E-Max

Finally I changed my batteries to a brand new B&B set.
I thanks everybody for all informartions I gathered.

So while changing the batt set I rewired them into 2P4S (Batteries are linked in parallele and the four pairs are connected in serial)

I had to remove one charging socket (no more needed as batts won't be able to be turned into 2x48V series)
->so I remove B+ and Bx connections on the BlackBox (which is white so I'll call it WB from now).
->the two more wires from the charging socket go to 0V and +48V of the original second serial off batts (B)

I rewired everything using original cables (especially the longs ones form relayB to batts).
Relays are connected together in parallel in the relaybox (below feet).
I used 6^2mm as often as possible bute I had to do somme parts with 2x4^2mm.

Everything can be seen here (in french but with many pictures

Nb: I finally kept Ax connection on the WBox.

On this picture I still have originals batts

Just to say that the current that the 2500w 60v mopeds put through a 41 amp current. This seems to destroy normal batteries very quickly. I have had 3 sets, the originals, cheap batteries, and a gel pack from Haze. The last two packs lasted about 150 cycles only before dying. Could this possibly be the controller? Should I get a new controller?

Anyway I currently believe they simply are not designed to handle that kind of current. I have now ordered some Lithium batteries from ebay V power.

Anyone have any leads on a motor for a Kasea? The serial number on the motor says "48V-2000" so I imagine it's the 2000 watt motor.

I also have a "Wind" scooter which is 36 volts and needs a motor. It was sold by Extreme. It's a brushed motor with the pedal sprocket. It was made by Angell.

If anyone has leads on motors for those that would be great.

Chip Gribben
futurev@radix.net

Just wondering if anyone in the community has any experience with curtis controllers? I know they've been around for a great many of years and hear them highly recommended for car conversions.

Curious to know if anyone has played with regen on the emax as well. Something like this looks like a good fit. Can anyone tell me what parameters you can program via rs-232 on this? Didn't mention that on page.

http://www.kellycontroller.com/shop/?mod=product&cat_id=41,22&product_id=304

Couldn't find the schematics for the emax either in the handbook section. I get redirected to an ilbcnu.org search page.
Anyone still alive out there?

Just looking at the shoddy soldering job inside the controller
assembly, I should have expected failure after 2000 miles.

The bike died in the middle of my way home one
night. I took the controller apart to find an open
pathway on the far right burned open. I repaired this
today and the bike worked again but with intermittant
cuttout. Now it's back where I started. The bike turn on
lights,ticker, battery meter all work fine. Just no throttle.

Matt, you mentioned something about replacing yours
with a Kelly controller. How is this coming along for you?
I'd like to get a replacement that won't fail every 2000
miles.

After having to wait through a heavy, but not unusually heavy, thunderstorm, I was riding home from work when, topping a rise suddenly found myself facing a flooded dip in the road - going too fast to stop. It has never flooded like this before. I was left with no choice but to power through the 2 to 2.5 feet of muddy water hoping to get out the other side before something got ruined.

No such luck. The motor now will not start turning until given an initial spin, thereafter it runs roughly and noisily, at slow speed, getting smoother (nearly normally) at top RPMs. I rode it slowly home (about 5 miles) in this condition - maybe not a good idea.

I dried the wiring connectors and checked for evidence of water intrusion into the controller. It does not look like water got in the controller.

The only fully submerged item was the motor, so my best guess is bad hall sensors - maybe just temporarily until they dry out?

Ideas?

Matt, I recall that you once disassembled an e-max motor? Any tips?

Thanks for any advice.

Paul D.

ON two recent occasions I've noticed the smell of what I believe is burning plastic after leaving the charger on overnight. The batteries work fine, I did 25miles yesterday w/o a problem. I think that 1 of my two chargers may have a problem determining when the battery charge is full. It seems to continue to run long after the scooter should be fully charged. The charger is not hot but the lights remain red. The floor of the storage compartment seems warm, I believe the batteries are getting hot and causing the problem possibly because the charger is not shutting off. Has anyone else had such a problem? I'm going to try it again with my other charger to see if it is charger specific.

Thanks

One of the most intractable problems I found with my E-maxs - probably any rear-drum brake equipped, Chinese hub motor e-scooter - is the awful brake squeal on some of them. I tried a number of things like sanding the drum and shoes, anti-squeal compound on the shoes, with only temporary, if any relief.

But finally, I thought up a solution. The brake squeal is just a harmonic that sets up at the natural vibratory frequency of the brake linings under the friction with the drum. So, by introducing a gap in the shoe it keeps the harmonic from setting up. So, I cut a transverse slot across the linings, at the mid-point of the linings with a saw, the full depth of the lining, and a very small amount into the shoe, and beveled the slot with a file. I reinstalled the shoes, and voila, no more squeal.

It only took 3/1/2 years to figure it out!

Considering their Chinese origin, the lining material may be asbestos containing - especially in the US where asbestos-containing materials have not ever been legally banned, so do this outdoors and wet the shoe and saw.

Hi @all! This is my first post on this community.

I recently bought a new E-Max 110S and I'm very happy with it overall!

However, I'm trying to find information on how to remove the 45km/h speed limit. I searched this forum and found some instructions to an old version of the controller board. Mine is very different.

I attached to this post two photos of the controller board. Maybe that can help :)

External Media

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Can anyone maybe shed some light on this one before I get irritated enough and rip the hub assembly apart? I own a kasea ze2000 modified, the one with replacement batteries now working quite well that was documented earlier in this forum. This is the last irritation I'd like to get rid of before I consider my ev project complete.

When the back wheel is hoisted off the ground and I hit the throttle, you get the normal quiet whine of an induction motor, I'm good with that. However, when then rear wheel is on the ground and you hit the throttle there is a very annoying clicking noise, similiar to a gas engine noise. This only happens when you provide power to the motor. When just pushing the bike or moving it with your legs whilst you ride it, you don't hear it.

It's been like this since I got it. I imagine kasea put some sort of mechanism in the hub assembly to make it sound like a gas engine so people could hear you coming down the road. The
only problem with this is:

IT'S NOT A GAS POWERED SCOOTER! If I wanted to hear loud farting noises coming from my bike, I'd buy a harley. Can anyone provide any ideas about this fairly loud irritating noise? It's really getting under my skin.