Okay I got my 409 motor finally and being new to the hub motor arena need some help. First off I wanted to put the motor on a wheel stand and test it out along with my new motor controller before spending close to 100 bucks to get it built into a rim. Already I am confused…included is some hardware attached to the axel. On side one with no wires (pictured below) there are two drop out locks (one of which only fits on the back groove which is larger), a lock washer, and lastly a nut. FIRST QUESTION: why are there two drop out locks and are they in the correct order.
Rim side two (with wires)(pictured below) only has a washer then a nut. QUESTION TWO: When I mount this on the stand or a bike am I supposed to put an additional nut on the motor or just loosen the nut that already there. I’m guessing additional nut because it looks as if that current nut is protecting the plastic with the wires.
QUESTION THREE: Do I need a home built torque arm? I plan to run this motor at 66v at 20 amps so that equals at peak power 1320 watts, almost 2 hp IN!
Let me know if there are any other suggestions for setting up this motor. In theory this system should be awesome!
PS sorry for the oversized pics just wanted to make sure you could see
You remove the nuts and washers, place the motor in a fork, then on each side you place the washer, the locking washer, then the nut. There should be one locking washer on each side. It's strange you have two completely different types of nut, washer, and locking washer, but there's nothing special about them and you can go to any hardware store to get replacements or alternatives if desired, particularly for the washers.
A torque arm is strongly recommended.
So the wire side nut comes off and then I place the fork directly against the wire holder/plastic thing?
just wondered what the weight and diameter of the motor is, also if you are going to run at 66 volts are u getting the dewalt batteries, and what kind of controller will you be using, sorry about not answering any questions but posing more, but i am a step behind you, I have a frame and all components - fork, - electrical. Thanks,
mike
The torque arm thing is always debateable. If you torque the nuts really tight, but careful not to strip them, the clamping friction is supposed to prevent rotation. If there's not enough friction and the things twists, it will tear the dropouts off the fork, usually resulting in an ugly mess. It's hard to make a decent torque arm that's strong enough to actually do the job. If I was installing one of those, I would definitely try some kind of torque arm.
Imagine having the nuts a bit loose and twisting the axle with a huge wrench. There's a large spreading force on the dropouts that will cause failure.
The best torque arm designs I've seen use a piece of metal with a double D shaped hole that matches the axle. You want the torque arm metal to go all the way around the axle.
Burb72:
The motor weighs about 14 pounds and thats with no rim. I just mailed the motor off so I'm not able to measure the diameter. I am plan on using 4 dewalts to 2 series 2 parallel. You can see my old set up Here about half way down with all the photos. I burned up my old scooter pushing 130 amps with all the dewalt running 4p 1s (33V). For the controller I purchased the Cystalyte instant start 20amp 36v - 72v controller. If you have any more question let me know. My set will be up in running when I come back from Europe, I just sent the rim off to be built and should be back 25th of may and I get back the 18th of June. I'll keep you all posted.
Thank you for all the info I really appreciate it,
mike
My 408 wheel should arrive in a day or two. I will be using the same battery setup. Should be interesting.