Hi guys,
im looking for some spare parts for an emax sport.
does nyone know where i may be able to source a charger and controller in australia?
i need a second charger for faster turn around time.
I plan to upgrade my current controller with stronger fets and capacitors so it can take 96v, but i want a spare stock controller in case the fets blow in the upgraded one( the current rating on the new fets arent as high as in the stock controller)
i dont nescessarily need a working stock controller as i can upgrade a damaged one instead. a controller that has been damaged due to someone else raising the voltage would be ideal.
any help in finding these parts would be much appreciatied
regards,
Matt
the_anti_scab [at] hotmail.com
`antiscab
Welcome to our V is for Voltage Community, your only looking in Australia?
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antiscab,
I think your probable only recourse is to look for a replacement controller for a Kasea (or possibly other) scooter that uses the same controller. As far as a 96 volt upgrade, are you looking to use it on a different cycle? The speed that a 10" rim, shimmy-prone e-max could achieve on 96 volts is a scary proposition. The e-max needed an amperage-limit increase as much or more than a voltage increase, so I'm happy with 60 volts. The amperage limit can easily be increased to about 100 amps without apparent harm to controller or motor.
Go here - and cursor down to find what worked...
http://visforvoltage.org/forum-topic/motorcycles-and-large-scooters/166-more-e-max-controller-mods-shunt-resistor-trick
btw, good nick,
PJD
AFGE-NCFLL local 644
I’ve also been toying around with the idea of running my other E-Max at 96v by putting all eight batteries in series. I would use the IRFP90N20D fets http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=73044&Row=719408&Site=US and just connect the DC-DC converter and the controller logic to the first 4 batteries but I’m concerned that the lacquer on the motor windings may brake down under the high voltage. Also I’m having trouble finding capacitors over 100 volts that will fit on the controller.
I don’t know how practical it would be either but it is an intriguing idea and from my observations with voltage increases in suspect that it would be able to reach over 60mph. But for now it’s not a high priority on my list of things to do thing to do.
Keith
2006 E-Max sport @ 60v
http://keiths-evs.blogspot.com/
Keith
2006 E-Max sport @ 60v
http://keiths-evs.blogspot.com/
Stleride,
Im happy to buy from someone outside of australia
PJD,
for the majority of use i find my emaxs acceleration torque (acceleration) to be adequate, fortunately where i live it isnt particularly hilly. i can out accelerate my minivan }:) well, until about 45kmh when acceleration begins to drop off.
i find a top speed of 60 to be restricting at times, particularly on 70kmh zones.
a 60 volt mod would certainly do the trick for me, however i require the storage capacity under the seat. I also require the full stock range, as i usually do more than 40km in a day and the range falls significantly at ambient temperatures below 10c, so i couldnt just remove 3 batteries and wire the remaining in series. That means my only other options were to replace the battery pack completely or modify the controller. I chose the later as i believe it is cheaper. though it does carry the risk of just not working, and if it does work i cant increase the current limit. If the mod doesnt work, or is to difficult i will replace the battery pack, most probably with these: http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3140
If i were to stick with agm lead acid, i would need a new charger and would want a battery managment system, so i figure i may aswell go all the way and have lithium. hopefully i wont have to do this anytime soon....sticker shock :jawdrop:
Keith,
I read an earlier post, which i think you posted, about doing the 96v mod. I bought a dozen of the fets u mentioned. I aslo sourced replacement capacitors rated to 250V here: http://www.futurlec.com/CapHVElectro.shtml
i doubt the laquer will break down due to the voltage directly, dielectric breakdown for most materials happens on the order of megavolts. It could degrade due to heat though, as increased wind resistance at the higher speed will mean more current. I dont intend to go much faster than i would be able to stock though, maybe 25% faster so 56% more heat. i dont think this will present a problem but wont know for sure until i actually do the mod. fortunately its winter here, and hopefully still will be when i complete the mod.
I prefer to have a spare controller handy when i perform the mod, as i want to be able to get the scooter back on the road quickly if i destroy a controller.
My emax has also developed a problem where for the first few minutes of being on its inoperable. Im pretty sure its a cracked solder joint within the controller, but have yet to open it up. Im pretty sure its the controller as he guys at emc (the australian distributor) have already replaced everything else, and couldnt figure out what was wrong. The fault isn't preventing me from riding so i have yet to take it back again, but having a spare controller to test with would be very handy to do at the same time.
thanks for the fast replys
matt
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
If you are thinking of tinkering as much as changing the operating voltage, please also consider rewiring for either a series-parallel plug or parallel 12V chargers for each buddy pair (you are using the buddy-pair wiring pattern, aren't you?). My next serious re-wire will implement a series-parallel plug. This will let me charge the pack from a single 12V charger. For use, I'll substitute a series-wired dummy plug.
IMHO, a series pack for any SLA battery is asking for premature pack failure due to imbalance. A series string of floodies can deal with equalizing changes to maintain balance, but a sealed lead acid has a VERY limited overcharge capacity. The E-Max parallel 48V series string setup is the worst of both worlds. Full-size EV car companies have gone bankrupt because of this.
For more bucks, you can also use battery balancing circuits.
MarkF
My experience has been that raising the controller amperage limit was much more effective at improving motor torque and acceleration than raising the voltage.
Raising the voltage is best used for improving top speed (which the e-max certainly needs too). For example, raising the amperage limit from 68 to 95 amps resulted in a dramatic increase in acceleration, but subsequently raising the voltage to 60 volts led to only a small additional increase in standing-start acceleration, the noticable difference being top speed.
Due to the square-of-the speed relationship for air drag and power required for higher speed, the e-max draws a lot of amps over 65 kph. With 3.5 x 10 tires, I measures 53 amps on level road at about 70 kph, and "turbo" has to be activiated to achieve the true top speed of about 75 kph. So, I suspect an amperage adjustment is also needed to realize the full speed potential at 72 volts or higher.
Oddly, raising the amperage seems to have increased my scooter range a bit as it allows the motor to stay at it's power curve peak on hills and a much less time is spent in a high power state getting to the top of the hill.
As far as contriller avaiability, There is a discouraged owner of an e-max who has two controllers - an old style controller and a new style controller, plus a broken but I believe easily repairable, old style controller. He isn't selling them yet, but I have laid claim on one of them - preferably the "new style" if he changes his mind - so I hope you'll understand that I'm reluctant to give you info on him.
Other sources for controllers are the discouraged and possibly bankrupt dealers in the US who were victims of the nearly 100% defective shipment of scooters and chargers to the US in early 2006 - followed by the scandalous liquidation of the e-max company to escape claims. Unfortunately, they may only be willing to sell you an entire new, but possibly inoperable scooter.
Here's a couple dealers to try:
http://www.lehighvalleysegway.com/
http://www.scootercommuter.com/
The other is Darrel Henschell in Fayetteville, Arkansas - I have the contact info at home.
MarkF
I have yet to implement the buddy pair system on my scooter. I hadnt intended to leave my scooter at 48v for this long, and so havent bothered to rewire. I agree the stock setup is very poorly thought through, fortunately the newer models arent setup so badly.
Ive bin planning to do the change to 96v since before i bought the scooter, i was intially planning to install 2 48v BattEq to maintain system balance, however im not going to bother anymore, as soon as the stock batteries are done i will upgrade to lithiums.
charging all the batteries with a single 12v charger would definately ensure the batteries are balanced on every charge. sounds like a good idea
PJD,
Thanks for the links, ill follow them up
The acceleration at present i believe is adequate, though you are probably correct in that i may need to look at current increase aswell to achieve a higher speed. unfortunately the new fets are rated to only 94A, as opposed to the stock fets at 200A.
i didnt realise so much current is required at 70kmh, ill have to measure the current draw on my scooter. Out of curiosity, how did you measure the current? was it on the input to the controller from the batterys, or was it output to the motor? If it was output to the motor, is that value RMS or peak? a 20% increase in speed (60 to 72) would mean 44% more wind resistance and current, in theory at least. seems even if i raise the voltage i wont get any better than 65 without increasing current aswell.
With your current modification have you run into any heat issues, particularly at higher speeds?
I stuffed up the calculation in my last post, a 25% increase in speed means 56% more current which means 244% more heat :O.
In regards to the guy who has the three controllers, if he does change his mind about selling them, please let me know privately.
thanks for your help so far, its much appreciated :)
matt
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
antiscab,
Actually the existing FETs (IRFP 2907's) are limited to 90 continuous amps by the package (the note in the data sheet). But the e-max controller uses pairs of FETS in parallel, (that's why there are 12 of them) so, it could handle a maximum continuous amperage of 180 amps. I was operating with the controller amperage limit completely disabled for a while and measured up to 190 amps for very brief spells. I refer you to the earlier mentioned thread (e-max controller mods - shunt resistor tricks) for info on this.
Th amps measured were input amps. using a homemade shunt using 10AWG (about 3mm) stranded wire. I measured the the resistance of a length of this wire, then cut a one milli-ohm length (this came out to 11.0 inches- 27.9 cm but probably varies a lot between mfg's and even lot numbers). This allowed a millivolt-meter hooked across the shunt to be read directly as amps while riding. The shunt fits easily in the relay compartment (easiest with an old-style e-max), and a small voltmeter is attached to the handlebar.
Some day, I will rig this up permanently on the scooter's panel using a LCD digital display. Watching the amps helps extend the battery range.
Hey folks:
I thought I would let you know that I still have an older model Emax Sport that I need to get rid of. I plan to part it out just to get it off my showroom floor. It is still "new" but it has no batteries with it. It is the 2000 watt version. Everything on it works as far as I know, so if anyone needs its controller or motor or anything else from it, just let me know. You can email joe [at] segwaypb.com
Joe.
I purchased the E-Max Sport from Joe, who I've known for several years and who has always been superb to deal with (thanks Joe!).
After about ten miles of great fun, I managed to kill something, probably the controller, by trying a standing start up a grade with too much weight on it.
I'll post another thread on this, but looking forward to some more fun miles and then a very interesting set of mods.
Since this thread is on e-max parts, I'll throw my hat into the ring: I'm interested in buying a spare controller and hub motor, or a whole scooter if the price is right.
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http://www.electric-car-insider.com/