Kelly controls throttle response much smoother
I just replaced the controller in my 3500li with a kelly controller and the first thing I noticed is a HUGE difference in throttle response. The kelly is super smooth compared to the stock unit. The speed is the same. I'm going to try hooking up the regen braking tomorrow. The owner of the company is a great guy he invited me over to his house and then even came over to my house to help when I had trouble getting it working. A real class act. Here's a funny thing though. We were both trying to figure out what the green and yellow wires were (which I later realized was the high/low speed switch) since they were puting out 81v and there was nothing to hook them to, we didn't hook them up. So later I get it mounted and take off to see how fast she'll go. I have it in low speed and I get up to at least 45mph, so I get real excited thinking how fast will it go in high speed mode. So I go back get a jacket (suns going down and it's gettin cold) Going to a better road to see what the high speed does. Still kind of giddy from the whole experience I never thought of those two wires. I get out on a good stretch of road and let her fly expecting a burst of acceleration all of a sudden...DING those were the high/low speed wires dummy. So there's no high/low speed switch now but it's so smooth who needs it? I'll post the procedure for hooking up the regen when I have it. That is all.............
Glad you like your Kelly controller - we've always enjoyed working with Kelly.
A couple of questions:
1) What model of controller do you have?
2) How does acceleration compare between the old controller and the new controller?
Does anybody know how Kelly achieves the smooth low-end throttle response?
If it is some sort of "conditioning" of the throttle input, then maybe we could do something like that on, in, or for the XM-nnn controllers?
The XM-5000Li's controller is called "digital" ... does antbody know why?
Does it do PWM of the power to the motor, and perhaps the lowest power setting (above zero) is (abruptly) 1/255 of full power?
it didnt take long, but you now have the biggest controller in a bike (except for maybe killacycle with a zilla 1k).
*hands over trophy*
600A 72v is a big controller for a scooter :D
let me know when you get the brake throttle working...when i enable mine, it just defaults to max braking (which hauls me down from 40mph to 0 in 4 sec)
so...out of curiostity, how long till you go to 25 cells for a higher top speed?
my solution to getting the brake signal was to hook an old automotive relay to the rear brake light, and the switch side to the controller.
that way whenever im braking, the regen is happening.
unfortunately, the braking effect at 0 throttle (or the braking throttle disabled in software and disconnected) was *really* strong.
After 19 x 2 drag-racing stints with 20 intermediate pitstops out in the open for reprogramming I have finally been able to grasp the effects of "Max Motor Current" and "Max Battery Current" in the Kelly KEB/KBL controllers (not only the Chinese do Reverse Engineering ;).
I used my KEB72801X-equipped E-Rider Thunder with their 5/8kW 13 inch Hub motor. Speed was unlimited and "Balanced" mode employed.
For the sake of understanding here are two graphs.
First of all the variation of "Max Motor Current" with "constant" 70% (of "Max Motor Current", therefore of course not really constant) "Max Battery Current". Depcited is the full load battery current over Motor RPM resp. vehicle speed:
It is easily visible that the effect of "Max Motor Current" is a parallel displacement of the maximal current gain until the back-EMF drop-off is reached. This maximum current gain gradient CANNOT be influenced via the GUI-programming, but must be stored in the firmware or in not accessible storage areas. "Max Motor Current" thus also defines the start-up current, which incidentally was my biggest initial headache with the too weak original KBL72201 in my Fury-Thunder...
Here is the variation of "Max Battery Current" at now truly constant "Max Motor Current":
Just as nicely it can be seen here that the effect of "Max Battery Current" is an almost vertical parallel displacement of the current progression between the maximum current gain gradient and the in all settings identical back-EMF drop-off. Thus the current peaks can be "ironed out" and possibly be made more suitable for the battery. Beware! The startup current ist only reduced once "Max Battery Current" drops below the maximal startup current.
These two principles also apply 1:1 to all combinations of the two settings, of which I also tested out a whole bunch.
The normal goal with a PM-synchroneous motor is to keep the current constant and as high as possible from startup until back-EMF drop-off - within the limitations that motor-, controller- and battery health imply - and then to follow the (disregarding field weakening tricks) inevitable current suffocating drop caused by counter induction down to maximum idle-RPM of the motor. As my motor reaches an equvialent idle RPM speed of approx. 100km/h at 72V it is called a "100km/h" motor...
This back-EMF drop-off CANNOT be influenced via the programming, only by available battery voltage. The only reason that this drop-off is slightly reduced after each test run is the slow drop in battery voltage as well considerable heating up of all components involved. The heat came from 21,3Ah fired at only 17km overall driving distance :-) With my normal commute the ratio is the other way round...