I was pretty inactive at visforvoltage.org for the last few weeks.
Now I do have some more time and want to present you my Feigao Power Analyzer
and the modification work I did to improve the handling on EVs.
I bought it some months ago at unitedhobbies.com for about 36USD.
Initially I wanted to buy a Watt's Up but afterwards came up with the Powe Analyzer for reasons like it's affordability and the data logging feature.
So here is some Basic information about it:
I expect most of you know some similar measuring tools e.g. DrainBrain or Watt's Up.
The Feigao Power Analyzer does pretty the same but additionally has a serial interface to log all the measured data with your PC and illustrate it in graphs etc...
Basic characteristics as given in the user manual:
Voltage measuring 0-100Volts
Power measuring 0-10000Watts
Volts: The displayed voltage is the voltage at the POWER SOURCE side of the
Current: The Power Analyzer has two ranges for current, that is, 0-19Amps and
20-100Amps. It automatically switches between high and low range. Low current
range has a resolution of 0.05A. High current range has a resolution of 0.1A.
Watts: The amount of power flowing from the POWE SOURCE to the LOAD,
Amp-hours: The displayed amp-hours indicates how much current has flowed
from the POWER SOURCE to the LOAD. Measurement refers to the definition
Watt-hours: The displayed watt-hours indicate how much power has flowed from
the POWER SOURCE to the LOAD. Measurement refers to the definition
So this is what the Feigao Power Analyzer is about, but for EVs I wasn't pleased with the
combined shunt/display device. It's always good to keep your wires short and using such a device would initially force you to wire your power cables in front of you (e.g. handlebar mounting).
To avoid this I separated the display unit of the Analyzer and it worked pretty well :-)
After removing the housing of the Power Analyzer you can see the following:
The upper board (display unit) is just pinned onto the lower part (shunt unit).
So separating wasn't a problem at all. Afterwards I simply soldered single cables (14 strands) at the pins and connected the other side to the soldering points at the display unit.
To cover the units I used shrink tubes which I usually use for my batteries.
That's how it looks now ;-)in some way it reminds me of some kind of RC model controller with display unit :D
A gallery with some more pictures in greater resolution can be found here: