Hey Dogman and All who are interested,
My Brushless Wilderness Energy BL-36 is now back on the road with a new 72V 20A pedal first Crystilyte controller. The wiring was simple to figure out. Under the outer coating and shrink wrap at the Anderson motor conncetors are the same color wires that match the WE BL36 motor conncetion. It was simple to wire Blue to Blue, Green to Green and Yellow to Yellow. The Battery connection is your stock Red and Black... There is a 6 months waranty with the Crystilyte controller and a return policy within a week of receipt. So I decided to protect the case from scratches by wrapping the controller in thin cardboard with duct tape. It fits good behind the seat.
So How did it perform? I took it out today and road 20-22 miles on a fully charged Ping Lipo 4 (48V 20A). On the concrete roads around my house, it did the ususal 23-25 mph on flat ground. I put on about 4 miles on regular roads and then traveled to a bike and walker trail. The trail is compacted chat/gravel and right now a little rough. On the trail traveling into the Wind, I averaged 21 mph for 11 miles. Coming back with the wind behind me I averaged 23 mph on the trail. Both directions no or very little pedaling. Ran out of Ping before I got back to my truck. I switched the Ping out for the stock 36V SLAs.
I was averaging 19-20 mph with the SLAs without pedaling until the SLAs started losing power.
So, the bottom line = the new controller performs about the same as the stock controller that burned out... Next test will be the short hop to work on paved roads (4-5 miles each way)... At this point, the controller works as good as the old one with hope it will last. It looks really well made but "what do I know"!!!
Dogman, do you need any additional info. I will follow up with more info after another street ride or two...
Cheers,
Matt (ajw)
That's all we needed. I just wanted to know for sure it was the right combo, and wouldn't do something wierd on the road like make the motor get hot, or have a strangely low speed or something. The main thing that could be an issue is the WE controller is higher amps than the 20 amp Crystalyte one. So it might have felt weak with a bigger motor. But most of the time your motor will draw less than 20 amps, so top speed should have been unaffected, but speed up hills may be less. Actually it's a good thing, since your controller is better matched to the ping battery now, and you should be straining the battery a bit less on starts and hills. If the controller was too weak, there is a simple mod to the controller that can be done to get a few more amps, but not too much out of it. The info is now on the sphere too. Thanks.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
Thanks Dogman,
What would you do to boost the amps. Is it discussed somewhere? Can you provide the address? It might be weaker up hill.. I got to find out with rides to and from work when weather permits... Rain today, Snow Saturday!!!
Cheers,
Matt
Arno J. Wulfert
Sorry I missed the question, look for threads on the endless sphere on modifying a shunt. There you should find pix of a shunt, and how to put a spot more solder on one. This reduces the resistiance of the shunt, who's purpose is to limit the amps to a device. Just a tiny bit of solder will shorten the resistive wires in the shunt, allowing more amps to flow through. To do it right, an ampmeter is a good idea to keep from going too far, so a cycleanalyst would work for that. Don't go too far or the new controller could fry other components. I'd leave it alone unless you are having a real problem getting up a hill or something. A 20 amp controller should be all you need for most riding. Moding the shunt will not make the motor faster at cruise. It will just give it more amps when it needs it to climb hills or get started. 90% of the time you are going to draw less than 20 amps, even at full throttle climbing not so steep hills.
Over at the enless sphere, a good explanation of the shunt on clyte controllers, a pic of it, etc. Look in Ebike Technical, for Cyatalyte controllers, repair and modification informantion. A few posts down on page one is the place. just a bit more solder on two of the wires would get you to 30-40 amps.
Be the pack leader.
36 volt sla schwinn beach cruiser
36 volt lifepo4 mongoose mtb
24 volt sla + nicad EV Global
Hello, new here looking to replace my WE controller after the 3rd bad one...
any update here on how this Crystlite permormed for the long haul???
thanks
AJ,
Did your BL-36 have only 3 wires for the Blue, Yellow, Green ?
Mine has 6 wires, 2 Blue, 2 Green, and 2 yellow.
What kind of controller do I need ?
I am trying to understand why I have the extra wires.
This is supposed to be a 2008 WE BL-36 kit, with the 50Amp controller that i bought last year.
I bought the kit in 2008,
so maybe they sold me an old kit....
They said it was a new one.
Hi,
my first post, Goodbye virginity Hello Information. I have a similar set up as you. W/E BRUSH motor (not bl) 48volt lithium battery and I had the WE 36v controller that I thought went bad because as i was putting a load on the throttle after just a short distance on flat ground before it got a chance to be hot it would turn itself off and I would need to wait 10 minutes then it would work again but I could barely give it any throttle. I had been pushing 48volts through it for close to a year and I thought it just gave out on itself. I bought the crystilyte 48volt controller to replace it from electricrider.com I hook it all up and the same thing happens even though it is 48volts. Which makes me think that it is something in the wheel but those are new brushes and new brush holder. I am frustrated and confused and desperate for information and to get my bike back on the road. It is my main source of transportation. The one thing I do notice is that if I lift the wheel off the ground with no load on it there is no problem. ANY Suggestions would be fantastic!
Thanks!