wire and - into the black. Upon plugging in (just touching, I don't give it a full "slam them together") it's as if I have created a dead short; complete with vaporized metal and setting the plug plastic on fire. The motor moved not a whit. It behaves this way whether I have everything wired up or just the controller and the batteries. Have I acquired a DOA controller? Are there any tests of the controller I can perform with a simple VOM? Am I just doing something truly stupid out of sheer ignorance? Any help will be much appreciated at this juncture.
BothellBob

I have had a season with my 36V/20amp LiFePO4 & BD36 but I'm going a different direction and want to sell my Townie and/or all the parts and two chargers.
Anybody know of a classified section worth anything?
Thanks

On my WE BL-36 I have solid red power light and a constant blinking green light on the controller when the battery 36V battery pack is connected. The battery pack is fully charged with a volmeter reading of about 37.1 volts on the SAE two prong flat connector.

This solid red and blinking green on the controller continues when the throttle is both plugged or unplugged in.
When the throttle is plugged in I get a solid yellow (low ) and solid red (power) but no green (full ) indicator readings on the throttle indicator lights. When the throttle is unplugged the controller remains in the solid red and blinking green mode and the throttle obviously shows no indicator lights at all.

Typically in the past when I plug the bike battery pack to the controller matching battery plug a spark occurs.
This spark is common as I have read and apparently due to rapid capacitor charging in the controller.
But now there is no sparking and just those blinking green and solid red indicator lights on the controller when connected to the battery. And the solid red and yellow on the throttle when connected but still no green.

My intuition seems to think their is a throttle problem either internally or with the fragile plug connectors.
Thinking that the circuit from the throttle to the controller is not being completed and hence a continuous flasshing green and solid red mode on the controller. With the throttle disconnected this is the same result on the controller with a blinking green and a solid red. Leads me to believe that the circuit is not being completed.

I'm not sure why I am no longer getting that spark when the battery pack and controller are connected?

Maybe this has to do with the circuit not be complete also? ....dont know

Your thoughts are appreciated....Thanks...Bud