Completely rebuilt and esthetically perfect Electric AC FZR LiFePO4 Garnet Red Sparkle Battery Array Hi-Power and A123!

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JordanRock
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Joined: 11/18/2008
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Hi! You are viewing a custom built electric motorcycle. I built the bike out of a Yamaha FZR600 frame. I tore down the whole bike, sandblasted everything, and renewed all bearings, brakes, grease, fluids, rubbers, and electronics. I will give you a detailed break down of each sub-system of the bike, and hopefully answer any questions you may have in advance. The machine is fully registered and insured in the state of California. I am prepared to ship the vehicle, but of coarse you will have to pay for the handling as I will have to build a crate and transport it.

The performance of the bike is comparable to a 400CC twin. It pulls right our of turns, and is generally fun to ride. It will go up to 30 miles at low speeds and about 15 miles on the highway. It's top speed is around 80MPH. It is much lighter than stock, and the sportbike frame is well matched with the driveline. People stop and stare when you roll up to a light and the bike is completely silent, with all the lights on.

I've ridden the bike twice, and, like any one-off electronic device, I've run into the "d" for development of my r&d. This machine is for someone who wants to get their hands in there and learn about electric vehicles, as I have. It cost me $10,000 to build the bike. The only problem with it is the hi-power pack of batteries. There are two cells that are blown, and I have one replacement on hand. They cost about $100 each. It would cost you $2000 to replace completely, which is why my reserve is $8000, but chances are you will only need to replace the two cells.

Batteries:

There is a battery array! That means that there are 24 cells in series X 3 cells in parallel, a total of 72 cells in the bike. The main string of cells are hi power brand, 3.2V nominal and 50Ah each. Connected to each of those are two A123 brand cells, 3.2 nominal and 2.4Ah each. Altogether, the smaller cells act like capacitors, due to thier fast charge and discharge rate. The larger capacity cells carry the main brunt of the bike's draw, but the smaller cells help the bike when you twist! They all charge and discharge together.

BMS:

I built the BMS using a board I ordered from TP packs. It is a charging/discharging BMS with LVC (low voltage cutout). It works by shunting the charge current when is senses any one pack topping up to 3.69V during charging. When all cells have fully topped off, a FET latches off, shutting off the charger. The BMS also dips the throttle electronically during discharge to protect individual cells from over-discharge.

Controller:

Curtis 300A AC induction. I had it programmed but something is needs further dialing in. You might want to consider buying the kit to re-program it yourself. It can be a secondary point of protection for the pack because it can fade back the throttle at a predetermined voltage point. It has a whole bunch of features, I can include the manual for you so that you can decide what features you want to use. The controller has a display unit that is mounted where the speedo cluster used to be. It displays speed, voltage, amperage, etc. The button to scroll through parameters is located next to it, where you would want it to be.

Motor and driveline:

AC Induction motor, designed by Nicoli Tesla, built by high-performance golf cart in Ontario, CA. 30kW peak. #525 chain with a 12 tooth front sprocket and a 68 tooth rear. The chain makes a light buzz but it is as good as it gets so I'm told.

Charger:

90V, 10A Charger. It takes about 5-6 hours to fully charge the bike. And guess what? The charge wire comes out of the gas tank cap! It took me forever to find a cap that fit right and worked the way I wanted it too, impress your friends when your "gas" comes out of an outlet. I used to have the charger in the bike, but now that there is a battery array, the charger has to live outside the machine. It is small enough to fit in your backpack, and for good reason too: it is the only component that is not waterproof!

Frame:

I painted everything with several coats of high quality paint, base coat primer red, color coat garnet red sparkle, and a top gloss coat. The wheels are sprayed with a high quality metal paint in almond. There are brand new Avon tires, with a harder rubber compound and a slightly thinner rear tire to reduce loss at the ground. The seat is recovered with real lamb skin treated to look like mink. There is a DC-DC converter to run all the lights, which all work, I built an LED rear signal and replaced all turn signals with brand new LED signals. The horn is a "toot toot" type from an old BMW. The mirrors are new and in a creatively placed position. The windshield was built by me from a piece of smoke colored acrylic. The wheel bearings have all been replaced with genuine yamaha parts. The same goes for the brake pads.

This bike is sold as is. Like I said before, you will need to do some fiddling with the electronic parts to get it going. Everyone I have worked with has tried to convince me not to sell the bike. Everyone loves it, I've had it in some articles and it is definately a special machine. The reason I am selling it is that it just does not go far enough for me as I now live outside the city. This bike would be perfect, and reliable for someone who lives in a small city. Please e-mail me with any questions you may have about the bike not answered here.

www.electricboogiefzr.blogspot.com

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