Vectrix Fuses

This document contains a table of possible alternative replacement fuses:

http://www.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/7a24afee-a2d6-45b9-8017-20d970806e06.pdf

This is a link to current characteristic curves for one of the alternative fuses, a Bussman FWX fuse:

http://www.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/a435785e-651f-49ad-9eb8-26f0483e36ef.pdf

What does it all mean and how does it relate to the maximum allowable inrush current?

They replaced mine with a Cooper Bussmann FWX-200A high-speed fuse, which is rated at 200 amps. You can order them from Grainger Industrial Supply (part #4XF01) for $61.45 USD.

This is very interesting. Do you know if this was officially sanctioned by Vectrix?

I'm back on the road!! Thanks David, Mik, X-Vectrix, et al; literally could NOT HAVE ACCOMPLISHED WITHOUT THIS FORUM! Finished replacing original 125 Amp Littlefuse with Bussmann 200 Amp per this thread today. Price is still $61.45 at WW Grainger in US. (December '09) Very lucky, my local store had ONE left in stock yesterday. Mik, your battery and Controller pictures were invaluable. Big thank you! My lovely and understanding wife, Deborah (who lets me park and charge in the cool living room during our ridiculously hot Summers) helped me pull and then replace the rear battery assembly. Definitely a TWO-PERSON job. Again Mik, your pictures showing the 47kg (103 pound) weight of the rear pack allowed me to know ahead of time NOT to attempt myself. Could have been a disaster otherwise.

Yes - one MUST remove the rear pack to get proper access to the Controller for removal/replacement of the main fuse. (Yes Mik - a quick ohm meter check confirmed original 125A was blown) BTW - I discovered by noticing the indent/bend of the perforated Controller Cover that Vectrix assembler had dropped the spacer on one of the three screws...found at the bottom of Controller cover. (Re-assembled properly)

I used an 11-Watt (US) globe 120 VAC for ICL, and it worked perfectly. Wearing decent rubber gloves, I was able to do at NEG terminal with Anderson already connected. 11-Watt lit up, cycled key to on - then off, 11-Watt went gradually dark. I was able to get an alligator clip (for ICL globe) to stay on the NEG female thread on final battery connection as I held the (NEG) spade lug on top and slid over center while simultaneously removing "gator" clip from ICL. No sparks. Tightened lug while wearing gloves - done!

When I turned the key ON the 17-segment battery indicator on dash was clear (zero). So I just took for local ride until RED battery light came on several times, and I could only ride up to about 40kmh (25mph). Got back home to garage, plugged in. Charger mode showing 124 VDC. Now (about 40 min into charge) seeing three bars and 139V at 23˚C on display.

Will keep you posted.

If I can have the latitude for a bit of commentary: seeing the main parts and batteries while replacing the main fuse, as long as us owners can get parts, especially the Charge and Motor Controller boards, should they fail, I can foresee NO PROBLEM to stay on the road. Ha...could easily put in application for Vectrix repair tech. with my experience this week :-)

Glen O'
Arizona, USA

Very interesting detail.

Eyeinthesky reported the same, the ICL globe would just stay on indefinitely until the key was turned on and off, then it would go out. (That was after he caused a big spark and a pop not using an ICL.)

I do not understand it and it makes me wonder where that current goes when the light stays on...it cannot be the capacitors, they would have to fill up.

Is is possible for an IGBT to be stuck in "closed" position (or whatever the proper equivalent term might be)?

Could that be what causes the "fuse failure with POP-sound"? Or what is it......