Kona Blast elationebike conversion
In chapter twelve I left you with the Blast a block from heaven due to chain adjustment issues. As usual what I expected to be a quick and easy completion to a part of the evolution of the Blast was not. The half link showed up on Saturday afternoon so I went ahead and slipped it on. The chain was still a bit looser than I would have liked but on the stand when running it through the gears both with and without power went without a hitch. So off for a test ride. I have to say that this new gear ratio is much better suited to my slow 60 per minute cadence and the torque was really quite surprising. I can now actually use this like a scooter on the flats and mild inclines no pedaling required if I'm feeling lazy...sweet. I swung by the post office and bought some stamps then decided to head over to the Northgate mall to check out all the new construction and such. Not shopping mind you just sight seeing, this at around 5:30PM peak traffic on some major arterials.
This turned out not to be a good choice. While running at about 25mph with a fair amount of pedal power from yours truly of course I let off the throttle to slow for a car that pulled out in front of me from a side street. Then I pumped the crank rather hard before turning up the wick, clank grind crunch and no motor power...WTH was that? Oh and Ms. Cell Phone in the car behind me was a bit surprised that the bionic middle aged guy just hit the wall and slowed to about 10mph, screech. Missed me by that much, almost got goosed by a Mercedes hood ornament, sheesh a bit more work to do I see.
So I pull up on to the sidewalk and survey the machine. Mr. drive chain is hanging from the crank arm like a limp noodle. I manage to get it back on and try the drive train with pedals only and see the motor drive chain walks off the motor sprocket when I am pedaling faster than the motor turning. Guess that chain is still too loose. I nurse myself home and after looking at this decide that the only solution is to add an idler set up. Off to the tote full of hardware left overs from old projects to see what I can scrounge up. I only have a little better than $10 left in the budget for this little test. Well I managed to come up with all the parts by using a 1 5/8" wheel I removed from an extra caster, cut a 4" piece from a Brainard reinforcement T, plus various 5mm nuts and washers. I did need a 5 x 40 mm cap screw so off to the hardware store 8o cents for a bag of four.
About 15 minutes of hacksaw, drill and file work and the idler was ready to install. These gear reduction motors have lots of extra screws that make for good and easy attachment points. Thanks to that I had it all done in less than half an hour. Got up this morning and went about my usual errands, grocery store, pharmacy, etc. Worked great, no issues just happy motoring.
There it is, the final version of Kona Blast elationebike 1.0 drivetrain. It is still a bit short of meeting my needs to easily climb the two killer hills but close enough. I'm sure the 13t drive sprocket would be better yet for climbing but I want to use this now that riding time is here.
After having a chance to finally see a few pictures of the new stuff Allan has in the works anything I do will be wasted time. He still is working on battery layout and waiting on some new bigger watt motors to test. I'm sworn to secrecy about the details but believe me there are some potential surprises in store. Want to put one of these with the bigger motor on a rear suspension bike? The new set up will make this possible.
I was impressed with the improvements and new features that I saw and things are progressing quite nicely. This improvement process hasn't been cheap for him, not to mention time consuming. I saw one concept component that cost $2000 to have made. You don't get that from the knock off guys. I'll let you all know when they hit his website if he is bashful or forgets to make an announcement. Not bloody likely though.
Riding season is finally close to getting seriously underway here and I'm still waiting on Allan to send the new items to test. I've stated before that I need less top end and more climbing assistance so I was thinking. It's a rainy Saturday, so outside chores are on hold. All the inside stuff is caught up so why not do an experiment on the Blast with the motor gearing. My thought was that a lower assist gearing might get the motor more in it's sweet spot and help pull the hills. How to go about it? Whatever has to be reverseable should my logic be off and I put myself on a $40 budget.
The design constraints are that the 44t drive sprocket is the largest that will fit in the current location due to derailer clearance issues and the motor mount will only go so far outboard before hitting the inner chain ring. Hmm, I knew I needed to get a larger drive ring and or a smaller drive sprocket on. The current gear ratio is about 3.1 to 1 and I wanted to get it closer to 4 to 1, this after the motor gear reduction. To get near 4 to 1 I would need around a 52t ring (common size so it would be cheap and easy to procure a used one for the test) to go along with the 14t freewheel on the motor. This would get me about 3.7 to 1 and if it worked a 13t freewheel would net the magic 4 to 1.
With two Jacksons in hand off I went to the used bike parts store. Rumaging through the chain ring bin I found a decent 52t Stronglite sprocket $5.00 and some change, so far so good. Then a quick stop at the hardware store to get some allen head cap screws, nuts and a hand full of washers for use as spacers to get the ring out far enough to clear the derailer, $8.00 and some change. well within budget. Then home for the installation which started by removing the right crank and ring assembly.
Step one was to disassemble the assembly then center the new ring and match drill it, no problem. Two reattach the motor drive ring and crank then space the new chain ring with chain to clear the derailer. A little trial and error and that too was completed in short order. I then reassembled the entire crank assembly and reinstalled it. Now for the fun part adjusting the motor mount to align the two motor drive sprockets.
To start I moved the mount out as far as I could and still clear the innermost pedal ring. Then I ran it through the gears to double check the clearances. This is a place where those Esge stands pay for themselves, you can run the drive train without a bike work stand as the rear wheel is elevated when the stand is down. Problem was one of the cap screws holding the motor to mount interfered with the chain when shifting to or from the lowest gear, tossing the chain each try. Solution countersink the hole and use a tapered head screw to hold the motor. This of course required removing the crank assembly again to get room for the screw swap. With the mount all the way out the sprockets were still not in alignment so I got out my poor mans mill (round bastard file) and custom made a spacer from a washer that would fit between the keyed motor shaft stop and the freewheel. Rounding third and heading for home I thought, not.
The final step was to install the chain and adjust the mount to take up the slack. Problem....the mount when adjusted to it's max in either direction left me about a half link from an acceptable tightness. What to do? Half links are easy to come by for single speed chains and the like but I had to use a narrow 8 speed chain for clearance reasons. Time for some research, low and behold KMC makes a 3/32 half link around $4.00 or so.
None locally so time to order. OUCH those new USPS rates are brutal! $8.00 to get a $4.00 part delivered! I went ahead and pulled the trigger with an order. $28.00 into the project now so within budget but if I decide to go to a 13t freewheel and the special tool to install I'll be over by $10.00 or so.
There sat the Blast, a block from heaven with a droopy motor drive chain. I just couldn't take the suspense once the clouds cleared for a brief instance. So I mounted up and tried her out knowing that I would be throwing the drive chain if i didn't really nurse it. WOW the difference in pulling power is substantial, I think I'm on to something. Thinking that a 13t freewheel will net me about 15mph or so max with assist just might prove a fair trade for better pulling. As I read somewhere,when I want speed I have plenty of hills to go down.
What a stack of chain rings, 5 on the crank. Looks kind of Rube Goldberg. You can see the stock elationebike sprocket through the new 52t job. It's amazing just how quickly rings grow in diameter when you add teeth. I can still use stock elation gearing should I ever go to Kansas and want more top end by quickly swapping out the chain for a shorter one and running the smaller wheel. Of course adjusting the motor mount would be in order but the big wheel can remain installed as I made sure the clearance would allow that. I'll clean it all up and install the half link upon arrival and update this chapter with performance impressions.
Until next time........
Well Allan has made it public.
New elationebike items coming soon!
I've known about and been looking forward to trying these for some time now but promised to keep it on the QT. I'll be doing an upgrade conversion with these new parts (to be covered in this blog) to the Blast, beta testing, and providing feedback for continuous improvement just as soon as the new design parts become available. That's why I have not altered my current set up and why I have not posted anything in a while. I did make a few hints but didn't really spill the beans. It seemed pointless to duplicate the work that Allan was doing and more importantly funding.
When it comes to the subject of patents I am firmly behind the designer getting exclusive rights for some period of time (if they desire) to defray the expense of developing it and more importantly protect the use of that idea. Ideas are the one thing that a person can truly create and these creations should remain the property of the ones who conceive them, deserving of defense from theft. Sounding like John Gault here I know.
It's no secret here that through our business dealings Allan has become a long distance friend of mine, and I freely admit to a certain bias towards him. But I also feel defense of intellectual property is what funds and encourages future development. All I can say is if you are going to purchase this type of conversion kit and want better gear selection, motor mounting and power just wait and see what the new kit looks like. There is nothing wrong with the existing unit for many applications, mine is just more demanding in the specific area of hill climbing or I would not change it.
If you decide to purchase I would urge you to buy it from the designer and patent holder especially if you want to see more improvements, not just knock offs. When I purchased my kit from him he was offering a 10% discount to forum members, but I decided to forgo the discount to help him get started.
Support the developers and you will see better products become available.
Support the copycats and things will remain static.
This ends "The Fountainhead" 101 class for today.
Climbing off my soapbox now and looking forward to reporting on all the new elationebike items.
See you next time.
I spent an hour doing this last Saturday, pushed the preview button and it went off to cyber heaven. Just my luck I didn't save and all was lost. I will attempt to reconstruct this chapter but I don't think it will be quite the same. Here goes....
It's been near a month since my initial completion of the Blast ebike phase one. Of course the weather has been a mix of snow, wind and rain with around four half decent days thrown in. I've been using the Blast to go to the bank, post office and some for grocery getting, all in all the ebike portion has done what I have asked of it. Yet to try to crest any of the real killer hills but will attempt after a few more battery cycles and a bit more brush seating. The old girl seems to be getting more peppy with each mile. Break in I suppose. I still think the current version of the elation kit may need to be geared down for my application but I'll decide after attempting some serious hill climbs. Allan said to hold off on any mods for a month or four.
The rack installation went smoothly after I got some V brake pivot studs to screw the brackets to and made a couple of spacers to clear the frame and disc brake caliper. About a half inch one for the drive side and about one and three quarters inch on the brake side, installed down where the rack bolts to the drop outs. The rack legs were spread a bit to fit it. That rack is very solid and can handle the rated 60 pounds with ease. I don't have a proper set of bags yet so I bungie cord an old milk crate to it and fill it up. A typical load is a 20 pound kitty litter, gallon of milk, 12 pack of sodas plus the usual food stuffs. Loading it is made easier due to the Esge double leg stand, a rock solid combination. The stand is also a handy work stand as it holds the bike up quite well when servicing components.
I also trimmed the fender struts and this cleaned up the last of the loose ends. As for my Continental 26x2.1 Town and Country tires at around 25 mph I noticed a vibration and squirming sensation from the rear wheel on my last short hop. Got home and looked at the rear tire, yikes it had a separation and big lump after less than 300 miles. Not sure what to do about it. Replace it or replace both with something else. Think I'll see if Performance Bike will do a warranty swap before I decide. Disappointed in the tires to say the least!
Here's the accessory score card:
Old Man Mountain Red Rock rack and Esge double leg stand excellent heavy duty products. If you are in the market for either pay the extra and buy these, you won't be disappointed.
The Planet Bike Speed Ezee fenders are also quite functional and can be made to fit around disc brakes. Also a solid buy if you're looking for mud guards.
Nitto Albatross bars are comfortable and of excellent quality, if you ride upright, try them you'll like them, another good buy.
Ergo The Seat easy on the prostate and way better than the SDG Satellite wedgie I had on there. If you have a more sensitive behind maybe the lycra soft foam version would be better.
The Minoura Space grip is also a solid problem solver. You could use several of these to mount headlights, computers, tail lights and who knows what else.
The jury is still out on those tires though. Right now I'd give them a no buy recommendation due to the premature failure of the rear.
There you have it six keepers and one potential loser, use care in selecting your parts and save the receipts, just in case.
I still may add a drainbrain to get some objective data and a speedometer. Hopefully the weather will improve a bit so I can take her out and see what she can really do. After I replace the rear tire of course.
That's all for now.
Took the early part of the day to get the wire routing finished. No matter how I clocked them, the throttle and horn controls just wouldn't go around these integrated brake and shifter controls. So I just left them short and over the top. I'll work them out after I upgrade the shifters. The brake cut out switches also had 3 wires instead of the usual 2 and rather than figure out how to integrate them using a Magura 2 wire switch and custom bracket I took off the works. Just unplugged from the controller and removed them. Then I added shrink tube to all of the metal connector cases I could to reduce the chances of paint chips. That done I extended the motor wires and battery to controller wires. Zip tied the works after routing them and adding shrink tubing and viola.......installation of the elationebike kit, version 1.0 is now complete.
Gave the kitty litter screw top / drive chain guard a quick dusting with satin black paint and snapped on the finishing touch. The blue just clashed too much to be visually pleasing ( after looking at the snaps I think silver would be a better choice, oops one more thing to re do). Turned the key, blipped the throttle and ran her through the gears while on the Pletcher stand and it all seems to work. All in all the package is very unobtrusive and lets me still have a bicycle with a little help on the pedals. The Blast weighs 50 pounds now give or take a couple, that's including the 36V 10AH battery pack and motor, not bad.
The next thing to do is trim the excess from the fender struts now that I'm sure they are placed correctly, add the Old Man Mountain rack, find a decent mirror and phase one will be totally complete. Of course when I tried to quickly install the rack guess what ? No go as I have no V brakes just empty bosses with larger threaded plastic plugs in a larger threaded hole than the hole size in the bracket. I will have to measure it closely to see if I can just enlarge the existing hole and use a larger cap screw or if that will give me a case of break out on the end of the bracket. This Kona with it's higher end components seems to need modifications to install anything.
I also noticed during my last test ride that the Albatross bars had a tendency to rotate in the stem. Due to them not having a spline on the center. While I had the heat gun and shrink tube out I put a one inch piece on the center of the bars, problem solved, no rotation now.
I am planning on using it for a while to see what it can do and what needs help. If I had it to do over again I wouldn't change a thing. Due to the fact I got the bike free when I bought my car 7 years ago I have a decent ebike now for about the price of a Suede E but with much better quality components. That car now has 21,000 miles on it, probably rot before I use it up. Still, I'll be trying to further cut down my current rate of 10 gallons a month petrol purchase for all the previously non-discretionary car use. Most importantly though, I have made some new friends.
Hopefully this blog has provided some inspiration and shown some folks who may have been feeling short on equipment and or that they didn't have the skill or experience that they can do a conversion. You don't need a huge shop full of tools, only a modicum of patience and the desire. YOU CAN DO IT. Just plan on nothing fitting out of the box without modification and it taking five times as long as you think it should. Most of the extra time will be spent waiting for the UPS guy to bring you that one piece not available locally but needed to solve some unforeseen minor issue.
The Blast has now been converted from an abuser friendly downhill MTB to a fat tire city e roadster. Pee Wee Herman in the 21st century. If I could only find some of those cool hard bags,a trunk, handlebar streamers and..........
As my dear departed father in law used to say " I haven't had this much fun with my clothes on in a long time". Till next time, one elated Sturdly is signing off.
The bars and recabling weren't finished until Saturday. As usual what appears a minor change causes more things to deal with. In this case both mechanical and ebike kit related. First the mechanical, the Shimano pod Rapid fire shifters I took off the straight riser bars were not compatible with the Albatross bars. Problem being the cable fitting angle coming out pointed away from the bars meaning the cables would not route properly, would have shot out wider than the bars before making the turn, unacceptable. A quick trip to the used parts bin at the LBS and we came up with a pair of Shimano Acera integrated shifter and brake levers. This will do for now, but looks like I have a couple of fishing reels mounted as shifters and these are for v brakes so a pretty long throw before my disc brakes start to really grab. Usable but somewhat less than wonderful. Thinking a set of Pauls thumbies are in my future. The Minoura space grip works well and mounts the headlamp / controller front and center, clearing the stem clamp quite nicely. A nice problem solver that I recommend highly for a myriad of applications, this baby is solid and quite adjustable.
The electrical issue is a time sink to be sure. When Allan specced the wire lengths he obviously had straight bars with limited rise in mind as all but the battery to controller wires are waaay too short for my application. Having to use the Minoura space grip added to the extra length of these pull back bars and my Delta 4 inch riser made hook up marginal at best. No stress relief or even enough to route them properly. Time to break out the soldering iron, shrink tubing and stretch these to a length that will allow proper routing. Of course I took it for another test spin and those bars are worth any extra work, comfy to have the wrists and hands opposite each other. Reminded me of my old Sears 3 speed which I rode into the ground from '64 to '72.
This week I'll remove all the mechanicals, locktite and washer them properly as all seems to be in adjustment. I also ditched the V saddle clamp in favor of the resin mounting blocks as the motor mount torqued under load moving almost a quarter inch. ( You were right Allan but the Polish part of me just had to give the V saddle a go ). The resin blocks hold the motor mount nice and solid.
Then its time to get brave and start cutting, routing, lengthening wires and soldering. As you can see the brake levers are just wrapped around the bars currently with some blue tape holding them from flopping in the breeze. I still need to come up with a way to mount the cut outs though. My original plan was scuttled when I swapped out the Avid single digit brake levers. Time for another innovation I guess, or wait until I upgrade the shifters and put the single digits back on.
I think Trask was happy to see me pick it up. The Blast with the BB drive caused quite a stir, raised many questions and cut deeply into his work time at the LBS while parked waiting for the bar and cable job. Seems there is more than a bit of interest in this quite hilly part of Seattle. Probably a lot of talkers but just maybe I can turn some folks on to elationebiking.
Till next time ........... keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down.
The good weather and my curiosity got the better of me and I just had to give the Blast a test after getting the motor mounted and the drive chain sized. Went out and attached the throttle, slapped on the battery and put the rest of the controls in a plastic shopping bag hung from the handlebars. Figured I should try it before I took it in to get the new Albatross bars installed and fitted with cabling. Man, it was quite an enjoyable experience to finally try it under power.
The performance was better than I expected from that little motor and I am pleased with the decision to purchase this kit. However a few more issues popped up, no surprises there though.
1. The controller / headlight won't fit on the center of my bars due to interference with the stem clamp.
One more thing to buy, a Minoura space grip will get it mounted on center.
2. My car top bike rack rear clamp won't fit around the Continental fat boy 2.10 x 26 Town and Country tires.
I wanted a hitch and hitch mount bike rack anyway so one of those will be in my future.
3. The headlight came with a cracked lens.
Allan says he'll ship another but wants me to finish the installation and see if anything else needs replacing and he'll ship it all at once. Due I'm sure to the long distance postal rates from Oz to the US. Thanks Allan, good customer support is what I like.
4. The battery charger wouldn't charge the battery pack.
Looked closer at it and there is a switch that switches it from 115 to 240 volts. Took the back off of the charger and flipped the switch to 115. Replaced the back and it charged up the pack no problem.
I just got back from dropping off the Blast at Revolution Cycles, the LBS, and it should be ready to pick up on Wednesday the 31st along with the space bar. Yippie.
Short list of issues this post. The finish line is in sight and we'll be good to go by Spring including upgrades.
I just can't bring myself to use the supplied plastic brake levers and give up my Avid single digits. I'll have to work up a usable substitution as this will be used in Vancouver Canada from time to time and brake cut outs are required. Electric bikes are more common up there and some of the Politi know what to look for. Last time I was riding up there the Coppers had a roadblock set up on the bike lane and they were writing tickets for the helmetless riders. The cage drivers were whizzing along well above the speed limit, no roadblock for them though. Go figure........
Allan also sent me a basic digital camera to help with the posting of pictures.
A technical question has been sent a couple of times to the powers that be here but no answer yet. Can anyone tell me if I can delete the files from the upload area without having them disappear from my previous posts or do we have the 500 kb limit in total?????
What a miserable couple of weeks here in Seattle. Snow, wind storms, ice, more snow, this really is not safe cycling weather. Glad I've not gotten the Blast blasting or I might have tried something stupid like ice riding. The good news is that the V saddle clamp was a winner. Received it a few days or so ago but with the afore mentioned weather just getting to work and such took most of my free time, but Saturday I finally got back after the Blast.
Did a trial fit with the clamp and it looked like a go so I then took some time to cut up more leather and make all of the pads for the contact points of the frame and clamp, Then I took some shrink tubing and encased the v bolt with the exception of the thread area I will be using. Clamped on the mount no problem. Took it back off and inspected the frame, no pinching or crushing so I decided to finish up the motor installation.
Like any project I didn't have all needed so it took a trip to the LBS ( Revolution Cycle in North Seattle) for that new longer chain to compensate for the larger chain wheels and an extra master link so that I could use the chain I removed for the motor drive. Remember the one supplied was too short for my application. Once I installed the rear chain it was on to the motor drive chain resizing. I used a SRAM power link on my existing Shimano IG chain now used for motor drive at the suggestion of the LBS guy. No problem and reusable unlike the Shimano pins that need be broken off after insertion to lock them.
Really everything went so smoothly it was one giant anti climax. From here out it will be an easy install just like the web site says. http://www.elationebikes.com.au/ Had I been putting it on a comfort bike it would've taken a few hours, but hey half the fun is the hunt for the right stuff.
As I mentioned in my last chapter I ran across another issue and hinted at it when stating that recabling for the new Nitto Albatross handle bars would be needed. The issue is that my control cables run on the top of my top tube with no casing. Hang the battery pouch over the top tube and the rear brake drags, plus I have auto shift or no shift as the weight of the pack pulls the cables. While I was picking up my chain I talked to Trask the LBS bike wrench and he thinks that putting outer cabling on the exposed inner cables along the top tube will be enough to solve the problem. He also offered to re cable the whole bike for $10 per cable. Think I'll take him up on it as I don't have one of those fancy $30 cable casing cutters. If it doesn't work I've a couple ideas for fixes, either a double S bracket to support the pack and take the load off the cables or run a support like angle steel or half ( cut lengthwise) of a piece of ABS pipe over the top tube making a false top. Then again I may just hang it from the front down tube even though the forks hit the pack when turned very sharply left.
Until next time, over and out.
Santa was good to me, no coal, instead an Old Man Mountain Red River rack and some Rivendell spec Nitto Albatross bars. Both will make top quality additions to the Blast....sweet! Thanks Santa.
Then back to reality. It's been a long week of waiting for ordered parts. In addition to the clamps for the ebike project I'm waiting for a burner switch for the cook top and a new dash board for the better half's car, oh yeah those don't count here, oops. None will arrive until next week sometime.
I did complete all of my motor mount machining, took a while using only a drill and files but turned out ok. Not exactly laser cut accurate but not embarrassing to show either. That done I decided to take advantage of the nice weather and take the bike for some test miles to see how the street conversion pieces held up. Glad I did as there were the usual issues involved. Can't wait to do this under elationebike power.
First item was the Planet bike Speed Eze front fender. Over bumps and the like it flopped around something fierce. It was mounted as the manufacturer specified with a tie strap acting as the very front mounting attachment. This proved unsatisfactory on two counts. First the movement and second due to my disc brake the wheel sits a bit off center so the fender did not cover one side very well. Back to the garage where I made a L bracket, aligned and attached the fender with bracket, nuts and screws. Tie strap was tossed into the trash. So much for quick R&R capability. Problem solved now, full tire coverage and no annoying flopping or tire scrubbing. I still need to trim the fender brace ends but may need to make further adjustments so that won't happen until I'm satisfied they are right.
Second item was the Esge double leg stand. When deployed and then retracted a few times it wants to twist and will eventually unscrew. This due to the aluminum ribs not being strong enough to bite into the stainless motor mount and keep it in place. For this I'll drill and pin it to the motor mount once final adjustment is achieved.
The small rear stand mount area.
The hardware build up of the Esge stand and motor mount.
The almost final mock up of the hardware build up and motor mounted to frame. Will be finalized once I decide upon a front clamp.
As for the front clamp I'm pinning my hopes on the V saddle clamp, the brown leather belt and some heavy duty shrink tubing. Since DX Engineering had a $20 minimum I went ahead and ordered a couple sizes of resin mounting blocks as a fall back. Just in case the V clamp doesn't spread the load enough.
The next report should be the finalized motor mounting. After that I'll unwrap the controller, levers and wire harness and hopefully get the initial installation completed. I've also identified one more mod I'll need to make to accommodate the elation ebike kit but that will be added in a future installment. (Hint) Lets just say the Nitto bars will mean re-cabling as the current flat bar cables are too short so might as well take care of it and the ebike issue all at once.
In the mean time the good news is that the brown leather belt yielded a few inches to use as frame protection padding and is now too short to hang myself with. That only leaves two potential answers to the multiple choice question.
It has certainly been a memorable week or so. Hurricane type windstorm, the holidays and an ultra busy time at work. All have limited the time I could devote to the project at hand. Then again stepping away for a bit allowed me to get a fresh perspective and whittle away at the issues list.
Check out my proposed solutions,
A quick list of issues follows:
I. Down tube angle does not match angle of motor mount.
Solution: add a .25 inch spacer between motor mount and chain stays. This spaces the mount and allows attachment without bending the bracket.
II. Supplied 2 inch round u clamp is not appropriate for this application.
A. Oval down tube is 2.25 x 1.25 inches = u bolt too short and too wide.
B. Round contact surfaces not a close enough match to distribute the clamping force allowing tube damage.
Solution: I have found a V saddle clamp at a radio antenna supply house that will fit the frame down tube and spread the load to four points. I will now have to increase the size of at least one of the slots in the motor mount to accommodate the smaller clamp, DXE-CAVS-1P. See it at DX Engineering
III. Starting a 3.5 " bolt in the kick stand sandwich is near impossible due to derailer/ fender clearance.
Temporary solution: Move derailer mount further up the seat tube until the bolt is started.
Long term solution: Install a stud in the kick stand and only have to start a nut in the tight space. I can always use the old rubber hose trick to do this if my fingers can't do the job. Rubber hose trick is to put the nut in the end of an appropriately size hose or spark plug boot and use is as a combination extension and universal joint. Start and tighten the nut as much as possible, then pull off the boot or rubber hose. Finish tightening with the appropriate wrench.
IV. The motor mount must be cut or mounted farther forward than designed for.
A. Forward mounting would be best as I may want to transfer the mount to a regular frame in the future.
1. Forward mounting also gives more leeway in alignment due to added chain length.
a. Added required chain length means the supplied drive chain will not fit, it's just too short.
Solution: Using the spacer I can install the mount to full forward position and no cutting. This will of course mean chain adjustment will have to be made mostly by adding full or half links.
V. The kick stand mounting slot on the bracket is off center to align with a stock frame kick stand mounting tab. I need a slot in the center of the bracket to match up with my Esge stand and allow it to clear the rear tire and not stick out so far as to interfere with the crank arm.
Solution: Drill a hole in the center of the bracket making the slot L shaped. Since I am planning on adjusting the drive chain mostly by adding links enlarging the entire slot will not be necessary.
As I stated when first starting, I don't have access to a machine shop so all of my motor mount modifications will be made with a hand electric drill motor and/or file. I this proves unsatisfactory the purchase of a cheapo electric die grinder will be in order.
In the mean time I'll get some pictures processed, ( not in possession of a digital camera yet ) posted and collect the necessary stuff to move on to the mount installation. This will include ordering the clamp from DX Engineering so it will be a bit. Plenty of time to drill and file on the mount.
Chapter V will be my pictures mostly, if I can get them to post. If not Board Moderator has offered an assist so it will get done. I took a roll already but got a bit carried away with the side lighting, back drops and shadow effects. In other words they stunk, I'll do it again, hopefully right this time.
As always any comments are quite welcome. :)
Happy New Year a bit early.