Hello All
My VX1 has lost power. I was riding it and it felt like something had got stuck in the rear wheel. But in fact there was nothing there. Best way I can describe it is similar to a four cylinder internal combustion engine that's only running on two cylinders, the power is lumpy. I've checked the motor encoder for dust and that's all clean. I'm wondering if a fuse has gone somewhere?
Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in anticipation.
Vectrix motor lost power
Sat, 02/28/2015 - 04:34
#1
Vectrix motor lost power
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Can you provide more info?
Is the batterie voltage normal?
A message on the dash?
Does the strange behaviour happen at every speed?
A tip could be to do the encoder calibration routine and watch if that procedure goes ok.
On the motorcontroller PCB there are 3 fuses for each Phase. You could check these by measuring them on the outside solder pad or pull the fuse-caps.
And there recently was a thread detailing damaged encoder cables by the tip of the axle. When asembeled the cable makes a loop that can allow the bolt end of the axle to saw through the insulation and then the copper...
http://visforvoltage.org/forum/13955-another-odd-encoder-issue-now-fixed
My rides:
2017 Zero S ZF6.5 11kW, erider Thunder 5kW
Hi Hybride
I think you might be right. I have tried the encoder calibration routine without success.
How do I check the three fuses please? And if one has blown, where can I get a new one?
Many thanks
Keep it shiny side up!
Hi Hybride
I think you might be right. I have tried the encoder calibration routine without success.
How do I check the three fuses please? And if one has blown, where can I get a new one?
Many thanks
Keep it shiny side up!
The MC cover has to be removed. The fuses are on the MC Print. See the picture with removed caps. You have to check the upper 3.
You could solder a 30A car-fuse on top. Don't know where to get the original ones.
A fuse doesn't blow without a reason. Maybe the IGBT is short circuit or the capacitor. Measure if there is low or zero resistance between the fuse pin and +/-.
Did you have any issue before the incident? It is a known fact that the heatcompound between IGBT and cooling block is not very good. Check and tight the 4 screws of the IGBT block where you are there. Better is to renew the compound.
The motor controller won't stop working unless all 4 of the cap fuses are blown - also you will get a warning message on the dash saying cap cur error
might be interesting to trigger the motor rotate test - same way you triggered the calibration, but holding the other brake handle instead.
does the motor turn without stopping?
if it doesn't you have a dead phase
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km
both times my IGBT failed internally, this happened
easy enough to check for
use a multimeter in diode setting
between each phase and positive/negative you should read 0.35v (make sure to disconnect the battery first!)
phaseA Phase B PhaseC
Positive 0.35v 0.35v 0.35v
negative 0.35v 0.35v 0.35v
phase A infinite infinite infinite
phase B infinite infinite infinite
phase C infinite infinite infinite
if the IGBT is ok, it will read as above
if it does not, you have found your problem
Daily Ride:
2007 Vectrix, modified with 42 x Thundersky 60Ah in July 2010. Done 194'000km