Company YKsuccess has a 800watt 48volt hub motor, controller, and tire with tube for $340 some dollars. That includes air mail from china. It took ab amazing four days to get here. It's perfect! I bought another battery from Xtreme ( just the batteries ) and mounted them under the seat. It's a tight fit but they fit. Then I solders a plug from the pwr supply of an old computer (they're the same as on the battery) onto the new batteries so I can use the same charger, and useing the female pwr cord from that old PC, I wired the old battery to the new battery in parallel so as to keep the 48 v but increase my amps to a 40 amp nominal rating. My 700Li goes almost 30mph even up 8 to 10 % grades. It's wonderful. I can still take out both battery packs and charge them or leave them in and charge them.
Now for the head lights. I used luxeon rebel stars. They are 500 lumens each, they were bought from ledsupply.com. I also bought the small sq heatsinks for them the have self adhesive thermal tape on them so the rebels just stick right to them. I also bought from thunderstorm.Com a 48v to 12 v converter to use. Now what I did was to cut the existing white bulb mounting brkt in hal. And mount the rebel stars right inside of it. They fit perfectly , I couldn't believe it , then just twist mount them back into place, wire them to the converter that was wired to the old lights ( I connected both hot wires for low and high beams together ) and use the gnd wire from only one buld. DON'T LOOK INTO THESE BULBS!! they are killer bright.
Ill try to attach pics soon.
Another mod is the windshield. I'm 6 foot 1 inch so I sit on the back of the seat so that puts me well above the stock windshield of the 700Li.
Solution: Buy a sheet of polycarbonate (Lexan) and make my own. I first cut a rough size that I copied from the stock one. cut it out on the band saw. My limitation was the size of my oven. Diag. my oven will fit a 26.5 inch piece so that's how big my windshiend is. Which is only 6 inches higher but that's all I needed. Next I PRE heated my oven to 400 degrees, then I TURNED OFF THE OVEN and place my cut polycarbonate in it for about 4 - 5 min. that's it. pulld it out and applied pressure on the sides to achive a slight curve to it. then I made a jig and using a heat gun heated up the bottom edge and bent it around my jig. cut off some of the extra lexan from bend, drilleed my holes and mounted. I used the stock windshild to make my jig. check out the pics
Also I used part of the shipping packaging to make a carrier for my tool box and other stuff. at least my 700Li came with some 1/8" x 3/4" strapping (metal) material so I figured I could recycle the stuff. see included pics
Thanks for the writeup! For my windshield, I just cold bent it, since the curve I needed wasn't so great. I tried heat bending some samples, but I never got confident enough to risk a full sheet of lexan in the oven.
Hello all, sorry I havent posted in a while,been busy with different projects including my Amped/Juiced riders test bike! pics to follow! Hey Dave, I need more info on the 700 mods!
Yea Randel which MOD do you need info about. I'll have to take some pictures of the lights if you need them. I really can't believe how easy it was to do this mod. But it did cost me about , if I remember , like $25+s&h for 48v to 12v converter,
Endor Star 300 Lumen 3 Up 7007-PWC-10-3 2 16.36
2 x Pre-Mounted Rebel Cool White LEDs on a 20mm Tri-Star Base - 540 lm
(MR-WC100-20T) = $55.64
2 x PowerPuck 700mA DC LED Driver (With Leads) (2008B-700) = $42.64
3-Up EndorStar Medium DB-OPML-3-025 2 4.99
AND THE approx 2" SQ adhesive backed heatsinks. I can't find the order form for the price but I think the entire price for everything was approx $125.00
REMEMBER; DON'T LOOK INTO THE LIGHTS!
The polycarbonate came from USPLASTIC.com
Item # Qty Qty U/M Item Price Disc % Disc Price Extended Price Item Description
43017 1 Sheet $21.77 $21.77 $21.77 Polycarbonate 24" x 48" 1/16" Thick
Order Subtotal $21.77
Shipping and Handling $8.57
OrderTotal (USD) $30.34
this is enough for one f@(;ck up and one perfect one.
Email me and I can send you copies of these pics
Hope some of this might help.
Very cool! I looked around YKsuccess's site but didn't see the motor/tire combo you mentioned. What model is it?
they made one up for me. They make a 800 watt hub motor 10" rim so I think they just slapped the hub motor in a 16" rim. From manufacturing point of view this would be the way to go 'cause they'd only have to made several type of components instead of hundreds. Anyway. Be sure to ask for it in detail including drum brakes. Now I didn't say anything about the pedaling gear attached to the right side and I was cursing myself but when It got here there was threads for the gear. Unbelieveable! But great. So I took the one off the old hub and WOW! it actually threaded right on the 800 watt hub. The entire assy looks very similar to the one that's on the 700Li already so I think it came from the exact same manufacturer. The rims design is almost exactly the same too so it will look 'stock' when your done.
Anyway the contacts name is Sue. That's what I ask for and here's her response;
Thanks for your reply.
the 48v 800w 550rpm 16'' sample price is $90/pc.the tire is $10/pc.the controller is $30/pc.
the air cost for one set is $188. OUCH!!!!
If you pay by T/T,you should pay $30 more as bank commission,if you pay by western union,you don’t need pay that.
PS If you figure out the 550rpms to actual mph it comes to 26.18mph but my baby goes over 27 mph and I'm 190 pounds (winter weight) and fully winter garbed and carrying my 28 pound toolbox for work. I'd bet mine would easily do 29mph at full charge.
PSS my controller for this unit was assembled hastily and wasn't being heatsinked properly so I had to adjust mounting of PCB inside the controller so SCRs would have better heat transfer to the heatsink (cover). Easy to do. This prevents controller from cutting off when full throttle is applied (most of the time).
I payed by Western Union, the transfer cost $45 or so.
Excellent! I was wondering about that pedaling gear. Nice to know it just unscrews,... and threads for it on the new one?? Nice!!
This sounds like a perfect upgrade motor.
I'm a little confused about the 16" rim though. My XB-508 has a 12" diameter rim, even though the tire is marked 16-3.0
In looking at the specs on x-treme's site, it states:
XB-508 - Tire Size: 16x2.5 on 16" Inch Aluminum Wheels
XB-700li - Tire Size: 16" x 3.0" on Aluminum Wheels
In fact all the XB series are listed as 16" wheels. So my question is, what is the actual diameter of the rim you received? What size is the tire marked?
2nd question: How much clearance does your 700li have between the rear forks where the motor slides in? Was there room to spare or tight fit? The forks on mine have 6-1/4" gap between them, will it fit? (Fingers crossed.) The slot on the forks where the axle slides in is about 3/8". (Will grind wider if need be.)
The specs for wheel assy are measured by the max. Dia of the tire not the rim. Yes my rim is actually about 12" OD. I had a shock wave run through my head to when I was ordering my assembly too. Don't worry it'll be right. If you need to know my tire states "16x3" also. 2nd Q. Was about the spacing between mounting points. If you look or at least mine has spacer washers on each side to 'eat up' any gap. For a smooth ride as with a regular bicycle too it's extremely important to make sure the front and back wheels are on the same plane. It's easy to see on my pro series bicycle ( because the tires are only 19 mm wide) if the wheels are on the same plane by simply riding through a puddle of water and ride as straight a line as possible. Now look at the marks on the road your tires left. If you only see one tire track that means your tires ar running on the same plane. If you see two tire tracks then they have to be adjusted. Your vehicle/bike will have to fight itself which will result in shaking and/or a wierd handling effect. So make sure your tire is mounted correctly. Measure your tires side to side and make sure the distance between frame and tire isthe same on both side or as close as possible/practical. Use the washer spacers to help achive this. That's why thier there. Enough babbling. Hope this helps
Yes the 6-1/4" is the spacing between the mounting points on mine. Is that enough for this to fit? If so I will be ordering one right away! :-)
My hub 700Li hub motor is approx. 5-3/4" to 6" so it should fit nicely. Remember you dealing with people/company in China so translation and time is strained. Be patient.
Thanks! This company you found is a major find! I want to make sure I get the same model you did so it will fit.
In the 800W 10" category on their page, I see 3 different models:
SXLG-08 ("with gear"...wonder if thats the pedaling gear?)
I'm guessing you asked for the 04?
P.S. ...OK final 2 questions before I order. Did you order the disc brake or drum brake?...And, you also mentioned the rim looks very similar to what you had, so it will still look stock. Which picture on their site looks like the rim you got? The SXLG-29 looks the closest to my stock rim.
Thanks again for sharing your great find and for your help.
Drum brakes, and here's some pics of the hub motor.
READ THE SERIAL NUMBER, THAT SHOULD HELP YA. it's; 48V800WSX10015989
OOP! HOW DID THAT GET ON HERE? Yeah that's my license plate.
well with that motor you might need one lol, awesome mods though. it makes me wonder why these battery powered things don't always have LED lights. Price I guess....also i don't think 700li could go much faster than what you've done and be safe.
yes, that's right the frame is very light weight and the fork doesn't have any bearing either. I'd say 30mph is the max anyone should try to go. Still though I havn't had any vibrations, shimmies yet but I do hear and feel the steering column shift when I break hard/fast which is from the front fork shaft having to much play in the column. I'm thinking of welding a set of bearing in there to cure this problem.
what if I just bought the motor and not a new controller or more batteries? I think with the batteries it probably just wont last as long?
With the 800 watt hub motor with the 800 watt controller ( a matched set ) the battery ( 5 months old with 700 miles on it ) lasts 15.2 miles per charge. I have a Garmin 305 bicycle GPS unit mounted to the handlebars. I've ran it this way to test it. Like I said, the way I mod'd my bike I can plug both Batteries in at the same time or just use one or the other. I did this so I can charge one and ruun with the other if I want to.
I just ordered yet another battery from Optimum-China company. It's a 48volt 30 amp nominal witha 50 amp maximum drain output with a nice BMS for $848 total including $150 shipping. this will be going into another scooter prototype but I'm still going to test it in the 700Li. this I'm also going to stuff under the seat.
Nice to be back after a computer meltdown. I just sent Susan an email to buy a motor. Now time for batteries! I'll check into Optimum-China. I've been running my XB-508 with it's 550 watt motor with the 72 volt and shunt mod every day for just over a year now rock solid even on a couple of 105 degree days. It does 26MPH and climbs hills ok but I expect a nice improvement with this motor. I'll let you know how it does at 60 and 72 volts.
I picked up a tip on the XB-600 forum here about tires that have been a great find: "
www.BikeBandit.com has some cheng shins for $14 ea!
Select the 90/90 - 12 option. They are for 12" rims. They replace the "16 x 3.00" tires perfectly. XB-500, 550 and 600 owners who have tried them all swear by them, including myself. They have 2-3 times the tread thickness of stock XB tires (eliminating my flat problems), and the tread extends up the sidewalls which improves the cornering ability and comfort immensely. At 14 bucks each they are a great find and overall ride improvement.
I did just get my 48V @ 30 Amp battery from china. WOW! Got a new full twist throttle also and thus baby wails! Over 30mph on the flats and over 32 miles in distance even going up an altitude of over 700 feet on that same charge. This was definitly worth it's wait in gold to me. I only have to charge once a week.
But the problem was/is is that it didn't fit under the seat because of the BMS but it doesn't cut out like the non Bms battert from x-treme. Or if it does which I plan on ripping apart soon it was faulty. I'll take a pic to show a simple mod with wiring too. This winter will be something differant 'cause I have not figure out a simple way to take battery out for inside charging. I'll think about it.
Dave C.. Stout
You say, "I do hear and feel the steering column shift when I break hard/fast which is from the front fork shaft having to much play in the column." I agree with the diagnosis, but I am VERY surprised if there are NO bearings in the head tube. The XB600 has conventional head tube bearings. It's hard to properly set them up, as they need a ~50mm spanner which, in turn, won't fit behind all the "stuff" around the head tube. I've ended up using a punch, and tapping the lands to tighten the lock nut.
Setting up the head beagrings is an important safety maintenance item. At least in the XB600, the head tube shimmy is really nasty with loose bearings. I'm sure my long legged seating position with the weight very far back over the rear wheel magnifies this.
bike stores have nice tin 12 to 16mm head wrenches that might help.
I'm going to bed!!!!
shots of mod'e battery compartment on the 700XL
48volt 30 amp + 30 mile at 28mph WOW! ( for me)
Thanks soo much for the info RE yksuccess and the hub motor you got from them.
I received mine two days ago and MAN what an improvement! From the time I contacted Sue via E-mail till the time I received it was about 2 weeks and was/is well worth the wait. My XB-700li runs like a champ now.
I'll look into battery upgrades soon after I get this silly grin off my face!! Oh, by the way, they threw in a new throttle along with it at no charge after I told her about the issue you had.
get use to that silly grin 'cause I'm still wearing it to! Isn't it great? And you can ride with confidence too, being sure your motor will make it through the intersection and being able to take command at a four way stop sign instead of waiting until the intersection is empty 'til you creep across it.
Just keep a keen lookout for cops so they won't catch you going over 20mph.
My next modis hoooking a bright dual flashing LED (from ledsupply.com) to a flexible solar panel to the back of the bike for safty. Actually I'm almost done I just have to hook a switch to the circuit. I want to hook a momentary switch under the seat so when seated the circuit is turned 'on'. But so far I mess up the seat lock latch. I wish I had accurate design plans of the scooter itself. I'm a design engineer by trade so I NEED drawings!
I found a neat website that sellss flexible next generation solar panels and the 'raw' materials. I can get you the info if anyone want it. It's exspemsive like everything else.
Im glad someone else is following my advice because it will make you satisfied.
Talk to ya soon and thank for getting back. And don't smile too much you mate might get jealous.
Dave C. Stout
Your absolutely right about the increased confidence now. I'm not constantly looking in the rearview mirror to see what may be about to run my ass over anymore. Now I'm looking only to see if a cop is behind me.
Because of the slow acceleration with the stock motor, I'd always stay as far to the right at any red light/stop sign and wait for traffic to clear. Now I'm up front waiting to take off.
I've already upgraded the headlight, Next, when cash allows I'll be looking into the battery upgrade you did.
Thanks again, I just might chang my monika to SMILINGDAVE:0))
Here are the front Light Mods I did using LED Rebel stars from LedSupply.com Each LED is 540 Lumens bright. KICKASS!!!
The Socket was cut down from the back, the electrical connectors were removed and the LEDs and the lens slipped right in. the hole in the socket is the exact size needed for the assembly. I couldn't believe it! The heatsink has a adhesive backing so the assembly is literally glued on. I've driven at least 200 miles and 2 months with it and it's still there. Of course theres no place for it to go but it's still there.
Here is the Solar Panel and back Flashing Light Assembly. Inside the Light Assembly I gutted it and built a simple Astable Multivibrater circuit. It's basically just two MOSFETs and two resistor/capacitor timing circuit. The Solar panel charges two 3.7volt lithium batteries hooked up in series giving the lights 7.4 volts at 740mA. They are fairly bright. Definitly NOT as bright as the front lights. This is a fun and simple project for anyone who wants to try it. Of course I can provide schematic and suppliers if needed.
heres where I put the Light Switch. I wanted to put a switch under seat so when seated the light is switched on but this was a whole lot easier.
That's it, Happy MODing everyone.
Dave C. Stout
I WANT TO CORRECT MYSELF. I stated above that the 700Li's fork didn't have any bearings, WELL I WAS WRONG ACCORDING TO X-TremeScooters. They do have upper and lower bearings on the steering column.
I'm sorry for miss leading anyone.
Dave C. Stout
The fact that the bike is supposed to have them does not exclude the rare chance someone may have recieved a bike that did not have them in place. Given the various quality control issues many of these bikes from several different manufacturers have exhibited, if a bike is "shaky" while turning, stopping, or just stiff while turning side to side, there is something WAY wrong! Bearings are usually (1/4", 3/32" or some small size)either loose steel balls or held in place with a fancy metal "bearing retainer" equally spaced around the inner shaft and the outer tube. Here are some technical details from the Park Tool site....
Please note, Park Tool is a leading manufacturer of Bicycle repair tools, and as such this info deals specifically with standard bicycle designs. E-bikes may or may not match any of these designs.
Bottom Line: If your e-bike has no bearings in the steering system, something went wrong that needs immediate attention!
I build my own road bicycles too. I have build four altogether. All of them except the first one are Look carbon fiber frames. I press my upper and lower bearings On the fork myself so I know how to "seat" them and adjust them properly. Ya can't over tighten them or you'll actually break the ceramic bearings. (I have ceramic bearings, they are less them half the weight of steel bearings). And you can't have them too loose because you may break them and score the race which means you have to buy another $200 set of bearings.
I also build my own wheels with deep V rims and aerohead rims from austraila, bladed spokes from DT and mulit-colored nipples with American Classic hubs. They are lighter then any rim you can buy.
Im a very avid cyclist putting 8 to 10 thousand miles on a year.
The only problem I might have is finding the right size ( OD and ID ) bearing. I'm sure the space is very tight. I haven't checked it out yet.
Thanks for your help.
Dave C Stout