I have an XLyte crystalyte motor on my mountainbike. I have six 12v 12ah SLA's hooked up to to two 36v chargers. It goes through a 35amp controller. Yesterday when I tried to throttle the power just cut off. It was like I had a loose connection or something. I checked the electrical system, and no bad connection. But there was a bad smell from the controller. The red light still comes on when I turn on the controller. My question is: how can I test the controller to see if it is the problem? Is there a fuse in there? I do have a voltmeter, can I use it to test it somehow?
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`praskal,
Welcome to our V is for Voltage Community, I'm sure help will be here shortly.
I know next to nothing about your problem, what controller are you using?
Stleride
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Well, I'm using a crystalyte 35amp, 36-72v immediate start controller. I'm sure many people are using the same thing...
Patrick
`
The C7235SI?
Yes there are members here that have some knowledge about the Crystalyte 72V 35A Start Immediate Controller.
Good luck, hope you back on the road real soon.
Peace Out,
Gman
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Peace Out, <img src="http://tinyurl.com/ysafbn">
Gman
YES. That's the one.
Patrick
I figured it out. Mosfets are cracked and fried. Had to get a new controller.
Patrick
`
Very good, I've seen the word Mosfets several times here.
What do you thinks caused the problem?
Peace Out,
Gman
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Gman
Well, I guess because we use them really hard for the application of ebike power. So this puts incredible constant strain on them. Just a matter time, I've been told... Too bad because the money you save in not using gas goes to getting new controllers, batteries, etc...
Patrick
There have been many reports of failure with that model, especially at higher voltages. From my testing, I suspect the FETs are not adequate for the conditions. I have replaced the FETs on mine with different ones that have a higher rating. I've run over 100 amps at 60v with no failure. It doesn't get nearly as hot anymore either.
With adquately rated FETs, the controller should last longer than everything else.
There's a long-winded technical description of this controller here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=764
Wow. Maybe then I should replace the FET's. It sounds like the controller comes with IRFB4710 which is supposed to handle 100V, and 75amps. May I ask specifically what FET you upgraded to? Where can I get them? How much are they?
Did you replace anything else in the controller?
Patrick
Patrick
IRFB4110's are the best. 100v rated. They will handle more current than the wiring, so they're pretty bulletproof.
I have one controller running IRFB3808's, which are only rated for 75v, and have a higher on resistance, but they are much cheaper.
Keep in mind that the actual current on the FETs is much higher than the current limit on the batteries. As much as 3 times higher during acceleration.
I went ahead and purchased a new controller for the time being (since I don't even own a soldering iron yet). I got a 72v, 20amp, immediate start controller. It is decidedly slower than the 35amp, which is ok since 35mph on a bike is fast enough. But it craps out on hills sometimes. I think this has to do with the thermal cuttoff. Anyway, I was wondering if the 20amp controller could be modified to update the MOSFETs and up the amps??
Patrick
Patrick
`Fechter
If I do decide to upgrade is the Crystalyte 72V 35A Start Immediate Controller still a good buy, or should I wait for the modified versions you mentioned?
Peace Out,
Gman
Now that we have clarified our beliefs, your invited to join us as we begin building on them to define our Community Mission Statement
Peace Out, <img src="http://tinyurl.com/ysafbn">
Gman