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Submitted by Spoiled Spoiler on Fri, 09/04/2009 - 10:05
Basic chrome plastic "motorcycle" headlight, converted to run 2 watt High intensity super white 12mm LED, basic red plastic rear tail reflector wired and lit with LEDs. Will be adding turn signals, running lights and old school "AAAhh-OO-GA!!!" horn.
Number of wheels:
Bought a bone stock Schwinn Stingray Spoiler and soon after decided to convert it to electric. Little did I know then what a mess I was getting myself into. At first, I thought I would be happy with swapping the front wheel for a hub motor and that would be it. Boy was I wrong. With the Springer front end the motor groaned constantly and the wheel hop was real nasty. After spending a month doing some research, I finally decided what to do. My first attempt and higher performance was really simple. Add a big motor with a big sprocket to the rear wheel; add some big batteries and we'good right??? So... in went a 1000w brushed motor and a 90 tooth sprocket. Hauled ass when moving but had zero torque and was super hot after 10 mins. After a few back breaking hours of work and adjustments I was happy.... for awhile. After adding the perm mag motor and SLA battery pack, the bike was a beast to pedal.
A year later the bike was ready for round 3. After much debate concerning what kind of upgrade to go with, a fresh batch of used Schwinn Stingray Electric bikes were all over Craigslist and EBAY. I found one in good condition and robbed every part I could find. I wanted just the OE hub motor that was laced to the 20" x 4.25" rear wheel. Stock ratings were very low and so was the performance. At 24v the donor bike maxed at 15 mph. Then I added another 12v and then the motor had finally some balls. Almost 5 mph faster at 36v. So I began swapping the rear wheel on my Spoiler and made a big mistake. I took my original rear wheel and leaned it against the front wheel. Later when taking a smoke break, I looked at my Spoiler with the wide 4.25" tire next to the skinny 2.1". I loved the look of the wide tire up front. I thought how hard could it be?? So I decided to find another hub motor and go all out. A week later I found one and bought it. I am still working on my custom designed and milled triple clamps for the 4.25" wheel in front. The OE triple clamp is made from aluminum and measures 5/8" thick for the top piece and 3/4" thick for the bottom clamp. I purchased some raw aluminum from McMaster Carr as well as a 2" x 12", 1/8" thick sheet of 316 stainless steel for my torque arms. A local CNC shop wanted $500 to make them, but I simply can't justify spending that much so I'm milling them at work when I can. It is taking forever but I'm not spending $500. The bike only cost me $550. At some point I will also remake whole new steel dropouts for the Springer instead of the stock aluminum ones. So far my stainless steel torque arms are working for now. The hub motors come with the standard 24t threaded hubs. The rear one has the stock freewheel and a hub adapter for a 6 bolt 180mm rotor. The front hub motor has had the freewheel removed and two hub adapters bolted up to 2 180mm rotors. The debate still contiunes about which type of brakes I'll be using. Mechanical or Hydraulic....any input on this issue would be appreciated. The front end also has a basic “motorcycle” headlight as well as an iron cross tail light. Both came stock with "1157" 12v bulbs in them and will be soon swapped with high output LEDs. The chrome plastic battery case from the donor bike now houses my both of my motor controllers, key switch, XLR charging port and some diagnostic LEDs. Its kinda cheese ball for sure but it resembles a V-Twin motor and fits perfectly in between the cranks and is complemented by a fiberglass gas tank with a set of speakers, my audio system volume control, a Watt's Up meter and an IPOD dock molded into it. The "mini" subwoofer will be housed inside either the V-twin case or I was thinking about making a fiberglass fake oil cooler that can mount under the saddle. For now the entire system is powered by a 96 lbs 12v, 35ah SLA battery pack wired to 48v hidden in Saddlebags. The whole rear end of the bike has had battery trays permanently welded to the frame and the bags cover the batteries well. At some point when I have an extra $800 just floating around in my pocket I will swap them out with a LIFE4po battery that weighs only 15 lbs. When that happens, I'll adios the battery trays and saddlebags entirely, shaving over 90 lbs of dead weight. I still have a ton of work to do before it even ready for its next ride. Even then it wont be long before the backbone is chopped and I soft tail it with a mono-shock. If anyone else is interested in converting their Spoiler to a 4.25” wide front tire, please follow my progress and start placing some orders or deposits for these triple clamps. If I can get 10 people to buy them, I can have them all made for $250 a piece. Stay tuned for some new pics......
TNC-Scooters: 48v, 2.5a & Old 12v Trickle charger, 1.5a
San Juan Capistrano / California
Power Factor: (4) 12v, 35ah & Power Factor: (1) 12v, 12ah
Conversion time and cost:
Not a good question to ask. This information will discourage others. Especially in this case. Too much.
Ananda 198 BLDC Hub Motor (x2)
Method for 12v system:
Seperate 12ah battery for lights, audio system, phone charger, i-pod, ect.....
BL4815: (48v, 350w, 15a max, E-Crazyman) (x2)
Watt-hours per mile:
Miles as an EV:
Unknown - not finished