Problem with Brushless Etek...
Hello again!!
I wanna say thanks to everyone for your help with the "Magura Throttle" question I posted recently. I managed to get the motor running and the throttle does work. I do however have a new question. I immediately noticed after hooking everything up to the bike that something was making a funny noise whenever I turned the throttle; sort of like someone dragging a stick along an iron fence or like what a baseball card sounds like against a bicycle spoke but much deeper. I know that’s an odd description but I can’t think of any other way to put it. I also noticed that when I lowered the bike onto the ground and sat on it, it didn’t have enough power to move me. Now I’m not exactly a big guy and the bike is pretty streamlined which made this lack of movement seem kind of odd. I haven't fully charged the batteries up since recieving them though which may be the reason for the power issue. Anyways, I thought that perhaps it had something to do with the chain or something rubbing or vibrating against the frame of the bike so I removed the sprocket from the motor. To my unfortunate surprise, I found that the exact same noise was still present. I’ve had this motor for roughly 10 or 11 months (I bought it from Electricross out of California) but until now I hadn’t had enough equipment to be able to test the thing out. Has any body else heard of this issue or have any suggestions? I don’t wanna start emailing Electricross until I’m sure that I’ve done the proper troubleshooting but I’m pretty sure that I’ve programmed the controller correctly. Here are the specs for the bike setup: 48 volt brushless Etek motor, 200 amp 48 volt KBL48201 Kelly controller, the Magura throttle, 48 volt 300 amp max Contact Industries contactor, 4 12 volt sealed deep cycle MK Powered batteries, and a 200 amp ANL fuse. If anyone’s got any suggestions, let me know. Thanks.
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Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
Your problems seem to be pretty consistent with either mismatched hall sensor connectors. That or two dead hall sensors, which may have be brought on by mismatched hall sensors.
Use the controller to power them up, and get a voltmeter on the signal legs. They should toggle on and off when you spin the axle by hand.
The author of this post isn't responsible for any injury, disability or dismemberment, death, financial loss, illness, addiction, hereditary disease, or any other undesirable consequence or general misfortune resulting from use of the "information" contai
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
While I appreciate your suggestion, I'm not sure if I fully understand it. To help you better understand where I'm coming from, I've included in this response an adjusted wiring diagram based on the original Kelly manual one that I've customized with Photoshop to reflect my specific project. If you or anyone else would like to look over it to see if I've made any errors or mis-wired anything then that would be great. I'll also continue to poke around at my existing wiring and try to read up on the hall sensors. Thanks.
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
Here's a little tutorial from the ES. It's sort of a guess-and-check method, but you don't have to worry about checking the outputs of the hall sensors.
The author of this post isn't responsible for any injury, disability or dismemberment, death, financial loss, illness, addiction, hereditary disease, or any other undesirable consequence or general misfortune resulting from use of the "information" contai
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
Great tutorial. That will no doubtedly come in handy sooner than later. Probably sooner.
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
Thanks for the "Endless Sphere" link. That was great and exactly what I needed. It always helps to know what's actually going on inside. Again, thanks a lot:) **Anyone who hasn't already should check out that tutorial link above, very good pix and very helpful.**
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
So, I think I've figured this whole thing out with the help of the tutorial. I had to switch some wires around: pin 11 goes to the "A" hall sensor wire on the motor connector, pin 13 goes to the "B" hall sensor wire, and pin 12 goes to the "C" hall sensor wire. I left the "D" and "E" wires in the same place. This made the motor run much faster and more smoothly. It also eliminated the rattling, clicking sound that came from the motor even when the sprocket was removed; the one that I used to think was from the chain. Now I'd still recomend that other people perform their own tests to make sure this new wiring setup works with their specific project. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't go holding me responsible if you start swaping wires around and then your motor blows up:) However, I am now able to ride my bike across my workshop without any trouble and it doesn't seem to reset the controller like it did before. Thanks again for the tutorial. VERY, VERY helpful!
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
Just incase anyone wanted to take a look for their own project or just out of curiosity, here's my final (well, final so far...whatever that means) wiring chart for the Brushless Mars motor/Magura/Kelly KBL48201 motor controller electric motorcycle setup with my own adjustments and corrections. If anyone would like a larger or more detailed copy, or any of my other notes, just let me know. This final wiring set up has led to a working electric motorcycle (WHOOOOO YEAHHH WHOOOOOOO!!!) so you can trust them at least that far. Thanks for everyones input and advice!!
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
Can you let me know how your power setup is working,
I am starting an electric dirt bike project and considering the same motor/controller
you are using, But i will be using 50.4v lipo batteries from my rc electric planes
(12s4p) 40 ah
thank you
Kevin
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
Sure, anything I can do to help. What exactly were you wanting to know in reference to the power setup? If you mean "do I like my four heavy, bulky, SLA batteries that each weigh in at around 30 pounds and barely fit on the frame?........" I would have to say, that I do not:D Surprise, Surprise, right? I'd much, MUCH rather have the batteries you have. My batteries do work though (however, I'll soon be getting new ones since mine will no longer hold more than a 70% charge due to my inability to understand the magic of a "battery trickle charger/maintainer" soon enough,) which means that your lipo batteries should be great, especially with 40 amp hours to play around with. And for the money, the controller/motor/throttle that I have works great; you might wanna spring for the 250 amp Kelly controller or even the 300 amp though. And according to the Kelly website, the KBL 48 volt controllers should all be able to handle up to 60 volts so your 50.4 volts should be great.
Incase you were interested in the following info and haven't purchased any of those parts yet, here are a few good places to get package deals with everything but the bike frame and batteries (motor/controller/throttle/ect.) or individual parts for that matter: http://www.electricmotorsport.com/ http://www.electricvehiclesusa.com/
http://www.kellycontroller.com/
If this didn't answer your question, then just let me know and good luck.
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
Thanks very much for your help! I guess what I really wanted to know is does the mars brushless have some grunt off the line?
and in case I miised it what is your gear ratio setup?
front tooth, rear sprocket and rear tire size, top spped?
thanks much I will post my project soon.
Kevin
Re: Problem with Brushless Etek...
This post is exactly what I need to wire my motor up... However, do you know what color wires are the GND, A, B, C and 5V from the motor? Or where I can find this out?? I know you posted this a long time ago but if you can help me that would be great. Thanks!