Lights, horns, turn signals fail 4 or 5 seconds after turned on (Xm-4000li)
Just got my xm-4000li (used). The bike has been in storage for months. It was shipped to me from New York. I got my first ride to check it out when the battery was about 20% full. I went for 2 blocks around the neighborhood. At about 150 yards back to my house, the red LED on the dashboard started blinking, and bout 20 seconds later, all of the lights and turn signals went away. The bike was still running so I rode home for 150 yards with no lights. As soon as I got back, I plugged it in. It took several hours to complete. After the battery was charged %100, I turned the key to on, the red LED was on solid, turn signals, lights, and horns worked for about 15 seconds. Then the lights slowly dimmed and went away. However, the motor still worked well and have full power. When I turned everything off and turned it back on again, for the subsequent times the lights only came on for 4 or 5 seconds or less. Could it be my DC-DC converter is bad? Loose wire? Blown fuse? Thanks.
My guess is it's the dc-dc converter or you're over loading it.. Put a voltmeter on its output. If it fails, then put the voltmeter on its input. If voltage stays good on the converter input but output fails, then you know it's the converter or it's load is too high as in there might be a short in the wiring. So disconnect the load and put an ammeter between the load and the converter to see if you're drawing more current than it can handle.
That is interesting. In 13,005 miles the lights on my 4000li have never done that. For starters, how many miles do you have on it? What is your voltage at full charge? And how did you determine that it had 20% capacity remaining? You really don't want to run these cells low, ever. I once saw my turn signals stop working during a ride, but turning the key off and back on resolved that. My headlights went off once when the breaker flipped due to hard accelaration up a hill, but again, turning the key off and back on fixed it, and the next 5,000 miles were fine. Again, I am at 13,005 miles, so I have gone halfway around the planet with everything original except the tires and brake pads, and the 4000li has been a troublfree dream to ride.
Someone may have replaced a bulb with a higher wattage part, or added an extra 12 volt device, thus OVERLOADING the DC/DC convertor! Check the ratings of the bulbs, ESPECIALLY the headlight, and be sure that high and low beams do NOT light at the SAME time. Most of these bikes do NOT take well to additional current loads of the DC/DC convertor. Check the STOCK wattage ratings, do not exceed them.
A quick and easy way to test the DC/DC converter is to put it on low beam, or better yet turn the lights off, if you have that option, and see if things stay on under minimum load. If they do, turn on the high beam and turn signal; if that kills the accessories it's the converter or the connections to it, or high-current lighting.
Oh, and check the main 12 volt fuse. On the XM-3000 it's down in front in the body - I don't know where it is on your scooter. Usually a dirty main fuse contact or defective fuse (looks unblown but won't pass current) will result in no 12 volt accessories, but you could have contacts or a fuse that are just marginal, acting more like a resister than an open circuit.
Is there a way for you to measure battery voltage as you ride with a real meter? If it can hang in there 1 60 some volts you might be good. But if you drop to 55 to 50 volt relatively fast then the battery pack is old and tired. Also if the pack is stored with out being charged first, it may also be weak. I don't know how Lithium packs do on leaving them stored in a half used state? I really try to charge them after all uses. As a matter of fact even my Gel Cell Green-savers I leave on charge 24/7 most of the time. The Vectrix is the only scooter I have that won't stay charged. After an hour or two and no more than three hours it turn off with 17 bars.
Input voltage anywhere from 36 to 72 volts is OK with your DC/DC converter! The smaller fuse goes on the higher voltage, because current is always LESS there. On the 12 volt side, actual current should NOT exceed 12.5 amperes, I would expect about 8 amps, with high beam headlight and brake lights ON. If you measure MORE than this, on the 12 volt side, that can be why the converter fails! (If you can repair the connections, and MEASURE the 12 volt amperage actually drawn, you might see if it is excessive)--Converter MIGHT still be GOOD!
i think that part will work fine. he seems full of it. however i wouldn't give up on your old part just yet. take it apart. repair what is broke, etc. at least be sure it isn't a loose wire issue.
I would try cleaning off the "RED WIRE" and its connection point, and then carefully re-soldering it and testing. It is very possible bthat the wire came loose under load, and the current tried to continue to flow thru the resulting ARC, generating the heat and discoloration. Carefully SCRAPE and sand the terminal, to expose clean, shiny metal before soldering.-If not skilled in this, get someone that is, to assist!