Well I just had a new retension bar made to replace the mild steel retension bar that came with the bike. It was the 2nd retension bar I went through. The motor kept overcoming the two nut retainers and drilled out the retension bars. When I took the retension bar to the metal shop they actually laughed at it. The were laughing at the quality of the metal for the job it was to perform. Very bad design they said. The new retension bar is about three times as heavy and fits the axel to a tighter tolerance and is thicker.
Now the question is what will far apart next. Smile
A walkaround of a Motorino Xpe from E-ride.ca
A drive on an Xpe showing speeds on flat and climbing hills. 2 parts Spedometer is a cheap add on and may not be 100% accurate bike claims 32 KM/H max
A drive on an Xpe showing speeds on flat and climbing hills. 2 parts Spedometer is a cheap add on and may not be 100% accurate bike claims 32 KM/H ma
Here is a pic of the 2nd battery pack. When I bought the bike I ordered the 2nd battery pack to extend range and reduce power drops climbing hills. When the bike was delivered there was no 2nd battery pack. After contacting eride they said they were sending it seperately. 2 Months later I had to contact the credit card company to threaten to reverse the order, then they sent the batteries. They sent them by bus. They arrived wothout a pack just batteries wired together to a plug. I called e-ride and they said there was no pack for that model bike but their website today still shows a 2nd pack available for an Xpe. When I hooked the battery pack the connector melted and blew because the bike's(not the battery's) 2nd battery cable was reverse polarized. I had to make a new connector from 2 fuses and switches.
Here is a pic of the dc converter. A light fell out of it's socket and blew the converter. Replaced under warranty. The replacement has a fuse on it. The original converter didn't have a fuse.
Here is a pic under the hood. I moved the electronics here instead of being under the seat where they were HARD to get at. This pic doesn't show it but I later added a car blower fan sitting under the controller to keep it cool. The first controller blew a capacitor. When I opened the case there was a pool of solder in the corner which had melted off of the buzz bar. Replaced under warranty.
Here is a pic of the bike the day I got it.
Here is an idea I thought of to make use of the empty mirror sockets. Whent he second set of batteries arrived a generic set of mirrors came with it but no sockets for the holes to mount the mirrors. I attached the mirrors to the break levers.
The 2nd battery pack was too much weight for the seat case. I reinforced it with some duct tape and sheet metal.
Here is a small pic of the kick stand that rusted off in the 1st four months I had the bike. Proof in my opinion that e-ride sold me a demo unit or 2nd hand bike at full price without labelling the sale as a 2nd hand bike.
Here is a pic of the 2nd battery compartment. If you have an Xpe let me know if your compartment is larger, i.e. if the lock mechanism is farther back instead of in the middle.
I bought an XPE from E-ride.ca and it's been a nightmare.
Bike arrived with a silver dollar sized chip in the shell near the bottom by the battery ( hard to see) they said sorry cosmetic shipping problem not covered. When I asked about getting a replacment shell segment they were like huh? A replacement what?
The bike didn't come with the alarm I ordered. They sent an alarm that won't work when the bike is turned off, they took 3 months to send one that will. It arrived with no direction or instructions or labels. I asked is it a12V or 48 volt, after 3 emails they kept saying it was 12V, when it is actually 48V. It does work.
The back bubble trunk wouldn't latch, - The latch was mounted improperly. Fixed and working.
They didn't send the 2nd battery pack, eventually they did but it wasn't a pack but seperate 12V batteries. They said that model doesn't have a 2nd battery pack, yet they advertize it does.
The ignition is wired so both 48V battery packs are used in parallel not seperately. ( It does eliminate deep draws off the battery climbing hills though.) No mention of this on their site though. Site implies you use one then switch to the second.
The cable for the 2nd battery pack was reverse polorized and melted upon hookup, I rebuilt a safer connector myself with a fuse on each line with it's own switch. There was no fuse on that circuit.
The DC converter had to be replaced(under warranty) when a light bulb fell out and the connector struck the bike frame( DC controller had no fuse - replacement does).
The center kickstand foot pull fell off due to rust(I store it in a dry shed off the ground). They sent a replacement stand with the alarm.
The bike didn't have mirrors, the sent some later but not the proper connector like in the pics. I have them attached via the break levers( actually a better position to see behind you instead of seeing you) but still annoying.
The bike got a flat within the week, I changed the tire mounted everything drove to work and the bike died. The cables going into the wheel were frayed and arc'd ( The wire coil protector upon inspection was RUSTED and the coil not tighly wound providing no protection. This killed the hall effect sensors. They claimed I didn't attach the retension clip the wheel spun in the mount and cut the wires,so it voided the warranty. I DID attach the retension clip the wires were frayed when I got the bike. They did send replacement sensors and I rebuilt the motor myself.
Now I'm getting periodic failures of the regenerative breaking. The front break won't initiate regen breaking but will continue it. Very rarely breaking once initiated will kick out and I'm left with regular pull breaks. This has been reduced but not eliminated after I moved the location of the electronics to under the hood.
Additionally I'm getting power outages where the bike initiates breaks on it's own. The Amp needle will drop radically from 15 amp to 10 on occasion and the bike gets a small kick. Climbing hills is not as strong as before. A hill I could take at 25 of 32 KM/Hr when new I now slow to 10 of 32Km/Hr and need to peddle to crest the hill. They said I had some loose wires. I made sure all the connectors were dry and put elastics on them to make sure they were firmly connected. I think the controller is dying and they are ignoring my emails now. This problem later went away when the controller was replaced under waranty when the controllers main capacitor blew.
When I opened the case of the dead controller I found that solder had melted off the buzz bar and pooled in the corner of the controller.
Oh and the 2nd battery pack was too much weight for the underseat carrying spot, it started to crack. I reinforced it with some aluminium sheeting to carry the weight of the entire seat-battery.
The motor. I sent the serial number of the motor to the manufacturer saying I bought it second hand and needed details so I could get a proper controller. Thay said it's a 350W motor. This was a surprise since e-ride site says it's a 500W motor. They use an over amp'd controller and a 350W motor to generate 500W output 48V*17Amp =816 MAX figure 62% continuous is 500W. This was really annoying because the XPe page was different from the XP page in that it said 500W controller and 500W motor, while the other pages just said 500W motor. E-ride's response was sorry we inadvertantly put the max details of one up and the other had the continuous details. Essentially "too damn bad". In response for my asking for a 500 W motor they said the 500W motors were slower.
You'll notice I cut out the back end of the seat. I put in a mesh basket for more storage.