Rear Puncture

I'm using michelin. It performs superb.
You can find find a picture of my new front/rear michelin tyre in the middle of this post about my vectrix:

http://www.voltforum.cat/voltforum/YaBB.pl?num=1219356394/all

eh. up buzby nice n easy.. man .
if you got plenty of thread left seems silly to wast one perfactelly good tyre. apart from the .
small hole . all ya need is green slime . will sort that prob in a jiffy.
and no air leakage . i know what you thinking his on commission.
well no . it just WORKS !!!!! give it a go . kev

eh. up buzby nice n easy.. man .
if you got plenty of thread left seems silly to wast one perfactelly good tyre. apart from the .
small hole . all ya need is green slime . will sort that prob in a jiffy.
and no air leakage . i know what you thinking his on commission.
well no . it just WORKS !!!!! give it a go . kev

I was wondering what took you so long!! ;-)

I just phoned up the local bike shop and asked them to order in me a new tyre

A few days later took the wheel in and they swapped it over while I waited

Replaced the rear with the same Pirelli

nise.one but don't forget the green slime . ;>)
kev

I use a product that I purchased at ride-on.com. It's a tire protectant that you put in the tire before any problems. If you get a punture, it seals it before you lose all the air. It also helps to balance the tire.
Safe Scooting,
Bickyd

Michelin Gold Standard, front and rear. It's a much better bike to ride now. Get rid of the Pirellis - you'll never regret it!

The same like me: M Gold standard. The bike now is a blast to ride, In twisted roads the michelin tyres perform much better than those pirellis.
Snail, would you mind checking the date of production of your bike? It will be really useful for me to build up the Vectrix's production chronology. Thanks!

hi whats' the prices for these tyres and what
type of tread is it are they low resistance?? .and silly question but are you going to take pictures of them.
have you noticed any more range ? or much of a much'ness.
thanks kev

ps . did you get both fitted your self?
or did you have to take both wheels off yourself?? kev

I had new rear tyre last week. I've done 6,300 miles (10,138km) but didn't realise bike tyres wear down so quickly! I will be replacing mine next time at a maximum of 5000 mile intervals.

The original Pirelli GT-S24 140/60-13 was not available at my local tyre shop for 2 weeks. Having no choice, I went for the slightly more expensive Michelin Pilot Sport SC 57P TL which arrived next day. Cost was £53.00 fitted (£37.52 + VAT for the actual tyre). After reading the instructions I printed from the user manual, they didn't seem to have any trouble with the Vectrix.

Hi Raymond, just changed my back tyre ay 3600 miles. Same make pirelli. £37.00 onthe internet. None of the local garages would take it off. You need a 27mm socket for the centre nut and 13mm for the rest. You also need a torque wrench. The allan screw which retains the plastin cover is , despite being stainless steel is usually frozen stiff due to ally oxide. The cover will come out with care without damage. having a centre stand really helped. Big tip...loosen the wheel nuts before lifting the back end. I have copy of the official instructions with torque settings if some one can tell me how to post it. I'll try and paste it in here:--
Rear Wheel Replacement
S-EX-S00013
Removal Procedure
1. Raise and support the scooter.
2. Using an Allen wrench (1) loosen the set screw and remove the axle nut cover (2).

Click here for full-size
3. Remove the lower right rear shock bolt (2).
4. Remove the rear brake caliper bolts (1) and the brake hose bracket screw (3).
Caution: Do not depress the brake lever with the brake caliper removed from the brake rotor. Damage to the brake system may result. If brake system damage occurs and is not repaired, scooter damage and/or personal injury or death may result.
Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanics wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.
5. Remove the brake caliper for the right side swingarm.
6. Remove the axle nut, lock washer and flat washer (5) from the axle shaft.
7. Remove the front swingarm nuts (4).

Click here for full-size
8. Pivot the rear shock forward and remove the swingarm (1).

Click here for full-size
9. Remove the wheel nuts (1) from the hub.
10. Remove the wheel from the hub.

Click here for full-size
Installation Procedure
Important: Whenever the wheel has been separated from the hub flange, any rust or contaminants must be cleaned from the hub flange and the wheel mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled lateral runout (LRO) of the wheel, which could lead to a shimmy or vibration.
1. Inspect the wheel and hub flange surface (1) for rust or contamination.

Click here for full-size
Caution: The rear wheel nuts have a tapered edge (1) and must be installed toward the wheel assembly. These tapered edge nuts must not be replaced with a non-tapered nut. If non-tapered nuts are used, it could cause the wheel to come off when the scooter is moving. This could cause loss of control and possibly personal injury.

Click here for full-size
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in General Information.
2. Install the wheel nuts (1) onto the flange tabs.
Tighten
Wheel nuts to 23 N•m (17 lb ft)

Click here for full-size
3. Pivot the rear shock forward and install the swingarm (1).

Click here for full-size
4. Install the front swingarm nuts (4).
Tighten
Swingarm nuts to 23 N•m (17 lb ft)
5. Apply Castrol Optimal Paste on the threads of the axle nut.
6. Install the flat washer, lock washer and axle nut (5) onto the axle shaft.
Tighten
Axle nut to 145 N•m (107 lb ft)
7. Install the brake caliper onto the right side swingarm.
8. Install the rear brake caliper bolts (1) and the brake hose bracket screw (3).
Tighten
Caliper bolts to 25 N•m (18 lb ft)
9. Install the lower right rear shock bolt (2).
Tighten
Shock bolt to 57 N•m (42 lb ft)

Click here for full-size
10. Install the axle nut cover (2) and using an Allen wrench (1) tighten the set screw.

Click here for full-size

Well it put the text in but not the pics.
Hope this helps.
BTW The engineer reckons about 4000 miles for the back and usually double that for the front......they are all nervously waiting for 27th October!!

Regards
Ray

Ray,

Is it possible for you to email this document to me. If so, let me know and I'll send you my email. Thanks.

Adam

Hi Adam, yes, it came to me as an attachment so if you want to e-mail me direct...."raytheham [at] googlemail.com" will find me and I'll attach it to the reply. I can't believe the differnce it has made to the comfort of the ride. Mind you the roads around here are decidely ropey! That's Oxfordshire county council for you, waste money on a new pedestrian precinct which nobody wanted rather than on the roads!
Regards
Ray

Tks everyone....

As I've plenty tread - I'm just going to Slime it (with the plug in place to make the seal), and if I get another year out of it, I'll be happy to replace it with a new tyre/tire next autumn!

That is what I did. I first plugged it myself...leaked a bit. Took it to a shop and got a mushroom plug put in...still leaked a bit. Slimed it a couple of days ago...no leak what so ever! I highly recommend it.

Adam

yeyeh prase the lord....... kev

Snail, would you mind checking the date of production of your bike? It will be really useful for me to build up the Vectrix's production chronology. Thanks!

Hi R, It's Chassis 00361, produced sometime between May and June 07.

Cheers,

Brian

Hi Brian, thanks. If you don't have front white label behind the fork (where usually tells the date), please have a look at the bar code next to the VIN:

In this case, 2007-05-15
thanks!

Hi Roger,

2007-05-24. Interestingly, my white label is at the rear of the chassis, in the rear wheelarch! Naturally, it's very grubby now...

Brian

Thanks! in 9 days they produced at least 112 bikes... white label means the same frontal label from newer units, or the bar code label? and rear wheelarch... I don't get this.. sorry...

"The allan screw which retains the plastic cover is , despite being stainless steel is usually frozen stiff due to ally oxide."

the ally oxide is because the screw is stainless, google galvanic corrosion.

This thread has been added to the Vectrix Collaborative Handbook, please stay on topic!

To add to raytheham's comments above:

You'll need a 3mm hex key to remove the tiny set screw that holds the shiny plastic bolt cover on the right (brake) side axle swing arm. It then pops off easily with a screwdriver.

The axle nut is 27mm. (must have socket as nut is recessed in the swing arm)

The shock absorber bolt is 19mm.

The (6) wheel bolts, (2) brake bolts, and (4) swing arm nuts are all 13mm.

And as he said - don't forget the phillips screw holding the brake line.

I found the brembo brake assembly easy to move over the tire and out of the way AFTER the shock absorber was loose. Don't forget this on re-assembly.

dvdaudio - Arizona USA

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However, since I will not be able to refit the hub protective cap by using the allen scew, I'm wondering what others have done to ensure the cap stays in place.... mastic?

Clearly, I doubt many will (after 2 years) find this grub screw fixing viable.

What have others done?

I lost the cap altogether. It fell off because it cannot be tightened very well. Either the allen screw is loose, or it damages the cap.

I hot-melt-glued a piece of clear plastic over the hole, it has lasted several thousand km so far!

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I still fin it incredfible that when designing the Vectrix, the (well known) problem of alloy siezure was ignored for ease of assembly, without a care for users down the line who'll have the task of removing the relevant parts. I've now used copper-slip on the bits I know I'll probably need access to in the future, but for those who have yet to do anything mindane as changing a wheel (hardly an unexpected occurrence!) hopefully they'll rethink this when production recommences, as even kow the machine remains innovative.....

I applied Ballistol oil to many parts of the Vectux early on. but I don't know if it prevents this sort of "alloy seizure", because the Vectux never managed to stay in one piece for long enough for this to occur!

Ballistol certainly prevents many other types of corrosion.

I would have got 12000 klms from my rear tyre but got a puncture three days before I was due to change it I have been running around with two other punctures which I had plugged using the plugs that you get when you buy a bmw bike (sold by rema tip top)