Electric vehicle controllers and control systems

I took the Lectra out for a long spin this evening - to Palo Alto and back, I believe that's 10 miles. FWIW at the end of the ride the bike became very sluggish and the 12v system (lights) cut out a couple times. The pack measured 59 volts by the time it got into the garage, meaning it dipped below 12v per battery.

Anyway, what I'm curious for advice about is proper controller behavior during a near-emergency-stop.

One of the fellows in the Xebra_EV group on Yahoo!Groups modified his PakTrakr a bit...

http://tinyurl.com/yokrys

http://tinyurl.com/2e4ya6

http://tinyurl.com/2dxznd

You'll need to be a Yahoo Groups member to access the pictures.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Xebra_EV/message/12847

Greetings,

I am looking for a suitable controller to work with a Briggs & Stratton Etek motor. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Regards, Lindsay

Hi,

Does anyone have any experience with Kelly Controllers?

They do an 84V / 400A series motor controller for $389 which is a bargain (if in fact the controller is any good!) This is what I'm thinking of using for my CB-84V (was a CB-72V, then a CB-96V and now looking like a CB-84V :-))

They also have a brushless controller coming soon (which they say is 3 phase and 6 phase compatible) - they offer a 48V and a 72V model. Combining the 72V model with LiFe batteries on an XM2000 would be interesting...

just saw a an interview with a sales guy on youtube about the vectrix.

Apparently in order to regenerate while slowing down using the vectrix you just put the bike into reverse and it slows down while pushing some of that energy back into the batteries..

My question is.. is it really that simple ?

if you placed a switch on your ebike to put the motor into reverse polarity while going down a hill.. would the energy be fed back into the batteries or would the controller stop it ?

I'm not a tinkerer, but I am faced with becoming one due to the apparent demise of the controller on my EV Global 36V E-Bike (SX). I can't find a replacement (OEM-style) anywhere. Were I to want to try to put in a "3rd-party" controller, what would a good replacement be (and how could I figure out what a good replacement would be?).

I got my hands on an old Kango 1.2 electric go-kart, and I am trying not to spend too much money in the process of testing it. So, I have one 12v deep cycle battery set to test the systems, but I see that it doesn't do anything. Now for the "dumb" question: The Kango has a golf-cart type speed controller and the whole thing is rated for 36 volts; Would it run at all on 12 volts, or must I put 36 volts to it? The motor is a Leeson PM 36 volt DC motor, 1.5 hp @ 28 amps.

I bought a New Hope kit on ebay that suffers from a poorly designed controller.Seller is no help,I've bought 2 controllers so far the mosfets short out and destroy the lo v ic's. The motor was advertised as 500 watts the v is 48 no specs are available on the controller. I'm thinking a crystalyte 48v 20 amp might be a good choice. Motor wiring is 3 power leads, 3 sensor leads, 5v hot and ground. The throttle is wired 5v hot, ground and .5 to 4.5v 0n the sensor wire closed to wide open. Any thoughts out there? Thanks in advance.

Here is a nice WattMeter Demo & Simulator - The first online!

Here is the link to Racing Controller Designs