Brake Swap

Did mine today. Took about an hour.

Tools required:- 2 & 4mm Allen keys or driver bits, medium (no 2) phillips screwdriver or driver bit, 12mm ring spanner or socket, lots of rag or tissue paper, mildy soapy water in a squirty bottle (at least a litre with more on hand if necessary i.e. a tap!) Small can (500ml) of NEW Dot 4 brake fluid and a brake bleeding kit (or 400mm piece of suitable plastic tube and a clean jar).

Remove handlebar top cover (bottom cover can stay in situ) by loosening the 2 x 2mm allen head screws (A) (don't undo them completely), removing the 2 x phillips head screws (B) and the 2 x phillips head screws (C).

The top cover will pop off with a little gentle prising.

Now you can see the ends of both brake lines and the 'banjo' fitting that connects them to the brake master 'cylinder' (and lever) (D). Check the master cylinder to see how much brake fund is in there. If it is any more than a little you would be better off draining the fluid off on each circuit (line) via the bleed nipple on the respective brake calliper as the reservoir will drain out everywhere when you undo the banjo.

If you can be bothered, wrap something around the electrical connecters to keep water out (see later).

Otherwise (as in my case) stuff some rag under the banjo to soak up the brake fluid and undo it - it's pretty tight. Prevent the master cylinder unit rotating on the handle bar by holding firmly with one hand as you do this. If it moves you'll have to slacken its 4mm allen screws and adjust it back again.

As your remove the banjo, don't lose the copper washer...

...and keep these bits clean. Mop up any spilt brake fluid immediately and flush well with mildly soapy water. Brake fluid will eat lots of things very efficiently, especially paint.

Once both lines are disconnected swap their positions where they emerge from the front of the handlebar mount cowling. I found that both lines would rotate enough to reposition the banjos with a only a little twisting of the lines. If your don't you may have to rotate the banjos at the callipers too.

Obviously, ideally re-mount them on their new master cylinder so that turning the steering reduces the twist rather than making it twist more. I found using a socket in a handle helped to line the banjo up with the master cylinder to avoid crossing the threads. You must not cross the threads or you will cause serious problems possibly necessitating the replacement of the master cylinder.

Once both lines are re-attached, bleed both lines through the callipers with new Dot 4 brake fluid. (I haven't done mine yet, so more to come!)

Reassemble the steering cover and clean everything up. Job done.

Sorry - messed up my photos (isn't there a way to edit posts on VifV posts?).

The last photo shows the 2 banjo joints and should be marked 'D' (and should be near the top)!

I'll post all this on my own web site with higher res photos soon. winlowdotcodotuk. MW

Well done.....it'll be one of the best things you've ever done.