Crystalyte

Hello!
I just finished installing a rear Crystalyte 408 Hub motor on a stretch cruiser frame. When the wheel is on the bike with no load (just on the kickstand) the wheel goes around smooth with no vibration. When I sit on the bike and take off, I feel vibration in the handle bars and seat until I reach higher speeds, then it goes away. I understand that these motors will vibrate the bike some, I have a 5303, and 5304, and they vibrate a tiny bit on start up, but nothing like this. Is there a problem with my controller or hub motor? Or is this behavior normal?

I am looking to build my first electric bike and I have some questions. First, let's use the most powerful setup, batteries and motor available. So, what would be the ideal setup? I weigh 170 lbs and am looking for a system that requires virtually no human powered assistance.

So I finally got a full suspension MTB off craigslist (like this: http://www.velosklad.ru/i/models/sredn/132.jpg). The only problem is that it has dual disc brakes. I have a rear wheel X5 Phoenix hub motor. Because of this, I can't use the rear disk brake. And apparently I can't install V-brakes because you can't drill into aluminum (or whatever it is). I can't figure out how to put the disc on the left side of the X5 motor.

my crysalyte is 48v niam and keeps blowing 20amp fuses,so i put a 40amp in and its ok,will it do any harm?,also when i accelerate it cuts out for a second then starts again,it does this the harder i accelerate,does any one know why?also should i keep my battery fully charged all the time or should i run it flat then charge it?

Hey Everybody,

I am running a Crystalyte motor at 48 volts. Currenlty I'm using SLA and I have 4 9AH 12 volt batteries.

I want to get a little more torque without sacrificing much range. Also, budget is a concern. Any suggestions?

My initial plan is to swap out the 4 SLAs with 4 SLAs that have a higher Amp Hour rating. Is that wise? Will I need a new controller?

How much can I expect to spend for NIMH?

Thanks for the help.

I know this is backward from most requests, but I'd like to be able to run a 72volt controller at 36v or 72 volts.

My reason is for testing out the performance of some batteries without having to fork out the $ for two of them.
After testing the battery, I'd get a second and run at 72volts. Also it would be interesting to be able switch back and forth between 36volts 40ah and 72volt 20ah.

Brian

From what I have read for the specs on the 5304 front motor, the width of the axle is 100mm. I am working to build a serial human electric hybrid e bike that will not use a chain to connect the crank arm to the rear wheel. For that reason, I don't need the cassette on the rear hub motor. I am trying to determine if I can use the front hub motor on the rear. It looks like I will have to replace the axle with a longer one. I understand that will take some fabrication. I figure it will allow me to make a mount for the rear disc brake too. I don't own the motor yet.

I have a Crystalyte 408 hub motor with a Journey CTPL-JNYF-LI36 Controller and 36v Li Battery.

Howdy there. I'm looking to scratch-build a non-pedal EV, but I'm posting it here because I'm looking to use a Crystalite 5303 Racer hub on a 26" bike wheel for the drive system.

I've got a few questions about performance, but first I'll post my general design info to give ya'll a picture of what I'd like to be running.

I purchased a X-408F Crystalyte hub motor. I got only the motor as I am building my own controller. It uses the standard round 5-pin connector for the hall effect sensors. I need the pinout for this connector. I also need to know the acceptable range of voltage for the hall effect sensors.

I have tried to contact Crystalyte to no avail.