Has anyone modified a China Brushless Hub Motor Controller to increase performance?

Is this a particular model, or just Chinese brushless controllers in general?
Either way, you can upgrade almost any of them unless they're potted.

`
I'd say in general.
I have a Luyuan, which also mfg the MOTORINO brand sold by http://www.e-ride.ca/
This is my Controller

Electric diagram from the Luyuan Electric Bike Manual

Peace Out,
Gman

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Peace Out,
Gman

I haven't seen the insides of that particular model, but if you open it up and check the numbers on the parts, you can determine how much voltage / current it can safely take. The FETs can be upgraded for increased power, but that's a fair amount of work. Most of these controllers use a shunt to measure the current, and the shunt can be modded to increase the current limit. You just need to check the parts ratings so you don't just blow it up the first try.

Plan b would be to get a Crystalyte controller. I'm hoping that modified versions of these will be available soon.

`Fechter,
Thanks a lot, do you have a link or model number for the Crystalyte controller in plan b?

Peace Out,
Gman

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There are a few places that sell them. Here's two:
http://www.powerpackmotors.com/
http://www.ebikes.ca/store/

`
Fechter thanks again, but I'm still a newby at doing any kind of mods. What am I looking for? I see several Controllers and don't know which one I should get. I probably want one that can go over 48 volts, just in case I latter increase my voltage. A model number etc would really help.

Peace Out,
Gman

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Peace Out,
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The 72v, 35amp ones are the best. Somewhere they sell a 40 amp one. The 36v, 48v, and 72v versions are essentially the same except for the low voltage cutout.

There are other retailers.

`Fechter
Thanks again.
I have a Brushless CPU Controlled Motor and Pulse-Width Modulated Controller, and wanted to know what they exactly were and how they work, but I think I figured it how based on the explanation Chas gave me.
I'd really like to see a EV Collaborative Hand Books on both, for those of us that don't know Jack. It really helps a person understand what is or isn't possible, and how they are suppose to work.

Peace Out,
Gman

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Peace Out,
Gman

If you want to make the scooter go faster, I would suggest figuring out exactly what the rating of the existing controller is.
This means using an ammeter or DrainBrain type thing to actually measure the current while under load. The system voltage is easier to determine.

Next, (being cheap), I would open up the stock controller and look up the part numbers on the big parts and try to determine if there's any headroom in the ratings. Many times a controller can be modified for more output without blowing up. Many times it can't.

`
I plan on doing that today, and try and take some pictures. I also requested a wiring schematic from Luyuan, not holding my breath for it though.
There is a XDY48V041110595 number on the Controller, everything else is in Chinese.

Peace Out,
Gman

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Peace Out,
Gman

`
Well Luyuan sent me this, and is asking if I need more.

FWIW, If I understood him correctly, both will handle over 48 Volts? I asked what it would handle, so that seems to have gotten lost in the translation.

Peace Out,
Gman

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Gman

I love the transration.

What I gather from that datasheet is the motor is a 48v, and limited to something less than 15 amps.
I can see why you might want to boost that.

You could ask them for a schematic of the controller. A schematic of the insides, not just the hookup diagram. I doubt they would ever release that even if they had it, but it's worth asking.

If you have a drainbrain or some kind of ammeter, you could measure the actual current under acceleration. I would trust this 100 times more than their stated specs.

Next step in my book is to open up the controller and check out the innards.

For what it is worth, I did modify a Cheap chinese controller that looks a lot like yours and basically, I got a lot more speed and usability out of it. A poster named Mathurin up in Canada did it first but he blew his to smitthereens, Ahhh to be young again. HOWEVER, I have to be careful not to allow it endless current draw like up a mean hill. I did blow it up once just taking the worst hill in down and let it load down to 5 mph when it popped... melted a solder trace. I am careful now to pedal on the bad hills and I am fat so I need the exercise anyway. I have been riding this thing a couple of times a week for the last 9 months and it has been a blast.. Whole setup was 150 bucks plus 40 for shipping. Been a great introduction to ebiking. Will probably go the Crystalite route next time.

Note how thin the solder was on the power traces.

First attempt at the Mathurin mods.

On the Coil and sensor wiring replaced connectors with Molex .092 for the coil and .06 for the signal wires.

Close up of controller mounting

A little cleaner installation

Underside of controller. Could be cleaned up some more but it is better than before.

Basically your doubling the size of the current shunt and fattening the traces to the FET's. The experts on here can advise you. The whole premise is probably not real wise but I have had a great return for my efforts. YMMV!!!!!!!

Before you mod the controller you'll need to decide what kind of performance increase you want.

More amps = better acceleration/hill climbing. The limitation of the motor is that there is 4 times as much energy in heat for double the amps, or the amps squared in heat energy to dissipate.

More voltage = higher top speed, and possibly better hill climbing/acceleration when the current limit is not being met, i.e., a not-so-steep hill, or better acceleration in the upper speed range.

You can also increase the controller voltage and lower the gearing to get better acceleration/hill climbing without increasing the amps and this would make the motor run cooler.

If you don't care about your controller, or will buy a new one if it blows up than you could try a small voltage increase. There are 2v, and 6v batteries available which you could add in your series string to the controller input. The controller might still give a decent life. This could be the easiest mod requiring no controller work. I'd recommend doing this first if you are considering buying a new controller anyway. Though the current looks like it might be a bigger limitation. And the added battery will have to be charged separately.

Oh, and you could just add a controller bypass contactor to increase the amperage on the hills.

---
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My KZ750 Project: here

KZ750 Motorcycle Conversion
900 watt scooter
Pic from http://www.electricmotorbike.org/

`andrew,
Luyuan said I could safely increase it to about 60 volts, and I have a total of 96 volts available if I use both the main and the auxiliary so it's no problem getting the 60 volts. I only need it for hills, otherwise I'm comfortable just lugging along. The newer models come with a boost button, so if it works I'll install this.

DUAL SPEED RANGE
The new E-Ride speed controller is capable to provide two speed ranges with our brushless motor.
Select your speed range with a push of a button. With the new CPU controlling system you can switch between 0 ? 22 km/h for torque mode when riding uphill and 0 ? 32 km/hr high speed mode for flat

FWIW, a replacement Controller is about $60.00, so if I smoke it I can get another one.

Peace Out,
Gman

What is your vision for the future our growing community?

Peace Out,
Gman

heh, that reminds me of the other EVT 60v mod. This would result in a 56% increase in power on the flat, provided the current limit isn't met. On the hills you might not get better performance because of the current limit. In that case a gearing change might help, or just open the controller and add some wire or something to the little shunt it uses to decrease the resistance and fool its current measurement.

---
Avatar taken from http://www.electricmotorbike.org/
My KZ750 Project: here

KZ750 Motorcycle Conversion
900 watt scooter
Pic from http://www.electricmotorbike.org/

Hi all. My first post here but I've been watching for a bit. This thread looked as close as I could find to my question.

I've put a few hundred miles on my Wilderness Energy 36v brushed kit. Fun, but I've come to the popular conclusion that more would be merrier. Lots of googling tells me the motor should be okay beyond 48v, which is my target. I have additional batteries but am looking for confidence. I have not been able to find one of these controllers opened up online. It's different from the one in this thread.

I opened it up. There are six rectifiers on one side. They're almost completely hidden but those I can identify are irf3205's. There are definitely different markings on a couple of the others. Not sure if they're equivalent. The irf3205 datasheet says 55v operating.

There's another hidden rectifierish thing on the other side but the package looks quite different.

There are caps which I think I can just parallel for margin. ??

The regulator is a DIP KA3525A which fairchild rates for an absolute supply of 40v. This seems like a stumbling block.

I considered ordering a Crystalyte but the brushed model is out of stock everywhere. I thought maybe some kind of resistor for the throttle to keep things ~36V, then a controller bypass for 48v direct? Don't know what parts would make that work without sparks though.

Any thoughts for a guy on a budget?

Thanks.

Here is what I did: Simple and useful.
pictures and schematics are included

http://www.cenap.4t.com/photo_1.html

From 48 volts to 72 and from 28 mph to 38
The only down fall is when going for a ride fresh off the charger, I have to feather
the throttle cuz at 82.7 volts , the 75 volt max mosfets just cant take it