Electric vehicle controllers and control systems

Awhile ago,someone pointed out that I forgot to include losses of the controller when calculating the efficiency % of power delivery to the motor from a battery .

My guts feeling response , without any research whatsoever was . " I hoped that efficiency was in the 92%-98% area and expected to be vary in relation to power delivery , expecting the 98% in the high power , the 92% in the low level region .

Was pleasantly informed by LinkOfHyrule

Hi. I've been lurking around for a while gathering info on different systems, and decided to join the forums - the V forums are by far the most informative I've ever found for data on electric motors and drivetrains.

I have a 1500 watt BMC 48 volt 3-phase brushless motor which I have had for about a year and a half. I couldn't be happier with the motor, but I'm cooking controllers out here in the deserts of Arizona. I have had the brushless controllers (4) which are rated stock at 55 amps modified to 70,80,90 and 100 amps, with varied degrees of success. However, the heat thats being generated is turning my controllers into solder meltdowns. I have added fans, which have helped, but I need to know who makes a 3-phase brushless controller that would match up to the motor I have.

:? I own a Flybo 6000 - one of those Chinese-made Smart Car look-alikes that is all electric. It has a 72 volt system with 6 12-Volt deep cycle lead acid batteries and a 110 charger. On the dashboard it has a Current Meter, which appears to show the amps being drawn (ranging from 1 - 15 and then 20,30, 40 in the RED) and a Voltage meter, which appears to give the system voltage load.

Here's the problem:

I overvolted my 24 Volt Controller to 36 Volts. This was to overvolte my G1 Electric skateboard. Link had previously done this successfully, even to 48 Volts. When I did this, I heard a few popping sounds, kind of like popcorn. There was not any smoke or anything, nor any smell, but now there is no voltage getting to the motor. I confirmed that the batteries and motor are fine. so it must be the controller. Is there any way to repair this, and make it more friendly to 36 Volts ? I am not an electrical kind of guy, but I can solder, and follow diagrams.

Hi, Folks! Here is an idea I have been working on for my "Deep Cycle" electric motorcycle conversion... One thing that always bugs me about contactors is the fact that they waste energy just holding in the solenoid. And they cost a good buck for control of a lot of current. This method uses a 200+ amp, continuous rating, knife switch and a automotive door lock actuator. The switch is closed manually. Then, in the event of an emergency, 12-24 volts is momentarily applied to the actuator. The actuator is pulled in by a miniature DC motor, not a solenoid.

The question...
My wife has an EV1...the Iacocoa bike.
she loves it but I'm getting tired of buying Gel Cells for it.
I am considering buying one of Ping's batteries for it.

The question I have is regarging the controller on the EV1.
the EV1 uses 2x 12v 12 Ah batts.
can I use a 36v pack with this controller?
I assume it is a current feeback PWM controller...
if such is well designed I should be OK but I don't know.

should I just have Ping build up a 24v 25 AH pack for me?

Can anyone point me in the direction of a speed limiter circuit? I'm thinking of something that would go inline with a speed control pot, and start cutting power as a specific speed is approached. It seems like the controllers I've been looking at (24V 40-75Amp) don't have this kind of feature built in.

I have a 48V brushless Skyhawk electric bicycle kit. It has a cut-off switch built into the hand brake lever. I can't use this hand brake so I was wondering if someone could explain how the cut-off switch works so I could fabricate one myself. I can't identify the model or make of my controller. The cut-off switch has three wires black, green and red they plug into controller wires black, blue, red respectively. I'm not that knowledgeable about electronics; I would have thought the cut-off switch was just a circuit breaker but if this is the case I don't know why there are three wires.

I am ready to wire my electric motorcycle, and I was hoping to use an anti-corrosive paste on my crimp connections and battery connections.

I am NOT soldering my lugs on the cables, so please refrain from posting about why or why not I should solder my connections. Thanks in advance. ;)

I thought it was just going to be a quick trip to the electrical supply store, pick the paste up, and crimp & heat shrink away. Upon researching I found several options. Penetrox is a paste with zinc particles in it, but they offer 4 types.
Noalox is a similar product.