Just bought a new Currie ezip 1000, I’d like to modify it. The gears are packed in grease, a good way to lube the gearbox? I was thinking of using a gear oil bath, and am wondering if the input-output shaft seals could handle that without leaking. Has anyone had one of these apart and know if there are two lips on the contact surfaces, or if the seals are any common size? And I heard that the throttle controller has a speed limiter, does anyone know if that is changeable on the stock unit. If not, could you recommend one? Also, I’d like to go 48 volts, 4-18 ah batts. I’m willing to risk it with this setup. A quick search got me the Interstate DCM0018 deep cell, anyone using these or have better options in that size? Appreciate any help. TJ
I think that if you change the voltage to 48V from 36V you would need to make some changes in order to prevent the motor from burning out prematurely and frying the electrical system. A short list would include new batteries, controller, throttle, battery charger and fuse and ignition switch.
It may be easier (and much less costly) to add an another 12V battery with a separate switch that can be activated like a Turbo Boost, increasing voltage for 30 second hill climbs, like the boost switch on the old E-Max and other scooters. You will have to check the controller to see if it can handle the surge. I think there is a thread in the Forum about adding an extra battery and how it is wired in the E-Max section.
The gear box is packed in lithium grease to lubricate the gears in rough conditions- the lighter the lubricant, the less impact it can absorb, so it probably would work well to stay with the grease, even if you were to replace the drive gear. If you do replace the gear for one with fewer teeth, it will mean a higher top end (more speed)at the effect of low end speed (less power). I do not know the particular about the seals; however, they are not designed for gear oil without modification.
The throttle is 36V with 5 pins and I do not think it has a limiter. Check for information in the Forum about controller modifications- there is a thread from Bradster (2008) about modifications to the speed controller on an A-Moto that may be useful.
Hi Chris, Thanks for all the information. I'll definately keep an eye on motor temps, and not mess with the gearbox. Right now I'm getting 6 miles (50% battery discharge) at 13-15 mph on 3-10 ah. bats. The motor is running very cool. I'm 175 lbs. Think I'll try 4-18ah deepcell bats (100% discharge), and a 24-48 volt controller. With careful use of throttle the speed and distance should be good.
I'll set up a parallel charge and series run circuit to connect the batteries. That will let me use my 12 volt automotive deepcell charger. I have to build a wiring harness anyway.
What I'm concerned about is the weight distribution. I"m putting 2 bats in the stock location, then one under the rear fender and one above in a black ABS pistol case, should be interesting. Just wanted to run all this stuff by you guys, before I start the mail orders. Apprciate any ideas. TJ
Can't you mount one battery in the front, at the base of the 'up tube' or close to it? That would greatly improve weight distribution.
Hi Leftie, Yes, thats a good idea. The thing is I'm really liking stand up riding it's probably all I will do on it. I don't mind cutting down an up tube to mount to but the 3 inch thick battery would limit my feet space. With the wheelbase length (long) 44 inches axle to axle and shocks front and rear, this scoot is a trip to maneuver, very controllable so far. Also I'm liking the clean lines of bats out of the way. But yeah, if it starts swapping ends or fishtailing will definitely take your advice. Did not think of that. Thanks, TJ
Thought I would submit a progress report. I am riding the new setup. I ended up going with 4 Angstrom deep cell batteries @ 22 ah. for 48 volts. Also a 24-60V 700-1000W Electric Scooter/Bicycle Speed Controller. The batteries are stacked in the stock location for testing, so I have to ride seated for now. Will be mounting 2 bats under and over the rear fender, but until I weld up some battery mounts, my rear is hurtin.
I like the power and distance increase. I am now 20 mph. and 20 miles distance per charge, according to my GPS with 60 miles total on this setup. I do have to be careful with acceleration as the front end wants to lift at the start up; I think stand up riding will calm it down some. The motor does get warm on steep hills, but not too hot to touch. Like I said, the power does come on quick so my concern at this point is the transmission. Am dialing on throttle sensibly (being seated) and am looking forward to wheel stands and power slides, so nice with the electric motor linear power curve. I’m putting off pics until I have something to really show.
I think a hairdryer is all you need to lube the gears. I've seen pics of the gearcase opened up. The gear oil is just stuck to the sides of the gearcase away from the gears. Since grease has such a low melting point and the gearcase is metal, it should be easy to heat it up enough with a hair dryer to melt the grease. Just doing one side at a time is probably enough. This is by far the easiest way I think since it doesn't necessitate taking anything apart.
I've seen pictures of the gearcase opened up. The grease gets packed onto the sides away from the gears. Just heating up one side of the gearcase with a hairdryer should be enough to melt the grease and lube things up again. Grease has a low melting point.