Custom builds or home-built electric motorcycles

I'll include pics when I am done with the body work. This is my first project and I have overcome the following:
Never did any project anything like this before.
Minimal welding, electrical and moderate automotive skills.
Cost of project-just over $4000- I am not employed, time spent persuading my wife.
I have no real work space, just a 6x8 shed.
I have limited tools. I did not really plan the battery placement, I mounted the motor first and started low with the batteries and these optimas go all the way up to what used to be a gas tank.
I had no help from anyone (for the build), I asked the companies I bought the parts from for advice and they mislead me and wasted my time.

After over a year of waiting for funds and finding the right donor, I put it together in one weekend and rode triumphantly around my neighborhood. I have since been correcting my initial mistakes and attempting body work. I have been trying fiberglass panels, but I am not having an easy time. Any fiberglass advice would be appreciated.

Hi there.

I am a bit stumped about motor placement. The motor is a used Etek that I am mounting on an old Suzuki GN-125. Since I don’t have much to spend I have been fabricating a mount out of 3/16 X 1 1/4 X 1 1/4 angle iron from the local big box hardware store. I am mounting to the swing arm in order to avoid issues with chain tension/slack and to avoid a second set of sprockets and chains.

Below is a picture of the bike; the four marked spots are where I was going to place the motor (#1 and #2) and where I may place the motor (#3A & #3B). I preferred spot #1 since it was mounted inside the frame to the swing arm, but it didn’t work because there wasn’t enough clearance (the circles are not to scale). Spot #2 had the motor outside the frame (I cut off the kick stand and foot peg holder outlined in pink since this photo was taken). The problem there was that the motor kept hitting the shock absorber and didn’t leave enough room for the rear sprocket.

My next proposed positions may be a bit radical. The first placement, 3A, is on a cantilever attached to the swing arm with the motor “floating” within the area the old engine went. However, I wanted to mount the batteries there and would be forced to move them to a “saddle bag” position around the back wheels. Another alternative is to rotate the cantilever 90 degrees and mount the motor above the frame. In either position, the motor would bob up and down as the swing arm moves and have plenty of cooling.

My questions are these:

1. Is it really OK to run the Etek counter-clockwise in order to keep it within the centerline of the bike? I have read posts that it is OK and not OK and the Etek manual doesn’t say anything about it.
2. Does anyone have experience with the mounting positions (3A or 3B) I am looking at?
3. Does anyone have experience converting a Suzuki GN-125?
4. Should I not worry so much about adding an additional sprocket on a lever attached to a spring to maintain tension on the chain? (How do ICE motorcycles avoid slack when the swing arm moves?)
5. Is there a large efficiency loss if I add an intermediary set of sprockets on a small axle? It has occurred to me that if I mount the motor to the frame where the old ICE engine went, and put an axle as far forward as possible on the swing arm, the slack on the chain from the motor to the intermediary axle would be minimized and the tension on the chain from the intermediary axle to the rear wheel would be constant. It would, however, add a level of complexity and cost to the whole setup that I prefer to avoid.

Btw, as an experiment to test the strength of the steel angle I am using, I secured a four foot length of it to a fence post, mounted the motor to it, added three ten pound weights to it (hanging by a rope) and let it stay there for a day. The two lag screws that I was using to attach it to the fence post had begun to let go of the wood, but the steel and 3/8 nuts and bolts were fine. This gave me some confidence in using this metal, even considering the torsion and other physical forces that will be acting on it when riding. I am using washers and lock washers where appropriate and may pay to have the steel welded, too.

I look forward to your comments and feedback.

Peace,

Jacob

New here! Please excuse my ignorance on electric motorcycle conversions!!!

Just starting to look into a Ninja Conversion.

Would an 1987 Ninja 750 (specifically) be the easiest to build?? (i.e., No welding/Machining)

Or could an 1988 or 2000's model be just as easy?

Just wondering why John Bidwell went with the 1987 Ninja specifically? (I have not read the book yet)

I would just like to make an easy conversion as this being my first and make it go as smooth as possible
and just wondering which exact bike/year I should use?

Any input will be much appreciated!!!!

thanks, techno

Symptom: Motor doesn't have any power under load.

Specs:
Motor is the Original Etek brushless motor purchased directly from Briggs and Stratton.

Motor Controller
------------------------------------------------------
1 x Controlbox () = $39.00
1 x Throttle Hall 0-5V Twist Grip(WUXING) () = $19.00
1 x Assembly with Reversing(KD) () = $229.00
1 x KBLI Optional Waterproof () = $58.00
1 x Meter LED 72Volt State of Charge () = $19.00
1 x KBL72301,24-72V,300A,BLDC Controller/With Regen () = $549.00
1 x HWC1B Series 72V/8A Charger () = $199.00
1 x HWZ Series DC/DC Convertor 72V to 12V 300W () = $129.00
1 x Amperemeter 400A () = $29.00
1 x Kelly RS232 Converter and Cable and Standard USB to RS232 () = $39.00
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $1,309.00
Table Rate (Best Way): $163.00
Total: $1,472.00
http://www.newkellycontroller.com/product_info.php?cPath=23_46&products_id=263
I got the assembly so I wouldn't have a problem wiring it up (this is my first try at this).
http://www.newkellycontroller.com/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=333
I also got the controller box.
http://www.newkellycontroller.com/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=131

Troubleshooting:
I tried all 36 combinations per this thread (great thread by the way). I couldn't have gotten this far without it.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484&start=0
When I try the motor under no load on the bench it sounds and runs great.
Symptom: Motor doesn't have any power under load.

Specs:
Motor is the Original Etek brushless motor purchased directly from Briggs and Stratton.

Motor Controller
------------------------------------------------------
1 x Controlbox () = $39.00
1 x Throttle Hall 0-5V Twist Grip(WUXING) () = $19.00
1 x Assembly with Reversing(KD) () = $229.00
1 x KBLI Optional Waterproof () = $58.00
1 x Meter LED 72Volt State of Charge () = $19.00
1 x KBL72301,24-72V,300A,BLDC Controller/With Regen () = $549.00
1 x HWC1B Series 72V/8A Charger () = $199.00
1 x HWZ Series DC/DC Convertor 72V to 12V 300W () = $129.00
1 x Amperemeter 400A () = $29.00
1 x Kelly RS232 Converter and Cable and Standard USB to RS232 () = $39.00
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $1,309.00
Table Rate (Best Way): $163.00
Total: $1,472.00
http://www.newkellycontroller.com/product_info.php?cPath=23_46&products_id=263
I got the assembly so I wouldn't have a problem wiring it up (this is my first try at this).
http://www.newkellycontroller.com/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=333
I also got the controller box.
http://www.newkellycontroller.com/product_info.php?cPath=36&products_id=131

Troubleshooting:
I tried all 36 combinations per this thread (great thread by the way). I couldn't have gotten this far without it.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484&start=0
When I try the motor under no load on the bench it sounds and runs great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-16TluHidqQ
With regen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEJZXapDXDU

When I hook it up on the trike it makes a little popping sound like it's missing. I have a couple of combinations that work good on the bench but not under load.
Wheels up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VP4RykMsezM
Wheels down
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BWOCszStMc

Under full load it has no power. :(

When I check the hall sensors they each cycle up and down and show 4.48 volts.
When I spin the tires manually and check the hall sensors I've never seen all three showing voltage at once so I'm pretty sure it's set properly at 120 degrees.
Power wire is 4.89 volts.
Phase wires start out at 1.7 volts or so and each cycle up and down with power. I've had it up to 6 volts and the wheels spin faster than I want to chance it while having it up off the ground with no load.
I'm using all the software defaults on the controller. I did try regen and on my last test I disabled the auto temperature shutdown sensor for the motor (since I didn't have it hooked up).
http://www.newkellycontroller.com/KBLHelp.php

Resolution:
I feel like I'm soooo close with this but still a no go.
With regen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEJZXapDXDU

When I hook it up on the trike it makes a little popping sound like it's missing. I have a couple of combinations that work good on the bench but not under load.
Wheels up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VP4RykMsezM
Wheels down
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BWOCszStMc

Under full load it has no power. :(

When I check the hall sensors they each cycle up and down and show 4.48 volts.
When I spin the tires manually and check the hall sensors I've never seen all three showing voltage at once so I'm pretty sure it's set properly at 120 degrees.
Power wire is 4.89 volts.
Phase wires start out at 1.7 volts or so and each cycle up and down with power. I've had it up to 6 volts and the wheels spin faster than I want to chance it while having it up off the ground with no load.
I'm using all the software defaults on the controller. I did try regen and on my last test I disabled the auto temperature shutdown sensor for the motor (since I didn't have it hooked up).
http://www.newkellycontroller.com/KBLHelp.php

Resolution:
I feel like I'm soooo close with this but still a no go.

My new pedaless design is setup for a crystalyte hub motor cruiser and it looks to be $900.00 plus ouch.
Any Ideas? I want to design and build this realy cool electric project which I designed from scratch. I am currently in the pre welding stage of this ground up design.I have worked in an engineering office as a design draftsmen slash supervisor and feel very confident that my design will work very well. But lack of funds may kill this project. Anybody else feeling this way?
Hard to believe that a gas bike cost about $400.00 to hit the street and a Electric bike that can keep up with it will run you over a $1000.00 easily. Give me some Ides any cheaper 40 volt hub motors out there?

Just order a used (original) Etek and (new) Millipak controller.
Here comes the fun. Woo Hoo.

Peace

After years of looking at motorbikes, riding some, dreaming about owning or buiding one, I have finally settled on building a cafe racer/tracker style electric motorcycle. I've just bought a 1986 Honda CBX250 rolling frame and am currently investigating all electric components.

I've looked into Lithium Ion batteries from a company called LifeBatt but the costs are high. The batteries are roughly $2000 NZ (US$1400) each and apparently also require a battery protection module (NZ$1000). They've also quoted NZ$2000 for a compatible charger. For my total budget of $5000 this is waay to expensive, so I think I'll have to go for deep cycle lead acid batteries. I'll keep investigating Lithium Ion possibilities but at the moment Lead is winning.

I've found a good site at EVAmerica for pretty much all the components required and even though frieght will cost almost NZ$1000 after tax it's still the best option.

Any help or suggestions are welcomed.

Hello, Long time lurker, first time poster. My kid has a mini dirtbike as seen here... http://www.bajamotorsportsonline.com/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=92

It ran pretty well, for one half summer. One day wouldn't start. Tore down the engine and he bent an exhaust valve. Long story short, his grandmother (purchaser) hasn't bought the replacement parts needed for me to rebuild it (as offered). So, I'm thinking of converting to electric. The bike could do 50-60mph on an ice. I don't need it (or want it) to go that fast. I'd say 30-35 is enough, but with plenty of torque. Can someone recommend a solid (hub?, mars?) kit that I can use with as little fabrication as possible. I do have experience with small electric scooters (controllers, brushed motors, sla batteries, hall throttles). Or can you tell me what to stay away from?
The motorcycle doesn't seem to have a lower support bar (to mount batteries), but I suppose I'll figure out the battery situation after I fit a motor/controller/throttle.

Thanks!

Adam

Hello my wonderful forumers

I recently purchased a 250amp curtis controller to run my (max) 300amp etek motor. I have 4 7amp SLA's driving the whole setup and would like to know how to wire the throttle cables to the controller.
has anyone had any experience with these controllers? how do I find out which cable is the 'wiper' high' and 'low' ? what could I use a AA battery and hook it up to two random cables and check the resistance? how do I do this?

I would so greatly appreciate your help as I am new at this and would love to contribute when I learn lots more on EV's

thank you very much for reading thus far and I hope you have a lovely day!

yours

Nad