ERider 8000W scooter - Australia (similar to xm5000li)

Nice bike, but the vid (er, opening aside) reminds me of guys doing 'burnouts' on wet cobblestones to impress. Full Knobbies on pavement, with the front brake on, aren't that hard to spin. How about a vid showing someone taking off on the bike in dry clay?

Ok, that makes sense on the PDT (I was thinking it meant something about Pizza Delivery LOL )

I do not have a heavy throttle ... well, not anymore.

I only have 8 miles (about 13km) to get to work and most of the roads are 30-35 mph limits.

very good

Congratulation,this odometer is very old style,you need to ask Mountain chen to send you a new version digital odometer !

Voltage,trip,SOC ....everything on it !

Aww, you went out tooling around to go and hit that ! : )

Any other issues with the rear wheel nut since you put Locktight on it ?

Congrats Phil! I am also currently approaching that "magic" mark, but my electronic odometer will show a very odd 8958 at that point due to the 1042km on the original mechanical one :-) Maybe three or four more weeks, then my 10 000 goal will have been reached.

I am also very interested in the state of your motor axle nuts. Ever since my replacement motor was put in by the importer I have completely ignored those nuts. The guy who did the technical stuff knew what he was doing, but sadly the original importer went bust and e-sprit was now resurrected by their former tech guy who forgot to put my braking light cable back in after he retrofited a too flimsy C-BMS, and in the process did not even properly tighten the 4 pole screws per pole in my battery. Thanks to my dealer all this could be ironed out before more damage was done, but now this guy is in charge :-(

My bike has simply been plug and ride for ages now.

Good to hear :-) My ride is also giving me the impression this time has come for me also, plug and ride, plug and ride. But it was a long and bumpy road until this comparative tranquility set in...

Oh, and I finally remembered to comment on your always negative Ah count after charging (in case I didn't do that already?): This is due to the slight but still measureable losses during discharging and charging. During charging the losses are slightly higher than during discharge. Coulomb-Efficiency (>99%) -and energy efficiency (92...96%) of LiFePO4 chemistry are responsible for these losses and will generally be turned into heat. The Cycle Analyst faithfully keeps track of these losses and adds them up.

"On another note, I checked my rear tire last night and it is looking a bit worn. If I upload a photo could someone give some advice in whether it needs replacing please. It still has tread but the tread is much deeper on the sides than in the middle. I will measure how many mm tonight. Do you guys understand millimeters (mm)? If not how do you measure tiny amounts in inches?"

If your tire, when looked at in profile, has a flat surface against the road, then it is time to change.
This happens on motorcycles, often touring bikes or "go to work" bikes, where you either load them heavy, and/or do not ride them hard enough to actually wear on the treads on the sides often enough, but just in the middle.
After some time the steering may also feel wobbly, like you are going over an "edge" when leaning into a turn.

If you still have plenty of tread on the middle of the tyre you could also try to lean back and forth when riding sometimes, doing a slow slalom (like 20-30 km/h) (when traffic allows for it of course) - this will "grind" the edge down a bit and make the tyre profile rounder.

/K

On another note, I checked my rear tire last night and it is looking a bit worn. If I upload a photo could someone give some advice in whether it needs replacing please. It still has tread but the tread is much deeper on the sides than in the middle. I will measure how many mm tonight. Do you guys understand millimeters (mm)? If not how do you measure tiny amounts in inches?

In Australia,

to be road worthy, your tires have to have at least 1mm tread depth at the lowest point

a worn tire will wear un-evenly at the end, as there are "wear markers" built into the tire, made of softer rubber which wears away faster than the rest

Matt

Update: 28 March 2013 @ 10,108km

Rode into work this morning as usual and on my usual on-ramp where I have to use 100% throttle, my voltage only sat on 75.2v and no lower!! at exactly 110.5Amps! That's 8309.6 watts! I was very happy. I got into work using only 4.7Ah instead of the normal 5.2Ah to 5.8Ah.

On another note, I checked my rear tire last night and it is looking a bit worn. If I upload a photo could someone give some advice in whether it needs replacing please. It still has tread but the tread is much deeper on the sides than in the middle. I will measure how many mm tonight. Do you guys understand millimeters (mm)? If not how do you measure tiny amounts in inches?

Antiscab mentioned the tread wear indicators...they are all you need to know if the tyre is worn or not. No need to measure. There is usually an indicator in every groove. Just follow a groove around until you get to a little raised bit. If you've worn down to that, replace. Usually, I don't wait quite that long.

Update: 28 March 2013 @ 10,108km

Rode into work this morning as usual and on my usual on-ramp where I have to use 100% throttle, my voltage only sat on 75.2v and no lower!! at exactly 110.5Amps! That's 8309.6 watts! I was very happy. I got into work using only 4.7Ah instead of the normal 5.2Ah to 5.8Ah.

On another note, I checked my rear tire last night and it is looking a bit worn. If I upload a photo could someone give some advice in whether it needs replacing please. It still has tread but the tread is much deeper on the sides than in the middle. I will measure how many mm tonight. Do you guys understand millimeters (mm)? If not how do you measure tiny amounts in inches?

Antiscab mentioned the tread wear indicators...they are all you need to know if the tyre is worn or not. No need to measure. There is usually an indicator in every groove. Just follow a groove around until you get to a little raised bit. If you've worn down to that, replace. Usually, I don't wait quite that long.

Thanks for the Updates

yes, everytime I seem to reply to something it takes almost 8 min to load and then says something was wrong, but it does load the reply . weird

Yes, this forum software is gravely bugged :-(
However, thanks for your update, Phil! In our quarters here in Germany the weather is finally getting warmer now, and my Thunder feels as if newly born! With battery temperatures well over 20°C the acceleration is once again phenomenal!
Your range even in such cold weather does astound me, though. It appears as if the Sevcon was heaps more efficient than my Kelly, and your 50Ah CHL are a completely different beast from my 40Ah GBS, that is for sure!

On a lighter note, I am just recovering from muscle aches from the belly button upwards: last Saturday I took part in a motorcylce safety training with my Thunder! In all I used about 46Ah for getting there, clowning about, riding to lunch and back, clowning some more, and for the ride back home. Distance covered was about 63km. Naturally all this was not possible on a single charge, with only about 30 usuable Ah in the battery before the BMS kicks in... I came 1h early to the meeting point to plug in and replenish my 11km ride to there and heat the battery some more (around 11°C ambient and a constant drizzle...), but by lunch I only had some 3Ah left before the "point of no return" when I would have had to stop "clowning" around and save what was left to ride home. Thankfully my Thunder was also allowed 1.3h quality "lunch time", which brought back some 15Ah. So at the end of about 8h of riding in circles, slaloms, dozens of violent
evasive maneuvers, dozens of full blast emergency braking runs from between 50 and 70km/h to standstill, and hundreds of meters of creeping at the slowest possible speed without using the feet I was far more exhausted than Thunder was :-)
And I must say that despite year-round riding I have a FAR better feel for the bike now and KNOW what to do when - despite the new shocks, perfectly adjusted head bearing, and absolutely awsome tires - the front end starts to bounce and the front wheel locks up during emergency braking: simply release the front brake a little for a split second before reapplying full tension, and all is well, without falling :-)
I now catch myself naturally slowing to sub-walking pace when approaching the end of a line of cars, anticipating the moment when things start to move again, without putting my foot on the ground LOL!

Great update pcarlson! I wonder if Mountain Chen has any new updates on Thunderbolt/Lightning Bolt models to make them more 'consumer' friendly for average Joes like myself without knowledge of or experience working with electrical componentry.

P.S. New to the forums, although I have been a lurker for the longest time. Am a foreigner based here in Beijing with an electric scooter myself, so have an on-the-ground feel for the e-bike industry here in China. One issue with e-bikes/e-scooters here in China is the vast majority populace view them more as fun toys rather than as serious modes of transport and as such, the rate of development of e-bikes/e-scooter has been lacklustre. On the same token, the Chinese government has taken a clear anti-bicycle/anti-scooter/anti-motorcycle/pro-car stance (and understandably so), so it stands to reason that this discourages manufacturers from plunging in serious dosh into R&D compared to guys like Brammo and Zero, who are making genuine leaps and bounds on i) battery capacity ii) packaging and design iii) comfort and usability and iv) quality and workmanship i.e. pretty much all fronts. So it's great to see guys like Mountain Chen attempting to buck this trend to some extent. So I'd like to find out what's new with the 2013 eRider lineup.

I've had this problem 3-4 times, I can actually fix it while riding, just turn the ignition off and back on again.

Does turning it off then on again Always fix it ?

Or is this just a quick fix.

Do you all know what it is that is triggering it?

I think I would be scared Poop-less if it happened to me

Of course that is why i LOVE this site and get to learn so much before I get into it.

Well I am still Jealous.
It will be about $5000 to get the Puma sent to me.
I don't have the $$ so I may not be able to get one till next year .
I was so hoping to get one this year.
better to save and get bigger as I don't have a place to store 2 ;)

Just checked out Vectrix's new website, and they seem to have been able to squeeze in a 5.4kWh (128v, 42Ah) Lithium Iron Phosphate battery into their 'baby' scooter, the VX-2.

That's some serious capacity in a very compact package. CHL/Mountain Chen - anything new from your end? Be good to find out if there are any significant technology upgrades to the scooters and the battery systems.

Just checked out Vectrix's new website, and they seem to have been able to squeeze in a 5.4kWh (128v, 42Ah) Lithium Iron Phosphate battery into their 'baby' scooter, the VX-2.

That's some serious capacity in a very compact package. CHL/Mountain Chen - anything new from your end? Be good to find out if there are any significant technology upgrades to the scooters and the battery systems.

On vectrix.com I could only see those batteries in the VX-1. In the VX-2 there were lead-acid 48V 60Ah, maybe you found it somewhere else?

Some news on my Thunder:
Did a longer run the other day and got quite amazing results from my CA.
Distance: 44.71km
Avg. speed: 57km/h
Used Ah: 22.36
Wh/km: 38.0
This would mean a driving distance of a 100km on a charge with this driving pattern and it was quite normal in my city where the traffic mostly goes around 70-80km/h.