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My 2007 VX-1 just died

Hello,
My VX-1 decided to become lifeless. I have been away for an extended time and when coming back home I plug-in my VX1 and nothing happens. No life at all. Display does not lit up. The scooter had been charged up at least twice while I was gone (5 months). Can anyone give me clue as to where to start looking for problems? Could the charger be dead?

Vectrix only goes 20 miles

Hi my names Kevin and i have a vectrix 13 plate Lithium and im having problems with regards the quoted distance of 50 60 miles, im only getting at best 20 to 22 mlis, could any body point me in the right direction as to what i should be checking ? have I got some bad cells if so how hard is it to remove all to find the Batteries and again can you change bad ones out easilly.
thanks for any help.
kevin

Vectrix lithium distance problem

Hi my names Kevin and i have a vectrix 13 plate Lithium and im having problems with regards the quoted distance of 50 60 miles, im only getting at best 20 to 22 mlis, could any body point me in the right direction as to what i should be checking ? have I got some bad cells if so how hard is it to remove all to find the Batteries and again can you change bad ones out easilly.
thanks for any help.

kevin

Battery balancing of Silicon

Has any Body heard of powerchegs or smartspark systems that are used to monitor batteries in balance , I'm looking for a system to keep my Silicon batters in balance and would appreciate any help on the subject.

Tham
Nukes kevin

elevatorguy's picture

electric vehicle builds

mhomoney.blogspot.com
lithiumvectrix.blogspot.com

Selling my VX-1 NiMh bike in San Diego

Not sure what year it is and I need to get the VIN but I'm posting this now to see if there is any interest on this Forum. Vectrix gave me this bike to use while the factory fixed my Li bike. My Vectrix contact said they put in a used NiMh pack although the rear fenders say VX-1 Li+. It runs and charges but only gets a couple of bars above half-way. Odometer shows about 1020 miles. It is it perfect shape and would probably make an ideal Li conversion candidate. If you know of anyone interested, please PM me or email at dandiego92112@yahoo.com. Thanks!
DanDiego

kevin smith's picture

Ideas on how to fix the dreaded....RED FLASHING lights of battery and sensor lights

Hi all hope you guys are all well .?
i have been stuck out in the cold british weather and raining bad!!!!
awating to be collectrd by truck.n traler to take me home the..... dreaded red lights came on just b4 i left to go to town battery and sensor lights :-(
so when i came to pick scooter up all dash lights on but scooter wouldnt start at all ..
is there a simple way of fixing these probblems that seem to blyt a lot of VECTRIX owners my scooter has 13,500 miles aprox on it
and around these miles they seem to have the odd gremlings i think...
so if you han help in any way please feel free to advise me on simplest and cheapest way to fix ..

i have been away for a wile been busy fitted log burner/stove and also had 3.6Kwh system fitted and also a 32amp car charger fitted to home
but 2012 model wont accsept yet 32amp ?? i wonder if theres a upgrade
yet??
for hopfully soon ?????? a 21012 model nissan leaf white would be first choice or second sky blue 0 to 15,000 miles would ok great condition
so looking at moment my partner not overley convinced as yet , so i will keep looking for a good second hander????

thanks guys
kevin

YAVLiC - BMS blues

Last week the kit including the BMS arrived. No circuit or wiring diagrams, just a pile of parts. Hmmm...

The BMS consists of a module for each battery cell and a "control unit" if you can call it that.

The BMS components are from EV-Power. Here is a link: EV Power cell module.

The "control unit" seems to consist of a few relays and a butchered plugpack which floats around in the box. It seems that I am supposed to connect the mains to the Vectrix charger through this box. As far as I can determine without tracing the tracks on the PCB, it is supposed to switch off the mains when the battery is charged.

BMS-CM-sml.jpg

BMS Module Testing

Since I am not going to entrust a $4000 battery to a pile of components which I don't understand, I started by testing the BMS modules. I hooked up the modules to a Lab power supply. A Fluke multimeter was connected via separate leads directly to the module and a second multimeter was used to indicate the state of the Solid State Relay (SSR) on the module. Like this:
BMS-modules-testing20130826.jpg

It took about 2 hours to measure all 42 modules. Here is the data:
BMS-modules-data_0.jpg
BMS-modules-data2.jpg

  • VLL is the cell voltage lower limit (LL). Below this voltage, the SSR goes open circuit.
  • Vth is the threshold at which the module starts to shunt some of the charging current through itself. I measured the voltage at which the module starts to draw more than 10mA.
  • VUL is the cell voltage upper limit (UL). Above this voltage, the SSR goes open circuit as well.
  • IUL is the shunt current drawn by the module at VUL.

In retrospect, I should have also recorded the shunt current at maximum allowable battery voltage which is 3.65V for the CALB CA66Fi cells. However, the current rises rapidly from Vth and reaches around 0.5A at Vth+10mV.

The only parameter which approaches a normal distribution is Vth. For the other parameters the production process seems to be less well controlled.

A significant worry is VUL. As can be seen from the measured values, VUL is 3.965V (average). This is 0.315V higher than the maximum allowed as per the battery datasheet. This is also the voltage at which the SSR switches to open circuit (OC).

However, the real worry is that the control unit does not know when the first cell has reached it's maximum voltage and the BMS module starts shunting current. By the time the SSR switches to open circuit, at least one cell will have been cooked for a while.

The maximum shunt current achieved by the BMS modules is 0.8A, some only get to 0.73A.
I don't think that shunting 0.8A when charging with 10A or 15A is going to make much of a difference to a cell.

How it ought to work

To properly manage the battery and to be able to equalize the pack, the charging system needs to have at least 3 states:

  1. Nominal charging, e.g. C/4 until the first cell reaches the maximum allowable charging voltage and the BMS module starts to shunt current. The chain of SSRs must go open circuit at this time.
  2. Equalization phase. The battery charger reduces the charging current to a value not much higher than what the BMS modules can shunt, in this case 0.8A or maybe 1A.
  3. Charge complete. When the battery pack reaches VBatt = N × 3.65V, all BMS modules should be shunting current and all cells should be at SOC = 100%. The charger reduces the current to 0A.

A "real" charger should of course also have a state for the case where the initial VBatt is below the lower limit, timeouts, alarms, etc...

Conclusion

I have the wrong BMS modules. They might be designed for cells which have a Vmax=4.0V (maybe Thundersky?). They also switch at the wrong time.
The modules don't seem to be suitable for the cells I have because:

  1. The modules don't indicate when the first cell has reached Vmax and shunting starts.
  2. The SSR switches at the wrong woltage for my cells.
  3. By the time the module's SSR switches, at least one cell (but probably many) will have been cooked for a while with nominal charging current minus 0.8A

Grrr...

YAVLiC - Fitting the Li battery 2

I am trying to figure out how to fit the battery. The original plan was to put 32 cells arranged as 2 rows of 16 in the bottom of the battery compartment. However, they don't fit.
At the rear, welding lugs from the frame's rear casting are protruding. I am prepared to grind some of that away to make the cells fit side by side.
Battery-InterferenceRear.jpg

The interference at the front is more problematic:
Battery-InterferenceFront.jpg
I am not going to attack the frame with a big hammer or a hydraulic jack and I won't grind away material from the frame's tubing.

Well, adversity is the mother of all innovation... So now I will be able to fit 33 cells instead of 32! See:
33CellsInbottomLayer.jpg

The whole pack will probably be arranged like this:
ConfigurationOfWholePack.jpg

YAVLiC - Fitting the Li battery

Received the battery. 42 CALB CA66Fi cells, 66Ah. 32 of them go into the battery compartment standing up as 2 rows of 16 and the remaining 10 will be stacked flat on top, most of them where the impellers used to be. Unfortunately the supplier forgot to send the interconnects. Next week then...

Battery cooling

I have satisfied myself that forced cooling will no be necessary with the cells I bought. As a contingency however, I have a plan B which will use conduction instead of forced convection. 2mm aluminium sheets between the cells would serve as the heat conductors. They would be thermally coupled to the bottom of the battery compartment. For the cells stacked horizontally, I would have to come up with a heatsink – maybe the plastic sides of the battery compartment could be replaced with aluminium sheet...

Battery mechanical fitting

I could not fit the cells side by side where the frame welds are. Some of the protruding welds will therefore have to be ground down by about 1 mm. Also interfering is the bracket for the rear temperature monitoring board and a rivet in the front center of the battery compartment. While I am at it, the big ventilation holes will also need to be covered – this will stop the battery from getting a shower when I ride in the rain.



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