XM-3000 & XM-3100 DC - DC converter
I have a couple of XM-3000 and a couple of XM-3100's and Headlight and turn signal stopped working and found the Converter under the floor mat and it was wet. The double sided stickey tape stuck to floor of bike along with specs saying 60 volt is 12 volt out I guess since it is backward reading thru tape. It seem strange that the color coding from the bike all of them says Grn, Blk, and Yel go into the converter Blk, Yel, then Red. in other words is the Green wire to go to the black wire on converter? Then the black wire of bike go to Yellow wire=10.5 volts when it did work. and the Yellow wire on the scooter is 68.0 volts to Fused red wire on converter. I have an open ticket but need to ride the bike so I think I will use a 12 volt battery for lights till order arrives.
It seem like a bad place to put an electrical device where it can get wet and fail. Strange color coding in my book. On my Vectrix the 12.0 volt is 11.5 volt out too. All seem to run on the low side of 12 volts. If there is room under headlight cowling I will re-mount it there? Also the yellow wire is fused for 20 amperes and the wire is about 18 or maybe 16 AWG. Safe? Not.
Rusty - I sent you an email but I'll post as well.
I have what is essentially an xm2000 and the converter just failed.
I want to wire a battery in for 12 volt just as you discribe but I can't figure out where to wire it.
You just can't wire it to the converter plug "out" wires. I tried that. I suspect you have to do it where the power lead goes into the PDI (for power) unit but I'm afraid to short it out.
As others on this forum know, all kinds of components have failed on my bike. Now this..
Any ideas would be helpful.
PEACE - Scott
Using the thundersky LiFePO battery is a good choice, as the discharge voltage remains at or above 13 volts for a long time, providing better light output than the lower voltage of a lead-acid battery or the stock D.C. converter. Most automotive "12 volt" lights and other devices are actually DESIGNED to operate best with 13 to 14 volts applied. Normal battery voltage in most cars, with the engine running, is 13 to 14.5 volts. Headlights are noticably DIMMER at or below 12.0 volts, use 13.5 volts for good brightness and bulb life, higher voltage will be ven brighter, but exceeding 14.0 volts will noticably shorten bulb life. (At 15.0 volts, they WILL be BRIGHT!)--Vectrix also has low voltage, about 12.0 volts, ideal would be about 1.5 volts more.----Bob
I tried what you suggested - postive battery to yellow, negative battery to black on cut off converter plug and I burnt the fuse on the black bike side wire...
Isn't working for me. Your discribtion of the wires in and out seem accurate. I tested with a volt meter and the Red/yellow is 68,v the yellow/black is 10.55v and the black/green is negative ground.
Don't know what I'm missing.
The other issue is that it looks like you're just getting head light and tail light and not break light, shifter, or turn signals???? Or are you?
Thanks again for your help on this. I've rebuilt the whole bike as it has failed, but this is bugging me!
I hate the CHINESE! Specifically Moutain Chen and Allen Chen and their American "Renfield", Tracy Ingram of defunct Nova Scooters.
To SCOTT: No, you have it backwards! Green is negative, or GROUND, and BLACK is POSITIVE, or HOT for the scooter 12 volt system! (I guess they took this from HOUSEHOLD wiring, for A.C. power, where BLACK is the "hot" wire, and GREEN is the ground.--My "Pantera" scooter was the same way, I replaced the underfloor D.C./D.C. converter with a bigger, better unit, installed under the seat. Now it has 13.8 volts at 12 amperes! Great for lights and accessories, including RADIO!-Bob
Robert - I realized I typed in in backwards, please see my revised post above...still doesn't work, just fries the fuse on the black hot wire...I'm missing something or there is a short somewhere up the line...
My motor circut works fine. Can run the motor. When the converter unit went out I lost all the "front" of the bike: lights, shifter, horn, etc...
What do you mean by SLI?
My scooter has the same converter as you show in picture.
I put an amp meter on the circuit from the converter plug to what I think is power out to the pdi meter and I think I might have a short in that line. Not sure.
Also, are you saying that when you take the converter out you still have horn, shifter, etc, just not head light?
I'm getting confused. Maybe just tired.
The DC-DC converter on my XM-3000 kicked the bucket last week. It had been making bad sounds pretty much the whole time I've owned it. Unfortunately my warranty had expired. Rather than pay the crazy price for a new one I just bought a computer switching power supply from ebay for $10 including shipping:
I wired the 110VAC input into the old 60V DC input from the batteries, connected the ground wires together, and the +12V to the yellow wire. Powered it on, and bingo, got lights again! I put silicon over the seams since this DC-DC converter isn't waterproof and put it into the "glove compartment" to keep it free from water. If it fails, it's only $10, I can try to do a better water proofing job.
Yeah, technically 67.5V but even after 50% DOD it was still putting out 12V. :) Look forward to hearing about your results.
Glad I could help.