MB-1-E Part Eleven: More Wiring

MB-1-E's picture

Hey All,

I finally got my batteries all wired with the DPDT switch so I can charge at 12V and run at 24V (both nominal voltages, as we all know AGM SLA's are a bit higher than that at full charge).

So I now have two battery banks, each has 4 - 9Ah 12V batteries. Each bank is in parallel and the two banks are wired in series through the DPDT switch.
Thanks to a few electrical wizards here I was able to get this right and it works like a charm.

I'm charging the full set right now using my Iota DLS-15 charger with QD4 three stage charge controller.

I haven't wired up the motor controller yet, but that should be fairly simple. I'll be running 6Ga welding cable from the batteries to the controller and from the controller to the motor.

Still have the throttle to install, not sure which leads are which on it. I assume black is negative on the controller and there is also a brown and a blue wire. I wonder which one is the POT.

I think I have everything else I need for the project now, just need to get some more heatshrink and figure a good way to insure that the leads on the DPDT switch cannot move when traversing rough terrain.
I was thinking of using something like silicone caulking to totally isolate the wires and connectors at the back of the switch. Anyone ever try this?

Got some mechanical things to wrap up too, but today was all wiring and getting the charger connected.
I tested the motor on 26+ volts and it really sounded good. I left it running for a couple of minutes and it kept speeding up slightly. Must be the brushes getting seated and the bearings loosening up a little.

More soon.
Stay Tuned.

Dave

Comments

echuckj5's picture

Dave,
I have the magura twist grip throttle and an alltrax controller purchased from kta services. The wiring diagram kta sent me was very simple. Twist the brown and blue wire together and they go to the lead on the controller labeled #2. The black wire goes to lead #3. My controller needs to be powered via a "keyswitch". Lead #1 is the controller on off. I did'nt use a switch for this, just powered #1 off of battery + main lug on the controller.

Did you find #35 chain? That size chain is so common. Any bearing supplier, or Grainger, McMaster, Northern Tools should have it. Chain is a very complex topic. Cheap chain is Cheap. All around good qaulity chain is made by Diamond. This is made for industrial drives. Racing chain is sold by Rieken's Racing, www.out2win.com. Located in Iowa, where I am from. Probably, from my little experience, friends of mine race go karts, The chain from Rieken's will be a very high qaulity chain. The chain from Rieken's just looks better than standard chain. Old friend of mine down here in Dallas races karts and this is the only chain he will use. On bicycle chain, to remove a link, you simply push the pin out far enough to seperate the links, don't remove the pin from the opposite side. On the #35 chain, the pins are swaged on the ends, this swage has to be ground off before you push the pin out. Throw the pin away and use a master link. Chain breakers are powerful enough to push the pin out even if you don't grind the pin, but, the flair will damage the roller as it slides through it.

chuck

[b]AGM BATTERIES[/b]

MB-1-E's picture

Very useful information right about now Chuck!
I have a small #35 chain breaker but will be sure to grind the pin so I don't mar the inside of the roller.

My controller has a key hook-up also, I'll just use a switch between the key lead and battery for now, until I get a key.
The Navitas Controller has three leads for the throttle (pos, neg, pot).

I got some #35 chain, I'll look for the Rieken's if it gives me any problems.

Working with these batteries is a little spooky, I'm glad to get a good part of that done.

Thanks for the tips Chuck, they're appreciated as usual!

Dave

Dave

MB-1-E
Electric - Bridgestone MB-1 Mountain Bike
Icon Photo of lighning striking Eiffel Tower Jun 3, 1902, taken by MG Loppe'

Dave B

MB-1-E
<a href="http://visforvoltage.org/book-page/996-mountain-bike-conversion-24v-3-4h... - Bridgestone MB-1 Mountain Bike</a>

Hi Dave. Where I work we made a thrust reverser switching assembly that goes in the wing next to the engine on a 757. After it was all wired and before putting the cover on the box the spec called for insulating with a silicone caulking type compound. We basically just squirted a big blob on and manipulated it with the wooden end of an industrial Qtip to work out any bubbles. If it's good enough for a Boeing airplane it should work on your bike

Just look at the data sheet and make sure whatever you use is not corrosive and has good electrical insulation qualities. I'll check and see what the GE part number we use for this type application is. I think it is GE 501 RTV.

Will post for sure Tuesday evening.

MB-1-E's picture

I would have to say that is a darn good confirmation that I wasn't too far off base.
I'll check the properties of anything I use and will also be using some heatshrink on the individual connections.

Of course, the heatshrink means that I need to dis-assemble and re-assemble the connections, but better safe than to let all the blue smoke out of the batteries.

Thanks for the confirmation, that helps a lot!

I'm gettin' close to getting this to the stage where it will be ready to try out very soon.
I'm headed over to Zig Zag tomorrow and my brother Robert and I will be wrapping things up. Should be able to test it out tomorrow.

I'll still be in a bit of proto-type mode and I may need to tweak a few things after this. It's really hard to know if everything will work as planned (does it ever), I'll keep you posted on the results of tomorrow's testing.

Why do I all of a sudden feel like a test pilot/ guinie pig/ lab rat ... ???

Dave

MB-1-E
Electric - Bridgestone MB-1 Mountain Bike
Icon Photo of lighning striking Eiffel Tower Jun 3, 1902, taken by MG Loppe'

Dave B

MB-1-E
<a href="http://visforvoltage.org/book-page/996-mountain-bike-conversion-24v-3-4h... - Bridgestone MB-1 Mountain Bike</a>

Why not just cut the shrink tube and slide it on the wires before attachment?

If you have it right slide them back down the wires and heat until done, if not make your changes then heat until done.

MB-1-E's picture

The wires are already attached (both ends), but the battery end is definately easier to disconnect, you're right, sliding the HS from that end would help, good plan. Of course, the only place within 20 miles that sells heatshrink was closed today due to the holiday weekend. I've got some ideas to keep it safe in the mean time though.
Hopefully, my next post will be about a functional ebike. Catch ya then.

Dave

MB-1-E
Electric - Bridgestone MB-1 Mountain Bike
Icon Photo of lighning striking Eiffel Tower Jun 3, 1902, taken by MG Loppe'

Dave B

MB-1-E
<a href="http://visforvoltage.org/book-page/996-mountain-bike-conversion-24v-3-4h... - Bridgestone MB-1 Mountain Bike</a>


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