Hello Everyone,
I just purchased a 750 watt 48v Taizhou Moto DM-70. I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on the bike? It seems fine to me.
I also have a few questions about lead acid batteries; Is it better to run the battery almost all the way down before charging or should I always put it on the charge after I'm done riding?
And, my charger has an indicator light that is supposed to turn green when the batter is fully charged but it never turned green. I charged it for maybe 8 hours and the gauge on the bike went to full but the charger light never turned green. Could anyone tell me why that is happening? (the battery was pretty drained by time I made it home from the dealer)
Thanks,
Will
P.S.
Riding 15 miles home from the dealer in January in Michigan makes for a pretty cold experience.
It's best to NEVER run the batts all the way down. EVER. NO battery chemistry benefits by this.
Charger problems? Hmm. Check all the batteries with a multimeter. They should be around 13V fully charged. If they aren't, it's probably the charger. If not, you might need new batteries.
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I agree with this 100%. I've heard two groups of people claim otherwise. Emax used to claim that silicone batteries they used benefited from deep discharge, but that was just cluelessness talking. There is another camp that claims that charging itself can reduce battery life. This is true to some extent, much like wearing clothes wears them out, but this is due mostly to bad chargers or over-charging. There is no good reason to leave the batteries on the charger much longer than it takes to give them a full charge.
So, charge as often as possible, but don't leave them connected to the charger for days at a time.
"we must be the change we wish to see in the world"
This is odd. When you unplug the charger from the batteries, than does the light turn green? Can you measure the open circuit voltage of the charger and the batteries?
It is possible that one of the batteries is defective. I've known new batteries to sometimes continue to take a charge and heat up while not coming up in voltage like a normal battery should.
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Pic from http://www.electri
Thanks for all the posts guys. I am getting a multimeter today so hopefully I'll be getting to the bottom of this soon.
When I plug the charger into the wall and not the scooter the light turns green. And, there is a fan in the charger that does come on when it's plugged in.
The charger does not have a yellow light.
I do not know the make and model of the battery just yet but I'll know later on today when i take it apart to check them with the meter.
Thanks,
Will
Yep, Larry of E-max USA would say the silicone battery pack should be treated like a fuel tank - you don't have to charge it until it is near "E". (NOT!)
I wonder how he faired with recovering his big losses from e-max - or the fate of his Austin Texas store Texas E-rider. All I can find on google is this case on the docket of the Texas Western District Federal Court - but he is suing Oxygen, not e-max.
Alert!
This is exactly what happened to my EMAX's battery pack, one of the blocks is out of balance and the charger does not get the signal that a balanced, full charge has occured.
I ended up putting the charger on a household timer and allowed only for one full 4 hour block of charge, with an occasional 2 hour top-off after about 5-6 hours at the earliest.
Within 2 weeks I got green lights again.
Whether you have an E-Bike or E-Scoot, The most affordable starter pack is the old reliable (and easily re-cycled) Lead/Acids.
If you decide to use expensive large format NiCD's (from Saft?) you should drain them 90% once a week to prevent crystal build-up leading to reduced capacity.
Whether you are using lead in a vehicle or an RE off-grid cabin battery pack (otherpower.com), draining the battery the least amount is the best. Past 50% is very bad, using only 20-30% before re-charging is much better. Using only half the capacity (by buying twice the size) you may get 4 times the life.
You might carry a small pack charger (48 volts?) for use at work, and then use individual 12/24V chargers at home that are sophisticated BMS's that perform all the functions that keep a battery healthy.
I recommend that everyone should use a $20 power timer because of that "once a year" incident when the charger sticks "ON" and overcharges the Lead, NiCD, NiMH, or Lith pack, leading to an early and expensive death. If you only need a two-hour charge, cut the power to the charger at two hours.
http://www.specialty-lights.com/10975.html
When you are putting a charge through the plates of a lead/acid battery, the entire time the charge flow is converting the chemistry backwards, the clean part of the plates are "ionizing" and as a result they are eroding. Deep-cycle batteries have thick plates to make them last longer. When the plates begin getting holes in them, there is less plate surface area, resulting in less voltage and range.