Electric vehicle controllers and control systems

What are the chances of a controller failing both the e-brake and throttle cicuits at the same time causing a run away vehicle?

I posted about it in another forum so here is that link.cut off switchMy exact concerns are for a bicycle but it applies to all I imagine. And, lest not forget the Toyota Prius!

I would like to know your thoughts & experiences with this controller---on the face of it I admit I am attracted to it---not only for the looks but for the functions.

Golden Motor Controller

I have tried to put a link up without success: The url is: www://goldenmotor.com It is worth going to Golden to read the specs on this thing.

In that as far as I know Cyclone does not produce a cruise control and Crystalyte does I would like to mary the two for my 650 watt 24 V e-trike.
I have scant information now but will put up what I do have at the moment. I can tell you that the Crystalyte cruise control works off the Hall Effect, ties into the e-brakes(stops), & I think it is a 5-pin connector with four pins used. This link gives some information.

My folks have a stock 48v mini van (Miles ZX40) we have upgraded the battery pack to a new old set of 6v Greensavers.

They perform OK (capacity wise) but seem to not output amps at a high voltage for very long which affects the top speed quite quickly once we burn of the initial charge.

I am curious there were several individuals running Curtis 1204 48v controllers with 60v (one was in a Miles identical to mine) However his voltage was generally at or below 60v due to the type/condition of the batteries he used.

I was just reading this post, and it sparked a question:

http://visforvoltage.org/forum/8480-bmc-400w600w-24v-motor-uspd-lashout-currie-synergy-cycles

Do some motors require an external controller, AND have an internal controller? What do each of them do? What is this person referring to when they say "internal controller". I am buying a BMC setup, and I was under the impression that the motor and controller were separate pieces of equipment.

I have a Schwinn Stealth 1000 scooter that is usually powered by 3 12V 10Ah batteries in series with a 36V 30 amp controller. I would like to hook up 2 12V 50Ah batteries in series on this controller to power the scooter. Would this work or immediately fry the controller?

Thanks

Is it possible to run an electric motor without a controller? Perhaps through the use of a relay? What would the implications of this be?

Thank you!

Hi,

So recently I decided to try to shunt the controller of my Giobike so I could get some extra power. I went out and bought all the tools and stuff necessary to do the job based on this site http://www.giobikes.com/Blogs/electric-scooters/E-Scooter-Controller-Directions/ and http://visforvoltage.org/forum/3990-xb600-quotshunt-modquot-instructions.

I've been using powerpole connectors for years and love them. But I just had an experience that has me questioning them.

My bicycle had developed an issue where the power would cut out while riding. I finally worked out that it was a powerpole connector that didn't connect very tightly. I could hold it in my hand (while riding) and manipulate it and hear clicks as the connection came and went, and the power to the motor would come and go with the clicks. Obviously something had happened to the innards of this connector such that it didn't make a reliable connection.

Hi, I have been into scoots for awhile now and need a little help with wiring direct my lights and horn to a 12v 7ah battery I have fried 2 converters and I have a 60v battery system. One converter worked ok from EVParts until I added the other battery, just wasn't thinking 13.8v was only thinking 12v x 5=60. Then ordered a so called 72v converter from Thunderstruck and when I pulled the sticker back it had read the same as the 1st one I fried 30-60, but was lasered printed w/ 72v?; called and asked about it and was told don't worry it will work.