This is an attempt to put together a list of all the known problems of the e-max scooter. Ideally, it should be a reference for owners.
1. Controller. Large capacitors rattle loose -> short circuit.
Description: The large capacitors are mounted perpendicular to the board, and are prone to rattle loose after a few thousand km of use.
Solution: open controller and secure with silicon or epoxy.
2. Low max speed.
Description: Scooter not capable of reaching more than around 43 km/h (48 km/h displayed) at best, even at full charge. Acceleration is poor. 100% throttle position is close to mechanical stop.
Solution: open controller and remove jumper S2 (or S1, whichever is present).
3. Controller not well secured to scooter.
Description: on some scooters, the plate with the controller was not correctly secured to the scooter. Rivets had been used, which in general were broken already at delivery.
Solution: replace rivets with M5 or M6 inox bolts. Some drilling needed.
4. Wheels out of round.
Description. Owners have reported rear and/or front wheels being out of round.
Solution. The wheel has to be replaced.
5. Tires out of round.
Description: when spinning the wheel, observe the rim and perimeter of tire. In my case, the rim was stable, but the (OEM) tire was clearly out of round. (I suspect that the tires get their permanent, not-round shape when the scooter sits strapped down in the transport cradle, for months.)
Solution. Replace tires, both front and rear. This is the number one upgrade to do anyways, don't wait for the tires to get broken in or improve by time - they won't. Good tires are soo much better than the OEM (Cheng) in terms of grip and stability.
6. Clicking noise from rear wheel.
Description: one or several bolts, securing the rim to the motor, getting loose.
Solution: Tighten rim-motor bolts. Ideally, the nuts should be replaced, since they are one-time use only.
7. Rear fender knocking against battery box.
Description: in pot holes or bumps, there may be a noise from the rear. It's the fender hitting the battery box.
Solution: it's not possible to prevent this problem completely. Drive slower, and adjust ride height to at least position 3 of 4. (At delivery, the shock absorbers are adjusted to level 1 of 4.) Occasionally, when hitting larger bumps at high speeds, the fender might still hit the battery box.
8. Rear view mirrors loose.
Description: rear view mirrors are not secured and can be rotated by hand.
Solution: Tighten securing nut.
9. Weak rear brake.
Description: weak function of rear brake.
Solution: Adjust wire at rear wheel. There will always be best stopping power at front brake, though, since the rear brake is drum type and wire activated.
10. Turn indicator switch.
Description: After a while, the switch won't stay in "turn" position, but returns to off position immediately.
Solution: no ideal solution yet. I have replaced the complete switch assembly, and it's better but not perfect. Also tried an advice to open the switch and stretch the two, tiny springs in there. Lasted two weeks.
11. Speedometer: no reading and odometer stopped.
Description: after a while, the cable detaches from speedometer, it seems the securing nuts were badly tightened at assembly.
Solution: remove the front panel and insert cable. Tighten nut firmly by hand.
12. Charge indicator looses damper function.
Description: at delivery, the charge indicator needle moves slowly and elegantly across the dashboard, but after a few thousand km indication becomes instant.
Solution: none known.
13. Problems with chargers.
Described in separate posts in forum.
14. Problems with main relays, aka magic box.
15. Battery problems.
16. Switch detecting if side support is up.
17. Seat not comfortable.
18. Vibrations and orrr sound at slow speeds.
(Sorry, I ran out of steam around item 13.)
Please, comment and add items I have forgot.
Best regards,
Rolf
Thank you!
19. Engine dies after having stopped at red light, or anywhere else.
Solution: fiddle with the left hand brake handle and release the screw a bit as it's glitching and makes the handle remain stuck a bit back even after you release it. Temporary solution is pushing the break handle forward everytime the engine refuse to start.
This brake switch problem should be easy to fix once you spray a little 10W40 into the brake line (only works with the left one of course, the right one is a closed system - cylinder and all)
I did that right when I got the machine, never has gotten stuck since.
20.)
Motor axle is not secured against rotating and ripping off main motor cable. This will also making changing the rear tire impossible.
Do you know how to fix or where I can get a replacement turn signal switch for the Emax sport?
If the problem is that the switch won't stay on in one or both directions, it can be fixed by removing the switch/assembly from the handlebar, and removing the two small screws that small steel cover on the back side of the switch. Carefully remove the cover and behind it you will find a small spring - be careful the spring doesn't fly away. Stretch a few of the coils this spring out to obtain a longer spring length and reinstall.
Alternatively a good hardware store might have a replacement spring that will work - since the problem is that the stock spring is too weak, the replacement should be a bit stiffer than the original one.
The screw holes often strip upon retightening. If this happens, put a drop of super glue in the hole and quickly reinstall the screw.
If you end up needing a new switch assembly try the calling or e-mailing the various Chinese scooter/part dealers found on the web - you need to send a picture - or another switch style might work.
Hope this helps.