Electric vehicle controllers and control systems

Would a 1fared cap between the motor and controller (etek and AXE) help or hurt the performance?

I have a E-trike(dual front wheels) with a foot brake that cuts off the motor when the brake is applied. My problem is, I stop going up a hill, when I start again, I let off the brake, the trike starts to roll backwards, I twist the throttle and the trike jumps. I am afraid it may cause me to tip over. I have seen this feature on other controllers, does anyone know why this feature exists? Is there any reason why I shouldn't bypass it?. Thanks in advance. Jim

Can anyone advise on where to get a 24v controller to replace a Aprilia City Electric bike controller, It's got peddle torque control, and PAS (peddle assist) with a switched 3 settings control instead of a throttle.
Thanks

So I picked up a couple alternators at the local pick-a-part (damn core charge, lol). Now I want to build a controller to drive an alternator as a stepper motor.

The e-max controller uses a thin rubber-like sheet between FET's and the heat sink, heat sink compound is also used - on just one side I think...

Question - is the rubber sheet for heat transfer or some other function as well? When reattaching the FETS, should it be used with heat sink compound also? Should the compound be put on both sides?

I'd like to drive a standard DC motor (Perm or Etek) with a controller that can't tolerate CEMF. I'm thinking I can solve the problem by putting a freewheel, or snubber, diode across the outputs of the MOSFETs. I haven't measured the back EMF of these motors, but I typically see regen currents of up to 50 amps max. So I have two questions:

How best to measure CEMF? I do have access to some test bikes. Will I see the CEMF using a non-regen controller like the Alltrax? I admit to some laziness here - I should measure first, ask questions later.

I have 6 x 12v batterys in total, 2 x 20Ah and 4 x 15Ah to give a total 72v, I need advise on the best way to charge them up. Do I leave them all connected in series and put 2 x 36v chargers between each 3 sets of batterys, or will I need a 72v charger. I need the cheapest and best suggestions please.

Hi
Have been have problems for a while with getting the full voltage to show up on my DrainBrain.

For the last month have been using a C'lyte 36-72v 40a controller with 100v(88.8v nominal) worth of batteries.Has been a pain to get the full voltage to show up all the time.
I will turn the main power(key) switch on and sometimes 29v/39v/40v will show up instead of a 100v.
Repeat on/off of the main power switch will eventually get it working.

It does the same when using 88v(77v nominal)
This controller only had a red button ON/OFF switch
I have checked voltage coming out of the connection going to the controller from the batteries and it is the proper voltage -the problem i think is the inrush of power to the controller trips something out.

Just screwing around here.