Hi All,
I'm trying to fix up an XM-3100 so a friend's son can use it to get to college and back this coming semester. The scoot was apparently purchased by my buddy's neighbor, who never actually used it, and given to him a year or so later. As far as I know, it's never been ridden at all. All the original plastic covering the lights is still there, baked on from a year in the sun.
I charged it up, which seems to have gone fine, although I know I won't be able to tell how well the batteries will hold a charge until I get it running.
Initially, I wasn't seeing 12V power then the key was on, so I replaced the DC-DC regulator. That sorted out the lights and such, but I'm still not able to make it go.
The brake safety switches are a corroded mess, so I disconnected them and the kickstand safety switch for the time being. I tried the wires from the brake & kickstand safety switches jumpered and open to try to bypass them, but no joy. Anyone know which will allow me to bypass them temporarily? I'll be fixing and reconnecting them when it's going - don't want to kill my buddy's son!
Can anyone advice me as to the next troubleshooting steps? I've never worked on an EV before, so I'm fumbling in the dark here...
On the plus side, the brakes work great, tires & suspension are in fine condition, and I've gone through and made sure everything is attached to the bike properly, which it most certainly was not when I first got it.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Can the bike go forward without the DC-DC converter? When the brakes are applied some 12 volts get put back in controller to kill controller. That way the bike won't waste power going forward and stopping at same time. I went thru a lot of Converters because of corrosion in unit and connectors. I only went through 4 speed controllers because it fills up with water. All I can say is follow the wiring diagram on line or owners manual. Front brake switch on mine now is disconnected for brake light and controller. It always stayed on killing the bike for going forward. XM-3000 and XM-3100 are similar except 3100 is high speed only not two speed. I killed battery pack by not charging mine too but it recovered some what now. It came back in one week of riding. If the controller works it can work on center stand with side-stand up to troubleshoot bike. I forget what colors are what on 12 volt but a separate 12 volt battery can run the lights if DC-DC is bad. Negative is common. I have a post on V about that. You do know circuit breaker is on side through side hole in seat compartment? It will charge in off position but won't go unless on.
KB1UKU
Hey Rusty,
Thanks for the reply. The bike won't go forward without the DC-DC converter - I had assumed it was necessary for the throttle. The circuit breaker under the seat is in the on position.
What is the speed controller? I'm coming from the motorcycle world, so this is all new to me...
I've looked at the wiring diagram - the trouble I'm having conceptually is with the controller - the big black box on the side. I understand what it does, but I don't know how exactly it takes its inputs - for instance, if the throttle is a potentiometer or what...
-Josh
I ride my XM-3100 and 3000 without the DC-DC converter so it isn't needed to test riding it. The speed controller is the thing on left hand side under seat out in the RAIN. Some of the wires include three larger ten AWG wires going to AC hub motor otherwise known as a brushless DC motor. The throttle assembly is HALL effect and has three small wires that go to motor controller. I guess you can call it a variable frequency drive unit but controller is good. The throttle assembly not a potentiometer like used on some EVs. I just read your profile and saw you are in Bean town also. I now take out the DC-DC to keep it dry for it fails so fast. When I get some time I'll mount it behind HL assy where it is dry or at least DRYER than under floor cutout.
KB1UKU
Cool man thanks for the clarification. I took the controller apart and it didn't look like it had suffered from any water getting in there, although that's by no means definitive. I sealed it back up with rtv when I was done, because it does seem like the position on the bike is less than ideal.
Do you know if there's a way to test it to lock down that it is indeed the problem?
-Josh